A Beginner’s Introduction to Fly Rods

An excerpt from FFF’s Booklet, Introduction to fly fishing by Judy Lehmberg

The fly rod is usually the most expensive part of the fly fishers outfit and therefore should be chosen carefully. Fly rods are labeled to correspond to the line, so that if you have a 6 weight rod you need a six weight line. The major differences in rods are length, stiffness and composition. Fly rods may be purchased in lengths from about 5 1/2 foot trout rods to 16 foot, two-handed salmon rods.

The longer the rod, the more energy is required to cast it, but the easier it is to control the line. Stiffness on the other hand, is a function of the rod's thickness, the material from which it is made and its taper. Of the various rod materials, graphite is the stiffest; that is, it has the greatest modulus of elasticity, whereas bamboo, and then fiberglass, are less stiff. The way a rod is tapered, that is, the transition from a thick butt to a thin tip, will determine its action.

Action is rather difficult to define, but it is obvious when you cast several different rods that some are fairly soft and flexible or slow action and some are stiffer and therefore faster action. All of these factors need to be considered when buying a rod, but the most important of these is probably material. Fiberglass, bamboo and graphite are the most commonly used materials.

Fiberglass is the cheapest and the least desirable of the three. They are heavy for their size, but have great strength and will tolerate much abuse. A fiberglass rod of a certain line weight and length will weigh about two to three times that of a comparable graphite rod and is therefore not as desirable.

When you consider that you can cast a fly rod several thousand times on a long day, the difference of an ounce or two can be a big factor. Of course, if you have an old fiberglass rod you found abandoned in your parent's garage, go ahead and use it. Save your money until you are more experienced and know what you want. Bamboo rods are considered to be the finest form of the rod maker's art. Because building a bamboo rod is very time consuming, they are quite expensive and probably not the first rod you will want to consider. Bamboo rods are usually more flexible than graphite and therefore have a slower action. However, for some type s of fishing where a delicate presentation is necessary, bamboo cannot be beaten. Many experienced fly fishers feel the pinnacle of the sport is catching a nice spring creek trout on a small dry fly with a bamboo rod.

The most popular types of fly rods today are made of graphite. They are extremely strong for their weight and can be designed for any type of action. Although some graphite rods are fairly expensive, reasonably priced, good quality rods are available. The primary difference between a good quality and a premium quality rod is the quality of the materials for the reel seat, the handles, the guides and the finish.

Most experienced fly fishers would recommend your first rod be a medium priced graphite rod. In order to make a good choice for that first fly rod, you must first think about what kind of fishing you wish to do.

If you plan to fish primarily for trout you should probably expect to use flies from size #4 nymphs and streamers to size #20 dry flies. Because small dry flies are best handled with a three to five weight line and because large nymphs and streamers are best handled with a seven to nine weight line, a good compromise is a 6 weight line. It can be successfully used to handle both very small and very large flies.

As for rod length, a long rod is much better for that first 6 weight rod than a short one. A long rod (8 1/2 to 9 feet) makes it easier to handle your line on the water when drifting nymphs or mending dry fly casts. It is also somewhat easier to cast because it keeps the line from falling to the ground on the backcast, and away from your ears on the forward cast.

Later on, depending on the types of fishing you do most, you may want to add shorter, three to five weight rods or longer eight or nine weight rods for specialized fishing, but for now, your first rod should be an eight to nine foot, 6 weight rod.

What should I consider in buying my first fly rod?

Posted by David O'Brien on May 14, 1997

What should I consider in buying my first fly rod? This is a question that would start a general debate in most fly fishing circles. There are many opinions and it would be difficult to include all of the detailed factors to consider here. But… you should ask yourself several questions.

(1) What am I going to use the rod for? If the answer is trout and bluegill, then a different rod is recommended than if you are after tarpon and northern pike.
(2) How much money do I want to put into this purchase. A useable fly rod will seldom cost less than $140, maybe a little less if you look around. A good to excellent rod can exceed $400 very easily. This is perhaps the most important part of your fly fishing gear. A poor rod will make it harder to cast and generally reduce your pleasure overall.

If you can answer these first two questions you are on the way to making an initial decision. But there are other factors.

A recent article in Fly Tackle Dealer offers some additional insights into fly rod selection. Experts from Scott, Thomas & Thomas, Sage, Lamiglass, Diamond-Back, Winston, Loomis, Reddington, Orvis, were all interviewed, including Lefty Kreh. While there were a lot of general statements one of the designers identified some key factors: He pointed out that you want a rod that will allow you to do four things well: (1) present the fly, (2) control the fly (i.e., retrieve, mend), (3) hook the fish and (4) play/land the fish. If you are buying a rod, these criteria make good sense.

