Been here three weeks now.... what a beautiful country!
The northernmost part of the North Island is Cape Rienga, at the top of 90 Mile beach. Here you see a picture of the long long beach. You will have to imagine the Cape because we didn’t have the stamina to drive the 120 km to the place where Maori souls are launched...
We went to the west coast town of Omapere, on the backwoods area of Hokianga via Rawene ferry (some very Tolkinesque place names here). There we stayed at the Globetrekkers Hostel which Sue and son Mike operated. There are huge dunes nearby. We stayed two nights because the nearby Kauri Forest was so amazing. Here is a picture of some of the amazing giants in the Waipara forest – well worth walking into the forest to see. The road there, twisting and turning through the forest and being one of the windiest roads - the road engineer was obviously concerned with getting as many tight banked corners as possible. Nadeane counted over 15 hairpins in one km.
We are having a grand time here. Feels like a honeymoon – lots of time together, beautiful views, and warm summer weather. The sign below says it all.
Back in Auckland we caught the ferry from Devonport to Waiheke Island – an artsy place a lot like Saltspring Is in BC. We stayed with a Servas host named Kate in her cottage overlooking the harbour. She is a former Waldorf teacher and most chatty person. Nadeane and I hiked to an olive plantation and then in the rain across the island, via the airstrip, to Onetangi Beach.
A cyclone (our second) arrived that night. The weather is extremely variable even in mid summer and we got all types. We got 150mm of rain in one night – and that feels like barrels being constantly poured over the roof. Next morning a slip (small landslide) had closed the road, but thankfully Kate had no car and we had planned to take the bus anyway!
On Waiheke Is we went to the Music Museum in Oneroa, pictured here run by the Whittakers – very devoted couple. Nicknamed Piano Heaven, for their 150+ year old functioning pianos. They demonstrated the pianos, clavichords etc in grand fashion, very cute couple, here playing a duet on the harpsichord so small their hands constantly almost touching.
By ferry to Auckland and Devonport then drove south to Bay of Plenty, to town of Katikati (stop stop in Maori) which we did. Our first Help-exchange project was with Mike and Jizzy (Gizette) Green in this sleepy little fruitgrowing town (like Naramata except they grow kiwis and avocados). This town has a walkway with the largest collection of Haiku on stone in the southern hemisphere. We stayed a week, doing gardening and odd household jobs. Mike and Jizzy and their two teens (picture) are vegetarian, eastern philosophy, urban gardeners and have a wonderful lifestyle, eat very well, grow a great garden, and made great hosts.
We learned about Help-exchange and the whole process. Also lot of new and different fruits – trees which grow at a spectacular rate... Nadeane was in gardening heaven.
Reed paddled down the river in this wheely kayak! And got caught in the low tide mud!
On Tuesday Feb 1 we took a break to drive to a nearby city Tauranga, Mt Manganui (nearby volcanic cone, Matamata, site of the filming of Hobbiton in LOTR, and Rotorua, the hot lakes city noted for geysers, hot mud baths and rotten eggs air. It also has a Maori village, which puts on a great display of music, dancing, food and animals (below). We stayed late into the night and saw several kiwi birds who are nocturnal and very shy (no photos allowed).
Got “home” to Katikati at midnight under crystal clear skies, stopping to view the Southern Cross (Crux) on the way home. What a treat
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When we left Katikati we stopped to view the huge public gardens in Hamilton. Nadeane is again in gardening heaven ...
We holed up for a night in Lake Taupo area where the rocks float on the water. I am not kidding – the pumice rock is so prevalent that rocks float in on the waves! We tried it!
Then next day we headed off for Mt Tongariro - National Park. It is a volcanic park, none active right now. Also the site of filming of Mordor in Lord of the Rings. We hiked around Mt Doom a.k.a. Mt. Ngauruhoe which is perfectly symmetrical cone of red and black lava and pumice.
Mt Ngauruhoe (Doom) in the background. Very harsh landscape.
The lightweight pumice stone floats on water... and weighs about the same as dense foam.
The Emerald lakes nearby Red Crater, Mt Tongariro. The fog rolled in minutes later and they disappeared. It turned windy and rainy and cold.
Freaky forest of beech trees and moss.
Tama Lake below. Above – scorching sun. We felt like we were in a broiler! Crazy mountain weather.
We next went to the south Island for 8 days of serious water play and staying with a couple of fabulous Kiwi hosts!
We kayaked down the Whanganui River gorge – 4 days of being carried downstream. This is one of New Zealand’s “Great Walks” even though its actually a paddle. Very fast river up to 18 km/hr by GPS, but no hazards to speak of. As you can see we piled an amazing amount of stuff into two single kayaks.
Do these folks look geared up or what?
There were several riverside caves we explored.
We had the most wonderful welcome by Jo, the volunteer host at John Coull Hut. The hut is one of many such shelters provided by Dept of Conservation - each hut full of adventure travellers from around the world – speaking many languages, or English with the most amazing accents.
One day we hiked to the Bridge to Nowhere ... an 80 year old cement arch bridge, miles from any road - let alone highway. Oddly enough a tourist attraction nonetheless!
The canyon was crazy green.... I call it green extreme. These pics don’t do justice to the lush fern forest lining on that river.
Sometimes we just floated along with the river...slack-jawed at the beautiful scenery.
Check out the stroke technique.
This is not a picture of a floating turd by my paddle, but a piece of volcanic rock (actually pumice). They are unsinkable. Reed plans to start manufacturing life jackets filled with rocks. Which should sell really well.
Our last night was spent at Tieke Kainga – a Maori sacred site (marae). It was very well maintained, almost like a resort overlooking the Whanganui River. The “totem” or story pole is shown here.
We visited Wellington and stayed in the beautiful home of our Servas hosts. This rooftop dome was actually our bedroom!
Next day we took the ferry to Picton – shown below passing through Queen Charlotte Sound.
We visited some Blue River friends of Jean’s on the South island who live on the ocean, and we paddled their super-fast kayaks. Notice Nadeane leaving me in the dust!!
We rented a “Freedom Hire” (unguided trip) double kayak and paddled and walked the Abel Tasman Park – another Great Walk for four days. The company Marahau Sea Kayaking provided us with maps, all the gear, and the briefest briefing ever before sending us off. Our paddling took us past the marine reserves (see seals below) and passed through many fern tree forests. We came back by the water taxi sighting seals on the way.
Sunset across the Cook Straight. The tidal range here – 4 meters – makes for completely different beachscapes at low tide.
A particularly beautiful bay in Abel Tasman Park ironically called Sandfly Bay. This is one of many with a barrier dune fronting the ocean, and a protected lagoon behind.
Other gaggles of paddlers came and went in guided groups.
We hiked the last day and a half from Onetahuti Bay to Totaranui Bay - along the widest, smoothest, best graded trail I have ever seen. You could almost take a wheelchair. On one section we were accompanies by a 91 year old hiker! We also crossed one tidal flat that was like crossing the moon –barren of life for 2 kilometers. Sorry the picture didn’t turn out – looks like something from the moon!
The west coast beaches of South Island – looking a lot like Long Beach and Tofino.
So our time in New Zealand is half done – and we have the rest of the South Island - so much to explore...so little time.
Our itinerary (in case you asked) is Bali, Singapore, Durban, Johannesburg, Dar Es Salaam, Nairobi, Istanbul... and Greece.
Best to all our friends and family back home!
Reed and Nadeane