STUDENT GUIDE
Unit B: Evolution and Movement of Fashion
OBJECTIVE: 2.01 Interpret the process of fashion forecasting.
A. Describe fashion forecasting and fashion trend.
1. Fashion forecasting: Foreseeing fashion trends and predicting those trends early enough to allow time for production to meet the consumer demand.
2. Fashion trend: The direction of movement of public acceptance of color, texture, and silhouette in fashion.
B. Identify those involved in forecasting.
1. Fashion staffs employed by textile producers
2. Highly-skilled consultants working for fashion services
a. Provide market research, feasibility studies, collection reports, forecasting, consulting, slides, garments on loan, and/or original designs.
b. Fashion services: Resources for fashion reporting, forecasting, and consulting that are available for a fee or by subscription.
(1) Doneger Creative Services (www.doneger.com)
(2) Promostyl (www.promostyl.com)
(3) ESP Trend Lab (www.esptrendlab.com)
(4) Carlin International
(5) Here and There
(6) Trend Union (www.edelkoort.com)
3. Fashion designers
4. Color services: Fashion and textile industry professionals who meet twice a year to pool their knowledge of color cycles and preferences and to project color trends for the future.
a. Examples of color services
(1) Standard Color of Textile Dictionnaire Internationale de la Couleur (SCOTDIC)
(a) An international color codification system for textiles
(2) Pantone, Inc.
(a) Color codification systems and technology for the selection and accurate communication of color for textiles as well as for the graphic design, printing, publishing, and plastics industries
(3) Huepoint (www.modeinfo.de)
(4) Color Portfolio, Inc. (www.colorportfolio.com)
5. Fashion merchandisers
6. Retail store owners/managers
C. Describe activities in fashion forecasting.
1. Conducting marketing research
a. Consumer research
(1) Surveys by telephone or mail
(2) Consumer focus groups
(3) In-store informal interviewing
b. Market research
(1) Study of market conditions
(2) Observation of consumer lifestyles
(3) Study of current events, the arts, and the mood of the public
c. Sales research
(1) Evaluation of previous records to recognize sales trends
(2) Rising sales identify developing trends.
(3) Declining sales show what fashions have passed their peak.
(4) Weak sales indicate fashions that are not meeting consumer demand.
d. Comparison shopping
(1) Visits to the businesses of one’s competitors to compare merchandise selections, prices, and other factors related to competition
(2) Evaluation of currently popular designer collections
(3) Review of fashion publications, catalogs, websites
(4) Observation of “street” fashions and celebrity wardrobes
D. Identify sources of published information used by forecasters.
1. Trade publications: Magazines, newspapers, and books that relate current information about and for a specific industry.
a. Information about trends, business conditions, vendors, and meetings/conventions.
b. Examples: Women’s Wear Daily (WWD) and Daily News Record (DNR)
2. Consumer publications: Magazines that provide fashion news and information for the consumer.
a. Teen market examples: Teen, Seventeen, and YM
b. Adult female market examples: Vogue, Elle, Essence, and Glamour
c. Male market examples: GQ
3. Websites
OBJECTIVE: 2.02 Summarize the movement and acceptance of fashion
A. Define fashion movement and fashion.
1. Fashion movement: Ongoing change in what is considered fashionable.
2. Fashion: The styles that are accepted and used by a particular group of people at a given time.
B. Explain the theories of fashion movement.
1. Trickle-down theory (Downward flow theory): The assumption that fashion trends start among the upper class or fashion leaders and move down to the masses or fashion followers.
a. World’s oldest and most accepted fashion theory
2. Trickle-up theory (Upward flow theory): The assumption that fashion trends start among the young or lower income groups and move upward to older or higher income groups.
a. Style originates with the lower class and gains approval by upper class or the fashion elite.
3. Trickle-across theory (Horizontal flow theory): The assumption that fashion moves horizontally through groups at similar social levels from fashion leaders to followers.
C. Explain the fashion cycle.
1. Facts about the fashion cycle
a. Fashion cycle: The ongoing introduction, rise, peak, decline, and obsolescence in popularity of specific styles or shapes.
b. The cycles for some styles are exceptions to the bell-shaped curve.
(1) Flops: Fashions that are introduced and expected to sell but that are not accepted by consumers.
