Sam Sez
Syrah Sensations
It would seem as if Syrah is the darling of the wine world. Everywhere you look there are new offerings of this popular grape. Widely planted in Australia (where it is known as Shiraz) and France (in the Rhone Valley) it has been turning-up in Italy, Spain, South Africa, South America, New Zealand, Canada, and the United States. It is now estimated to be the 7th most widely planted grape variety in the world. Locally, our own Coeur d’Alene Cellars was founded as a Syrah specialist winery. At the time, that was thought to be quite innovative and daring. Now, it seems, every other week a Northwest winery is out touting their new Syrah. I guess CDA Cellars was just ahead of their time.
But where did this grape come from? Of course there are various theories as to its beginnings, but one of the most compelling is that it actually originated in Persia near the town of Shiraz and was brought to the Rhone Valley in France by the Romans around 280 AD. Naturally, the French, over the years, modified the pronunciation and the grape became known as Syrah. A bit prettier to the ear and the new name allowed the French to say it was there all along. In the mid 1800’s the grape found its way to Australia, where it flourished. The Aussies took to calling it Shiraz. One likes to imagine the name change was inspired by a desire to thumb their noses at the French, but who knows.
One thing that is certain, however, is that the grape has won the hearts of wine consumers everywhere, and with good reason. Although the flavor characteristics of Syrah vary as to the climate and soil conditions of the region it is grown in, in the Northwest it almost always displays lush, ripe, dark berry fruit with subtle overtones of black pepper. Often the tannins (the component that “dries-out” the mouth) are soft and unobtrusive making the wines drinkable at a younger age. Coeur d’Alene Cellars has several different bottlings to sample that demonstrate the different characteristics of various vineyard sites. Check out their tasting room on Sherman St. (Barrel #6) for an enlightening comparative tasting. But don’t stop there. There are scores of Northwest producers making interesting Syrah. Here are some of my current favorites.Made in the style that has become identified with the Northwest (not as big and jammy as Australia, but more fruit driven than France)try Zerba Cellars, Seven Hills Winery, Boom Boom Syrah (Charles Smith Wines), or Five Star Cellars (all from Walla Walla). In a more “French” style (emphasizing smoke, spice and earthy elements) consider Cougar Crest Winery (from their organically farmed Estate Vineyard), McCrea Cellars, or Glen Fiona.As it happens, Syrah is great with grilled food, so fire up the BBQ and let the discovery begin.