AFA 4XXX
African American Studies Program – The University of Florida
Dr. Patricia Hilliard-Nunn
Office Location: 211 Walker Hall
Office Hours: Tuesdays Noon-2PMOffice Phone: 352-392-5726
Other Times By Appointmente-mail:
COURSE GOAL: The goal of this course is to critically examine the history, sociology and politics of African Americans and hair texture and design.
COURSE DESCRIPTION: The ethnic hair care industry is approximately 1.5 to 2 billion dollar industry in the United States and Black hair care products make up the largest portion of this market. The economics of Black hair is just part of the saga of the Black hair politics, long a source of discourse among scientists, writers, scholars, poets, filmmakers, artists, business owners and regular people.
There is no single kind of “Black Hair,” yet most African descended people regardless of class, age, nationality, gender, sexuality, have experienced distinct and diverse cultural experiences as a direct result of having prototypical “tightly curled” or kinky hair. African and African descended people have an old and intimate relation to the care and styling of hair. From ancient times, during enslavement, and during the present, black hair has often had its own meaning. Black hair styles have been imitated and simultaneously scorned in a world where European standards of beauty have been elevated internationally via popular culture and the mass media. Conversely, African phenotypes (i.e. tightly curled hair, dark skin, thick lips, etc.) are often devalued. Manifestations of contemporary stereotypes about Black hair are seen when people are judged based on hair texture, length, color and style. These stereotypes have had real consequences for the way that many African Americans and others have interacted in the world.
The “Black Hair Politics” course provides a comprehensive interdisciplinary examination of the history, sociology, psychology and economics of the phenotypically Black hair. Students will explore the textures, styles and meanings of Black hair as they relate to identity and power in society. Students will also explore the invention and modification of creative techniques and products made for grooming and for the artistic, social and political expression of Black hair throughout history. Like specific music, dance, cooking and other forms of Black cultural production, Black hair design and care has an economic component that students will explore. Finally, students will examine the relationship between Black hair and the impact of European cultural hegemony and the role of the mass media in cultural socialization. Classes will consist of lectures, discussions, film screenings, group presentations, and individual presentations, exercises, quizzes.
COURSE OBJECTIVES: Students will be able to:
1) Describe the ancient African origins of and practices in Black hair care, products and some of the individuals and institutions that influenced trends in the American industry,
2) Demonstrate an understanding of basic concepts (i.e. world view, culture, stereotype, lookism, cultural hegemony, conflict theory, symbolic interactionism, etc.) and describe their utility in discussing the politics of black hair,
3) Identify and explain some of the theories and works of scientists, scholars, poets, filmmakers and authors who specifically address the politics of “Black Hair” in their work,
4) Name and discuss the basic Black hairstyles (“natural,” permed, braided, dreaded, weaves, extensions, Afros, twists, knots, etc.) and their social and political meanings and challenges,
5) Outline the way that Black Hair has influenced and been influenced by the mass media in American culture,
6) Explain how identity, cultural dependency and self-concept relate to personal hair care regiments and hairstyle choices,
7) Describe the basic elements (manufacturing, distribution, licensing, trade shows) of the Black Hair care industry,
8) Identify some of the controversies surrounding natural hairstyles choices and sociological effects (employment. Relationships, law),
9) Draw a connection between physical and mental health and some black hairstyling practices,
10) Articulate a theoretically and historically informed account of their experience(s), (i.e. evolution, challenges, political awareness) with hair and
11) Think critically about the multiple meanings of Black hair.
ATTENDANCE POLICY:
Attendance is based on you being on time, signing the roll sheet, and being prepared and staying for the entire class. It is assumed that enrollment in the class means that there are no conflicts with other obligations (work, travel, meetings, etc.) during class time. If you miss two classes, without a written medical excuse or documentation for other acceptable reasons for excused absence according to UF policy, you should consider dropping the course. Poor attendance and tardiness will affect your final grade. If you are over 15 minutes late for two classes meetings, you will earn one full absence. No further admonishments will be made. In the case of an official university excuse or a documented medical emergency provide me with a written letter and/or medical excuse on a physician’s official letterhead or official university letterhead that includes the time and date of your care or other business upon your return to class. Simply telling me that you’ll be absent does not automatically become an “excused absence.” The official attendance policy for the University of Florida may be found at
MAKE UP POLICY: All assignments are known in advance; therefore, permission to hand in an assignment late or to make up and exam is only granted for exceptional circumstances, or in the case of a documented excused absence.