(2) Fads: Temporary, passing fashions that have great appeal to many people for a short period of time; styles that gain and lose popularity quickly. Examples: go-go boots, Nehru jackets, legwarmers
(3) Classics: Styles that continue to be popular over an extended period of time even though fashion changes; styles that remain in fashion year after year. Examples: blazers, denim jeans, men’s dark suits, the Chanel suit, loafers
2. Stages of the fashion cycle
a. Introduction: The first stage of the fashion cycle when new styles, colors, textures, and fabrics are introduced.
b. Rise: The second stage of the fashion cycle when consumer interest grows and the fashion becomes more readily accepted by consumers.
c. Peak (Culmination stage): The third stage of the fashion cycle during which a style is at its height of popularity.
(1) The style may have a short or long stay at this stage.
(a) Short-run fashions: Styles that are popular for a brief period of time.
(b) Long-run fashions: Styles that take a long time to complete the fashion cycle.
d. Decline: The fourth stage of the fashion cycle when the market is saturated and popularity decreases.
e. Obsolescence: The fifth stage of the fashion cycle when the style is rejected, is undesirable at any price, is no longer worn, and is no longer produced.
3. Lengths of fashion cycles
4. Roles of fashion leaders and followers in the fashion cycle
(1) Fashion leaders: Trendsetters who have the credibility and confidence to wear new fashions and influence the acceptance of new trends
b. Fashion followers: Those who accept and wear a fashion only after it becomes acceptable to the majority. .
D. Identify the five basic principles of fashion movement.
1. Consumer acceptance or rejection establishes fashion.
2. Price does not determine fashion acceptance.
a. Knockoff: A design copied from a more expensive garment.
3. Sales promotion does not determine fashion.
4. Fashion movement is evolutionary rather than revolutionary.
5. Fashion extremes cause reversals or abrupt changes.
E. Compare factors that accelerate or decelerate fashion movement.
1. Factors that accelerate fashion movement
a. Communications and mass media
b. Good economic conditions
c. Increased competition
d. Technological advances
e. Social and physical mobility
f. More leisure time
g. Higher levels of education
h. Changing roles of women
2. Factors that decelerate fashion movement
a. Bad economic conditions
b. Cultural and religious customs
c. Laws or other governmental regulations. Example: restrictions on the use of hides and furs of endangered animals
d. Disruptive world events
OBJECTIVE: 2.03 Recognize the relationship between historical events and fashion evolution.
A. Investigate historical events and the evolution of fashion during the twentieth century.
1. 1940 – 1949
a. Mood of the decade
(1) World War II
(a) L-85 (General Limitations Order) restricted amount of fabric used in production of apparel.
(b) Other restrictions limited use of silk, wool, rubber, metal
(c) Shorter skirts
(d) Sloppy Joe sweaters
(e) Bikini introduced
2. 1950 – 1959
a. Mood of the decade
(1) Color television introduced
(a) Beatniks
(b) American Bandstand
(c) Pedal pushers, slacks, halters, shirtwaist dresses
(d) Ivy League look
(e) Poodle skirts
3. 1960 – 1969
a. Mood of the decade
(1) Civil Rights Movement
(a) The Afro
(b) Dashiki : A loose, brightly-colored African tunic
(2) Youthquake Revolution
(a) Mod look: Clothing with psychedelic colors and geometric designs; miniskirts with white go-go boots
(3) Election of John F. Kennedy
a. First Lady Jackie Kennedy is the fashion icon of the decade wearing Chanel suits and simple dresses, pillbox hat, pearls, and low-heeled shoes.
b. People who influenced the fashions of this decade
(1) Influence of designers decreased.
(a) Mary Quant – London designer who introduced the Mod look
(b) Twiggy – skinny British model who became the top model of the sixties
4. 1970 – 1979
a. Mood of the decade
(1) Dawn of the Disco, Studio 54, Saturday Night Fever
(a) Bell-bottom hip-hugger pants
(b) Hot pants with white go-go boots
(2) “Me” decade, self indulgence
(a) String bikini
(3) Shoes
(a) Platforms: Shoes with a thick mid-sole that makes the wearer appear taller.
(b) Clogs: Heavy, usually wooden-soled shoes.
5. 1980 – 1989
(a) Bustier worn by Madonna
(b) Stirrup pants: Stretch pants with tapered legs that end with a flat fabric or elastic loop to be worn under the foot to hold the pants legs taut.
(c) and sweatshirts with cut out necks
(2) Punk
(a) Dog collars
(b) Mohawk hairstyles
(c) Leather jackets and chains
6. 1990 – 1999
a. Mood of the decade
(1) Casual Friday – khakis, polos, loafers, jeans with company T-shirts worn to work
B. Investigate historical events and the evolution of fashion during the twenty-first century.
1. 2000 –
(a) Bling bling (big jewelry)
(b) Ugg boots: Trendy sheepskin boots from Australia; made popular among teens by Britney Spears; originally referred to as “uglies.”