However, with all the different fishing situations that a rod may be used for, getting just the right balance among these four rod criteria could get pretty difficult. If you are casting big bass bugs and need to set the hook and drag old bucket-mouth out of the weeds, a rod to meet all four of these criteria is easy. A 7-8 wt with lots of backbone is your choice. But other factors come into play. If a rod is too heavy, it will be a burden to cast. As one of the manufacturers said, the best rod is the lightest rod possible. So that bass rod must have the backbone to fish bass, but it can't weigh a ton either.

In other situations, a great rod for presenting a fly may not be very good for hooking or landing a fish. Some fishing situations are very demanding. A rod that is delicate enough to present a #22 blue winged olive to a 20 inch Big Horn River rainbow may not have the necessary rod backbone to cast into that Montana wind, move line in that Bighorn current and play that hyperactive rainbow to the net.

So when we are thinking about a new rod, it is wise to remember that casting a long or precise line is not the only factor. We also have to think about controlling that fly, setting the hook and landing the fish as well. The best rods will do all of these well - or should. Good luck. Remember most dealers will let you try a rod, at least on the grass. Take advantage of that opportunity! (comments by Jim Abbs)

Protecting your new fly rod
From the newsletter of Snake River Cutthoats

by Harrison Hilbert formerly of Jimmy’s All Season’s Angler of Idaho Falls, ID

Fishing rods are the single most expensive investment made by today's angler. Prices range from $75 to nearly $500 for modern graphite fly rods. And they are also about the easiest to break piece of angling equipment.

The following information is offered to help anglers care for and maintain their rods and to suggest simple steps to avoid breakage.

  • Store rods in a rod sock inside a metal tube. Put the butt section in the rod sock with the handle toward the open end. The tip section should be placed in the rod sock with the tip toward the opening. That way the large handle will help protect the delicate tip section of the rod.
  • Rod and reel storage cases such as D.B. Dunn's require the same method of insertion. Keep the tip section pointing up in these cases. If you put the tip down it can jam against the bottom of the case and break.
  • Thoroughly dry rods after a day's fishing. This will prevent mildew on the rod sock and will prevent any damage to the rod's finish from water standing on the rod.
  • Use the rod only for its intended purpose and know its limitations. Light line weight rods are engineered for use with light leaders. Using heavy leaders on light rods can stress them beyond their design and function.
  • When stringing a rod, place it on a diagonal with the butt and reel on the ground. Pull the fly line through the guides. Avoid bending the tip section over to put the line through the final 2 or 3 guides and tiptop. Many rods break while being bent in this manner.
  • During the course of a day's fishing, check the ferrules to assure they are mated and haven't worked loose. A savage strike on a rod with loose ferrules may result in the breakage of one or both of the ferrules. This sort of splitting break can make the rod a total loss.
  • Ice in the guides will impede casting and prevent the line from running through the guides smoothly. Ice may cause the line to jam in the guides, especially the smaller tip section snake guides. If icing is a continuing problem, it may be necessary to briefly submerge the rod in the stream or lake. A light spraying of Pam (a non-stick griddle product) may help prevent icing in rod guides. If icing continues it may be too damn cold to fish.
  • Weighted flies and split shot can cause damage if they hit the rod during a cast. The rod may not break at that time, but the damage to the rod's fibers will cause it to weaken and break later.
  • Metal handrails on boats may damage graphite rods rested against them. If the rod is not in ase in a boat, the best idea is to case it. Other options include holding the rod upright while the arsman moves the boat to the next fishing spot or stowing the assembled rod with the tip under he line deck of a driftboat and the reel in the seat pocket. Be sure that spare oars can't roll over n the rod.
  • Drift boats were designed to fish one fly caster at a time from the downstream end. The angler should be positioned in the knee braces over the line deck while the second angler is seated in the center of the forward seat. When multiple anglers are standing and casting there is a good chance that the rods will strike each other. Take turns casting, rowing and resting—it's more enjoyable and only one hook must be watched on the back casts.
  • Don't leave any rod set up for a long period of time without taking it apart.
  • The correct way to join graphite rods is to put the tip on the butt and slide it down until it stops easily. Line up the guides and push the sections together firmly. The ferrules should fit together snugly.
  • If tree limbs are hooked from a moving boat or while wading, NEVER rear back on the rod to try to pull the fly loose. Instead, point the rod directly at the hooked limb and let the tippet break with the direct pull. Flies and tippets are far cheaper to replace than a prized rod.
  • When changing fishing locations, never carry rods inside vehicles with the tips extended through an open window.
  • Remember, any time a rod is out of its tube, it is in danger. Rigging-your rod should be the last thing you do before fishing and taking it down should be the- first thing you do when quitting.