Quiz/Test/Exam: Students with documented official university or medical excuses may take a make up quiz. The professor must be notified before or immediately after the absence and the quiz must be scheduled on the first day that the student returns to campus. Students who do not provide documentation and reschedule the quiz will not be given a make up.
Assignments: Students with valid official university or documented medical excuses be allowed to turn in assignments within one day of her/his return to campus without penalty. The assignment will be considered late and reduced one letter grade for each day the assignment is not turned in beginning with the due date if the proper documentation is not provided.
ACCOMMODATIONS FOR STUDENTS WITH DISABILITIES:
In compliance with the University of Florida’s policy and equal access laws, I am available to discuss appropriate academic accommodations that may be required for students with disabilities. Requests for academic accommodations are to be made during the first three weeks of the semester, except for unusual circumstances, so arrangements can be made. Students are encouraged to register with Student Disability Services to verify their eligibility for appropriate accommodations. The Disability Resource Center in the Dean of Students Office provides information and support regarding accommodations for students with disabilities. More information may be found here:
STATEMENT REGARDING HARASSMENT:
UF provides an educational and working environment that is free from sex discrimination and sexual harassment for its students, staff, and faculty. To learn more about this policy, visit:
UNIVERSITY CODE OF HONOR:
Each student in this course is expected to abide by the University of Florida’s Student Honor Code and Code of Conduct. Any work submitted by a student in this course for academic credit will be the student's own work. Students suspected of academic dishonesty or of violating the Honor Code will be reported to the Dean of Students Office. To learn more about the UF policy regarding Academic Honesty, please visit:
COUNSELING ASSISTANCE:
Students who may experience stress related personal issues are encourages to visit the University of Florida Counseling Center at 301 Peabody Hall or the Student Mental Health Services which is located on the 2nd floor of the Student Health Care Center in the Infirmary. University Counseling Center, 301 Peabody Hall, 392-1575, Student Mental Health Services, Rm. 245 Student Health Care Center, 392-1171,
REQUIREMENTS AND EVALUATION:
1.CLASS ATTENDANCE & PARTICIPATION (10%):
Attendance will be based on you arriving at class on time, signing the class roll sheet, and remaining for the entire class. Participation means that you have completed your readings and/or assignments on time and are able to contribute to the class discussions. Students will lead a discussion of the readings with, at least, one other student one time during the semester (SEE HANDOUT). Any information and/or changes that are announced in class are YOUR responsibility, whether you attended class or not. Unexcused absences and tardiness will decrease your grade for participation. If you must miss class, for any reason, on a day that you are due to present or turn in an assignment, you must turn in your work ahead of time. Permission to hand in an assignment late is only granted for exceptional circumstances or those that are considered excused absences according to UF policy. No eatingor drinking in class. No cell phones, pagers, laptops or other electronic devices may be used in class. Let me know if you have ANY questions.
2.QUIZZES (#1 and #2) ______(20%):
Based on class readings, discussions, presentations, lectures and media shared in class. They will consist of multiple choice, true/false, short answer and short (essay) answer items.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR ESSAYS
All four written assignments must meet the minimum word count, not including references. Each essay should include references with no fewer than 6 sources. Four must be from books and/or scholarly journals which address the subject matter. Quotations should be kept to a minimum and should only be used if they help to move your thesis forward. Be sure to incorporate the terms, concepts and theories discussed in class. See the sections on “presentation of work” and “Evaluation of All Class Activities and Assignments is Based On” for further details.
3.GENERAL BLACK “HAIRTORY” ESSAY (Due: ) (15%):
Research and write and 800 word essay about a specific aspect of the history of Black hair that interests you. Your essay may address the invention of an invention, a product or styling practice, the evolution of a particular hair style, a business, a hair show, an aspect of the life of a key person in the Black Hair care industry, etc. The focus of this essay is HISTORY.