OBJECTIVE: 2.04 Identify major fashion centers, types of designers, and price market categories.
A. Identify major fashion centers.
1. New York City, New York
a. Largest fashion marketing center in the United States
b. Known for the Seventh Avenue garment district in Manhattan
(1) Shows held in tents in Bryant Park
2. Los Angeles, California
a. CaliforniaMart is the largest fashion and textile facility in the United States.
b. Primarily serves the West Coast
3. Other American centers
a. Atlanta, Georgia
(1) AmericasMart
(2) Primarily serves southeast
b. Chicago, Illinois – primarily serves central states
c. Dallas, Texas
(1) Primarily serves central states
(2) Known for evening, bridal, and western fashion
d. Miami, Florida
(1) Largest swimwear trade show in the world
4. Paris, France
a. Paris is considered the world fashion leader.
b. Haute couture businesses are located in city “fashion houses” rather than in commercial buildings.
(1) Chambre Syndicale: The trade association for top designers, which is governed by the French Department of Industry.
(a) Sets qualifications for couture houses and requirements for collection showings
5. Italy
a. Alta moda: The high fashion industry in Italy.
b. Rome is the center for couture.
c. Milan is the center for high-quality ready-to-wear.
d. Florence is known for lower-priced ready-to-wear, menswear, children’s wear, and knitwear.
6. Great Britain
a. London is the major fashion center.
b. Promoted by the British Fashion Council (BFC)
c. Fashion week twice a year
B. Define terms associated with fashion design.
1. Collection: The total merchandise in a designer’s or apparel manufacturer’s seasonal presentation, especially for high-priced garments.
2. Couture (koo-tour): High fashion clothing created by designers.
3. Fashion designer: One who creates or adapts clothing and accessory designs for manufacturers, retailers, or individual clients.
4. Fashion piracy: Stealing design ideas.
5. Fashion seasons: Distinct retail selling periods in fashion marketing.
6. Garment district: The area in a fashion center where most of the apparel companies are located.
7. Haute couture (hoat koo-tour): The name for the high fashion designer industry of France; high-fashion, individually designed, original garments.
8. Alta moda: The name for the high fashion industry in Italy.
9. Licensing: A legal arrangement granting a manufacturer the exclusive right to produce and market goods that bear the name of a famous person.
10. Line: A collection of styles offered by a manufacturer or designer.
11. Prêt-a-porter (prêt-a-por-tay’): French term for ready-to-wear.
12. Private label: Merchandise developed for a given store and displaying that store’s label; found in better, moderate, and budget price market categories.
13. Ready-to-wear: Apparel mass produced in factories to standard size measurements.
C. Identify basic types of designers.
1. Couture
2. Stylist: One who designs by changing or adapting designs of others.
a. Makes lower-priced merchandise
b. Creations made during the rise stage of the fashion cycle
3. Freelance designer: An independent designer who sells sketches to manufacturers.
D. Identify the price market categories of women’s apparel.
1. Designer (Couture)
a. Category now almost extinct due to the extremely small market
b. Original, high-priced fashion custom-made for a very few individuals
c. One-of-a-kind extreme styles, avante-garde
2. Bridge
a. Has almost replaced the couture category
b. Secondary lines of well-known couture designers
c. Have the designer’s label
d. Most expensive ready-to-wear
3. Better
a. Have a firm label rather than a designer’s name. Example: Jones of New York
b. Ready-to-wear produced in larger quantities
c. Reasonable prices
d. High quality
4. Moderate
a. Well-known and nationally-advertised brand labels. Examples: Jantzen, Gap, and Wrangler
b. Lesser-known or un-known designers work for the manufacturer.
5. Budget/Discount
a. Lowest priced category
b. Created by stylists
c. Knockoffs: Designs copied from more expensive garments.
d. Mass produced in less expensive fabrics with fewer details
OBJECTIVE: 2.05 Research influential names in fashion design.
A. Identify influential American designers.
1. Tommy Hilfiger
2. Calvin Klein
3. Donna Karan
4. Vera Wang
5. Sean “P. Diddy” Combs
6. Bill Blass
7. Tom Ford
8. Ralph Lauren
9. Norman Norell
B. Identify influential Italian designers.
1. Donatella Versace
2. Muccia Prada
3. Valentino
C. Identify influential French designers.
1. Oscar de la Renta
2. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel
3. Christobal Balenciaga
4. Hubert de Givenchy