Fly Rod Care

First (then a few times a year) lubricate the graphite ferrules by simply rubbing the paraffin stub of an old candle (do not use wax) up and down the male portion while rotating the rod. This helps the sections fit tighter without binding and eases disassembly. Always clean a rod after use. Keep the ferrules clean for one grain of sand can score the blank and lead to failure. When using a new rod in salt water, a coat of wax for added protection. Check the guide thread wraps for spaces under the guide feet normally filled with epoxy that could allow salt to get in eventually rusting the guide. Fill any spaces with thread finish.

Use mild soap and warm water, polish (bamboo rod), dry with a clean soft cloth before storing in a rod case. Clean soiled cork grips with a soft scrub brush or toothbrush, soap and water, a mild abrasive such as Soft Scrub or Comet can be used; wiping dry with paper towels. Salt water use, requires serious cleaning. Take the rod in the shower with you and concentrate on the guides and reel seat. It is best to allow the rod to dry a few days before extended storage. Mildew can mar the finish by growing on graphite, a wooden reel seat and cork grip. Avoid sharp blows from a weighted fly, tree limbs, boat seat or streamside rocks that could cause stress fractures. Keep rods in their bags and tubes as much as possible to avoid breakage in a car door or car trunk. Never lean your fly rod against a car, not for a second, lay it on the hood! Store in a cool place. Never store wet or damp. Do not leave rod sections connected for extended periods for they tend to stick.

Once or twice a year, check the tip and guides carefully for damage and grooves from line wear. Replace any damaged. Run a cotton swab through each to detect any sharp snags. Clean fly line frequently to minimize guide wear.

Check periodically for normal wear, cracks or nicks in the varnish, worn or broken guides, cracked or frayed wraps. Varnish or epoxy cracked wraps. Inspect for damaged fibers, particularly the tips. A fly hook can strike the rod breaking the fibers, causing a weak area. Boat fishing is particularly hard on rods. If you find a damaged area, reinforce it by wrapping it with white silk or nylon thread and coat the thread with varnish. The white tread becomes transparent and hardly noticeable.

Keep ferrules clean and if they seem too tight, lubricate the male with a light coat of paraffin or dry soap.. Do not use your hair or nose oil because the acids will corrode the ferrules. If metal ferrules show signs of oxidation and corrosion, rub with a Carbo-Chlor solution. Never remove metal to get a better fit!

Never use your rod as a whip when you have a snagged line. Pull directly on the line without bending the rod at all. Always size tippets and flies properly for light 2, 3, and 4 rods; they break easily when fighting a big fish using heavy tippets

Bamboo rod

Fine bamboo rods do not require extensive care to maintain beautiful even after a lifetime of use. After a few trips, certainly before winter, lightly paste wax or use a spray furniture wax. Varnish chips can be touched up with any good spar varnish using an artist brush. Never twist when assembling and taking apart. Slide ferrules snugly together with both hands placed close together and separate sections the same way.

Bamboo will set or curve if forced passed it's elastic limit during fishing. Play a fish off the butt by keeping 90 degrees between the line and the rod. This takes strain off the tip and puts more pressure on the fish. Most tips are damaged when landing a fish by bending the tip into a "J". Just swing your rod arm behind you or above you with the reel away from you. This bends the rod in the opposite direction, equalizing the stress. Tips should be alternated with each use. Make a habit of packing the unused tip closest to the rod in the sleeve.

Graphite & fiberglass rod

Joining sections require different techniques than bamboo. To join the rod sections, put the tip on the butt and slide it down until it slips easily, line up the guides and push the sections together firmly and snugly. Do not force spigot ferrules together because they have a 1/4 inch gap at the ferrule to allow for future wear. Some graphite rods use sleeve ferrules. Both types come apart easily by grasping the rod near the ferrules and twisting them apart. Do not lubricate the spigot ferrules. Most graphite rods are broken as a result of a crushing force applied to the rod. In the area of the break, usually the finish has been scratched through which could have occured previously by stricking a hard object.