4.PERSONAL “HAIRSTORY” ESSAY (Due ) (15%):
Write an 800 word essay about your personal relationship (grooming, relationship, preferred styles, etc.) with hair. Incorporate a discussion about your early lessons about the meaning of hair, how you view the hair of others and what, if any import you placed on hair. Be sure to include information about the role that mass media socialization may have played in your experience and the shaping of your hair identity.
5.INDIVIDUALESSAY and GROUP PRESENTATION ON BLACK HAIR ______(20%):
Groups will be assigned to select a topic relevant to the politics and of Black Hair. Groups will coordinate their research on the topic so that each group member will contribute a meaningful element to a solid topic. The group will present their findings in a class presentation. Note: Each group member must prepare an INDIVIDUAL 800 Word RESARCH PAPER. The group will also collectively present their findings during class via Power Point, DVD, skit, or audio production to the class. (See the Handout for more information) (Due: Different Group dates)
6.RESEARCH PAPER ABOUT BLACK HAIR (Due ) ______(20%):
Research and write a 1600 word paper which addresses an aspect of Black Hair that interests you. Your paper must include a clear argument of the relevance to the issues that we have read about and discussed in class. The essay may be, but is not limited to, a critical exploration, a theoretically-oriented thought based analysis or a historical researched based examination of Black hair. You research may address the economics of Black Hair, the Politics of Black hair on the job, natural hair issues, a review Black Hair styles during a particular period in history, or the like. A few sample title examples are: Natural Hair and Employment, Black Hair in Movies, The History and Evolution of Weaves, Hair and Identity Among Black Girls, Black Hair Design in Cartoons, Hair and Identity Formation Among African Americans. Your topic must be preapproved by XXXXX.
REQUIREMENTS & EVALUATION AT A GLANCE ______%:
1.Attendance & Participation10%
Lead Group Discussion Questions
2.Quiz #1 & Quiz #220%
3.General Black “Hairstory” Essay #1 1800 words15%
4.Personal “Hairstory” Essay #2 800 words1/2615%
5.Essay & Group Presentation Essay #3 800 words3/120%
6.Research Paper #4 1600 words4/1920% TOTAL 100%
Your Grade Will Be Based On The Following Scale: 93-100=A, 90-92=A-, 87-89=B+, 83-86=B, 80-82=B-, 77-79=C+, 73-76=C, 70-72=C-, 67-69=D+, 63-66=D, 60-62=D-, 57-59E+, 57 and below = E.
Please note that a C- is not a satisfactory grade for major / minor or gen ed / Writing courses.
PRESENTATION OF WORK:
All assignments must be typed, double-spaced using Times New Roman 12 point font in MS Word. You must use a standard one-inch margin - no bold-faced fonts. Use the style APA, MLA or Chicago that is used in your academic discipline. All pages should be numbered and stapled. Do not use a cover sheet. Include the identifying information in the upper right hand corner, single-spaced. UF has an online writing assistance site at . Work will be considered late and graded down one letter grade after the beginning of class on the due date unless documentation for an excused absence according to UF policy is provided. Work will continue to be reduced a letter grade for each additional day it is late (see the make up work section for more details). Finally, DO NOT e-mail or fax papers unless I ask you to.
REQUIRED COURSE TEXTS:
1. Byrd, Ayana and Lori Tharps. (2002). Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. NY, NY: St. Martin’s Press.
2. Morrow, Willie, L. (1973). 400 Years Without a Comb: The Untold Story. San Diego: CA: California Curl.
3. COURSE READING PACKET: The articles are due on the day that they appear on outline.
THE POLITICS OF BLACK HAIR - WEEKLY COURSE OUTLINE
WEEK 1 - COURSE OVERVIEW, WHAT ARE BLACK HAIR POLITICS?, STEREOTYPES
READINGS: Chapter 1 in Byrd and Tharps – Black Hair in Bondage: 1400-1899
Morrow Pages 1-54.
TOPICS:
COURSE OVERVIEW
BLACK HAIR POLITICS?
BLACK HAIR IN AFRICA
BLACK PHENOTYPES & CULTURE
Hair Piece: A Film For Nappy Headed People (1985)Ayoka Chenzira VIDEO
Ethnic Notions (1986) Marlon Riggs VIDEO
A Question of Color (1989) by Kathe Sandler VIDEO
WEEK 2THE LANGUAGE OF BLACK HAIR HISTORY
READINGS: Chapter 2 in Byrd and Tharps -No Excuse for Nappy: 1900-1964
Morrow pp. 55-108
Craig, Maxine. (1997). “The Decline and Fall of the Conk; or, How to Read a Process.” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture 1.4 (1997): 399-419.
