Susanna Treacy

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Susanna Treacy

After World War II, the United States had it all. New job opportunities, economic stability, and growing families helped define the post-war era as one of the happiest in American history. Interestingly, many of these new jobs were offered to women, a group that had only just started working professionally during the war. Women’s roles in the Navy WAVES proved their intelligence, organization and responsibility, which ultimately, for the first time, showed their value in professional positions. The influence of World War II Navy uniforms in fashion was representative of American women’s optimistic morale in the postwar period. This phenomenon is the result of American women’s growing power and strength in the postwar era workforce.

Right from the start, fashion design, clothing production, and consumerism were slowed down severely by World War II. L-85 mandates for manufacturers enforced restrictions on every aspect of clothing. Due to L-85 restrictions, American designers were not allowed a huge margin for originality or drama in their designs.[1] This lack of new styles and designs from fashion designers resulted in patriotism becoming a source of creativity for fashion during the era. Propaganda, for example, began to influence and mix with traditional feminine styles. These posters could be seen all over the country, which served as an advertisement to join the war. Interestingly, although not intentional, they served as clothing advertisements as well. (Figure 1) Propaganda played a large part in accessorizing. Pins and patriotic messages were added to clothing, hats, and scarves. These accessories helped maintain the united patriotic front encouraged by the government.[2] The representation of American values in clothing created a new perspective on attractiveness. The mix of femininity and patriotism gave clothing an

element of strength. “The overwhelming desired result during this period was, despite rationing, to appear beautiful and strong, which in turn proved patriotism and support.”

To understand why the Navy uniform was so popular in the postwar era, first, we must understand the types of people who originated the look. There are two categories of Navy personnel that have descriptions that are relatable to almost all American citizens. “To generalize on these two categories of Navy personnel, officers seemed basically homogeneous, were college graduates, shared common values, and were conscious of their status. Enlisted men were heterogeneous, different not only from the officers but often from each other, and came from a variety of backgrounds with little formal education.”[3] This suggests how one diverse group can be representative of the types of people within a larger country or culture. The Navy clearly strived to be organized, professional, and strong. “All this furor and activity over preparedness was impressive.”[4] Nautical styles were so popular in the postwar period because the Navy represented many different classes within American society, making the look accessible and achievable. Not only the winning of the war reflects this division’s strength, but also by the American dominance in the post war era.

An important characteristic of the uniform was the display of rank. Each uniform had specific details sewn onto uniforms that indicated grade. Seamen grades were identified by the cuff, and rank and radio specialty badges are worn on the left sleeve.[5] Structure, order, notoriety,

and tradition are all elements of what the Navy represents. Together, these elements convey strength, and America was solid in the postwar era.

Although only men could fight in the war, propaganda posters were aimed at women to take part in a different way, by joining the Navy WAVES. The WAVES were a division of the United States navy that was made up entirely of women. In 1942 the Navy began recruiting women for voluntary emergency service in both officer and enlisted ranks. By 1944, 80,000 women were serving in the WAVES in the continental United States, Alaska, Hawaii and the Caribbean.[6] For the first time, many women were getting a taste of what it was like to obtain a paid, professional job. The Navy established a wide range of positions for the WAVES. “WAVES made the greatest impact in communications, aviation and medicine, but they also served as translators, weather forecasters, photographic interpreters and specialists in chemical warfare, supply, intelligence and other fields.”

The WAVES had a very a unique uniform, combining elements of the Navy uniform with traditional feminine styles and cuts. For example, the Navy blue sailor collar was tied around a small collar on a fitted women’s shirt, and paired with a white skirt and heels. (Figure 2) “Attractive uniforms proved to be an important recruiting tool for the WAVES. Uniforms included stockings and leather handbags and shoes, precious commodities during wartime shortages and rationing. Authorized retailers, including Bloomingdales, Macy’s and Saks Fifth Avenue sold the uniforms.”[7] This style, worn by women who had important key roles in the war, showed the mix between power, strength and maintaining feminine qualities. This conveys the importance of status, success, and order in the Navy force. The spread of the uniform in fashion

rapidly increased. The deeper meanings of the garments were comparable to common American values, which explain the style’s popularity.[8]

In addition to rank indicators, specific colors, cuts, and styles are symbolic of deeper meanings. The Navy and Navy WAVES uniforms are not the only examples of this claim. For example, there is evidence that the Yankee uniform had a direct influence on the creation of the classic pinstriped suit. “Yankee pinstripes contributed to the success of another classic fashion statement, the pinstriped suit. On the field or in the office, those long, thin lines have evolved into an enduring symbol of status and style.”[9] The true meaning behind a style and the group that trademarked that style can explain the spread of it to a larger population. Meaning can travel, even out of its original context. In order to achieve this, most importantly, certain trademark details must be kept to keep a garment and its message consistent and remain unaltered. Once an image, along with its meaning, is engrained in our minds, altering that image would cause confusion. Again with the Yankee pinstripe example, in the winter of 1975-76, the team announced that it would commemorate the nation’s Bicentennial by wearing road uniforms that were the exact opposite of those legendary home outfits—dark blue, with white stripes and lettering. This change in image made many think the team made a mistake.[10] This concept suggests why the Navy Uniform has remained mostly unchanged in both the military world and the fashion world.

The responsibilities of the WAVES forced people to recognize their skills and merit in the workforce. Because of this, jobs in America were opening up to women immediately after

World War II. “The influx of women into the paid work force was one of the most important aspects of postwar work.”[11] The necessity to employ women during the war resulted in a change in America’s opinion on women working in general. For example, shortly after the war, Prudential Insurance ended its seventy-seven year ban on employing married women. This shows the beginning of the public’s recognition of women’s worth beyond within just the home.