TOPICS:
THE ELEMENTS OF BLACK HAIR (Length, Texture , Color, Style)
400 YEARS WITHOUT A COMB
BLACK HAIR IN THE 1960s-2000s
400 Years Without a Comb: The History of African Hair in America VIDEO
The Power of Black Hair YOU TUBE VIDEO
WEEK 3BLACK HAIR AND SOCIALIZATION
DUE: ESSAY #1
READING: de Casanova, Erynn Masi. (2004). No ugly women: Concepts of race and beauty among adolescent women in Ecuador. Gender & Society 18 (3): 287-308.
TOPICS:
BRADING AS A SOCIALIZATION RITUAL / HAIR RITES OF PASSAGE
BONDING & BLACK STORYTELLING SPACES
BLACK CHILDREN AND HAIR (FAMLIES, DOLLS & MEDIA)
BLACK HAIR AND “BEAUTY”
Sesame Street' s "I Love My Hair" VIDEO
Whip My Hair by Willow Smith MUSIC VIDEO
A Girl Like Me by Keri Davis VIDEO
WEEK 4THE PSYCHOLOGY AND SOCIOLOGY OF BLACK HAIR
READING:
Ashe, D. Bertram. (Winter, 1995). "Why don't he Like My Hair?": Constructing African-American Standards of Beauty in Toni Morrison's Song of Solomon and Zora Neale Hurston's Their Eyes were Watching God. African American Review. (29)4 pp. 579- 592)
Hall, Ronald. "Hair: the Straight and Nappy of it All," The Color Complex: The Politics of Skin Color Among African Americans (New York and London: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1992), 81-93.
TOPICS:
BLACK HAIR, CULTURAL HEGEMONY AND LOOKISM
HAIR AND RELATIONSHIPS
WEEK 5THE MASS MEDIA SOCIALIZATION AND BLACK HAIR
DUE: Quiz #1
READING:
Hall, Stuart. (1995). "The Whites of their Eyes: Racist Ideologies and the Media," Gender, Race and Class in Media, 89-93.
Kobena Mercer, "Black Hair/Style Politics," from Welcome to the Jungle: New Positions in Cultural Studies, pp. 97-12
TOPICS:
MASS MEDIA – (Television, TV, Magazines) Hair Commercials
COMMERCIALS
HIP HOP AND HAIR
CONFLICT THEORY
Jean Kilbourne, Killing Us Softly: Advertising's Image of Women. USA, 2000 (34 min.)
The Power of Black Women's Hairby Akilah Chopfied
WEEK 6BLACK HAIR IN AMERICAN CULTURE, INFLUENCE/REPRESENTATION
DUE: ESSAY #2
READING:
Tate, S. (2007). Black beauty: Shade, hair and anti-racist aesthetics. Ethnic and Racial Studies, (30)2, 300-319.
Weitz, Rose. (Oct, 2001). Women and Their Hair: Seeking Power through Resistance and Accommodation. Gender and Society, (15) 5 pp. 667-686.
TOPICS:
HOLLYWOOD AND INDEPENDENT REPRESEANTATIONS
REPRESENTATIONS IN AFRICAN AMERICAN LITERATURE
School Daze (1988) by Spike Lee VIDEO (Excerpt)
WEEK 7THE POLITICS OF BLACK HAIR DESIGN
READING DUE: Chapter 3 in Byrd and Tharps – Revolutionary Roots: Naturals, Afros, and the ...
Chapter 5 in Byrd and Tharps - Politically Incorrect: Black Hair’s New Attitude...
Morrow pp. 182-213.
Kelley, Robin D. G. (1997). “Nap Time: Historicizing the Afro.” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture. (1)4, 339-52.
TOPICS:
GENDER AND HAIR
THE MEANING OF NATURAL HAIR (DREADS, BRAIDS & TWISTS)
FIXED HAIR” “PERMANENTS
THE ARTIFICIAL HAIR EXPLOSION
BLACK HAIR AND EMPLOYMENT
HAIR DISCRIMINATION LAWSUITS