Hiring on the basis of skill, and not on a lack of population, showed progression for women’s rights from wartime to the postwar era. During the war, men fought because they had a biological advantage. The wartime positions given to women showed how astute they were. These opportunities gained them respect that would continue to grow in the decades after. “Relatively few jobs created during the post-war decades depended on muscle and body mass, where men generally possessed a biological advantage. The large corporations depended, above all else, on teamwork and the smooth flow of information, communications skills for which women were adjudged to be especially well suited.”[12]

Although women’s working rights were growing in the postwar era, all feminine stereotypes weren’t eliminated over night. Women obtaining jobs was progressive in itself, but these positions were still stereotyped. “In 1949, when the Journal of Retailing reported on a ‘feminine invasion of executive positions’ among 120 leading New York department stores, nearly all of the women executives had been hired as buyers and fashion consultants. A ‘feeling’

for color, fashion and style, the journal explained, were predominantly feminine traits.”[13] Complete role changes cannot occur that quickly. As traditional and sexist as positions were, ultimately, the fact that women were receiving paychecks shows that the war had a positive effect on gaining women’s rights.

In order to continue gaining working rights, women had to maintain a professional image that showed how valuable of an asset they were in the workforce. There is a great deal of hierarchy and class distinction within the United States, which was a challenge all women were up against. To assert their power through their image, women wore outfits to work that strongly resembled Navy WAVES uniforms. The practicality, structure and details of Navy uniforms are applicable to positions to not only those in war, but to normal citizens in America. Despite the change in context, the garment’s meaning progressed from wartime to the postwar period. “The merging of the uniform’s impeccable tailoring, its implicit accommodation of aggressive movements, and its hierarchical pomp make service dress an inevitable source of contemporary apparel.”[14] Women wore this uniform because the image asserted the power that they once held when they were a part of the WAVES. Going further, the style became generally popular in many different contexts. For example, “The image continued into the 20th century. One of the featured items on exhibit is a Traina-Norrell summer dress from 1954. The naval influence can be seen in its collar and scarf.”[15]

Elements from the uniform, such as structure, power, rank, and formality, were ideal for women to positively represent themselves. The influence of World War II Navy uniforms in fashion was representative of American women’s optimistic morale in the postwar period. This phenomenon is the result of American women’s growing power and strength in the postwar era workforce. Although there were other factors in gaining working rights, the use of image and association with a valued group contributed greatly to their progression. During World War II, The Navy provided important positions for women, and after the war, the Navy image provided a new set of positions for women. Looking over the course of time, one might say that this nautical style became a “classic.” The look certainly is commonly associated with clean-cut, professional individuals. In the postwar era, this image absolutely helped women appear that way. Thus, the spread of the style progressed, and the optimism of America grew.

Bibliography

Carnes, Mark C. The Columbia History of Post-World War II America. New York: Columbia

University Press, 2007.

Darman, Peter. Uniforms of World War II. Edison, NJ: Chartwell Books, 1998.

Mason, Meghan. “The Impact of World War II on Women’s Fashion on the United States and

Britain.” UNLV Theses (2011): 17-25.

O’Connor, Raymond. “The American Navy, 1939-1941: The Enlisted Perspective.” Military

Affairs 50 (1986): 173-178.

Olbermann, Keith. “Looking Good in Pinstripes.” Men’s Health (2005): 36.

Wheelan, Frank. “Barracks Meets Boutique Uniforms’ Influence on Fashion the Foundation of

Exhibit.” Morning Call 5 (1995): 1.

The WAVES Freed Sailors to Fight, National Museum of the U.S. Navy, Washington, D.C.

Figures

Figure 1. John Falter, He’ll Be Home Sooner, 1944, National Museum of the U.S. Navy, Washington D.C.

Figure 2. The WAVES Freed Sailors to Fight, 1942, National Museum of the U.S. Navy, Washington, D.C.

[1] Meghan Mason, “The Impact of World War II on Women’s Fashion in the United States and Britain,” UNLV Theses, (2011): 22.

[2] Meghan Mason, “The Impact of World War II on Women’s Fashion in the United States and Britain,” UNLV Theses, (2011): 23.

[3] Raymond G. O’Connor, “The American Navy, 1939-1941: The Enlisted Perspective,” Military Affairs 50, (1986): 173.

[4] Raymond G. O’Connor, “The American Navy, 1939-1941: The Enlisted Perspective,” Military Affairs 50, (1986): 176.

[5] Peter Darman, Uniforms of World War II (Edison, NJ: Chartwell Books: 1998), 91.

[6] The WAVES Freed Sailors to Fight, National Museum of the U.S. Navy, Washington, D.C.

[7] WAVE Uniforms and Accessories, National Museum of the U.S. Navy, Washington, D.C.

[8] The WAVES Freed Sailors to Fight, National Museum of the U.S. Navy, Washington, D.C.

[9] Keith Olbermann, “Looking Good in Pinstripes,” Men’s Health (2005): 36.

[10] Keith Olbermann, “Looking Good in Pinstripes,” Men’s Health (2005): 36.

[11] Mark C. Carnes, The Columbia History of Post World War II America (New York: Columbia University Press: 2007), 117.

[12] Mark C. Carnes, The Columbia History of Post World War II America (New York: Columbia University Press: 2007), 120.

[13] Mark C. Carnes, The Columbia History of Post World War II America (New York: Columbia University Press: 2007), 117.

[14] Frank Wheelan, “Barracks Meets Boutique Uniforms’ Influence on Fashion the Foundation of

Exhibit.” Morning Call 5 (1995): 1.

[15] Frank Wheelan, “Barracks Meets Boutique Uniforms’ Influence on Fashion the Foundation of

Exhibit.” Morning Call 5 (1995): 1.