1st September 2014
South AMERICA
This buying trip actually took place in November last year, but its release has been rather timely delayed until the Beautiful South Tasting that is taking place this month (and certainly not through procrastination on my part!)
Each region and country we visited was so diverse, as well as it being an incredibly exciting time to visit due to lots of changes and developments taking place there. Travelling there in November meant that it was approaching summer, so it was a rather good opportunity to escape the rather gloomier Autumnal weather here in the UK. I travelled to Chile, Argentina and Uruguay, but I have omitted the producer visited just outside of Montevideo in Canelones from this report. More than 50% of Uruguay’s population live in and around Montevideo and it was therefore a popular and logistically practical area in which to plant vines. Their fertile, clay soils and the pressure from an extremely important domestic market have contributed to the fact that, in general, the wines just aren’t that exciting here. I have spoken to others in the trade and there is an agreement that smaller wineries that are investing in poorer, low vigour areas in the East, West and North are ones to watch and hold the key for Uruguayan export success and recognised for quality wines.
I think it is fair to say that FMV had previously given a rather limited exposure to South America, but we have sourced some exciting new agencies following this recent visit, with a couple of promising opportunities in the pipeline. There are some innovative producers starting to emerge in these regions and there is a real shift in growers wanting to concentrate on making quality led wines, rather than being seen as ‘go-to’ wine region for cheap, bulk wine. This new movement of growers wanting to give something back, valuing their terroir and what they have to offer the consumer is truly exciting and worth taking notice of. Before my trip I had lived a rather sheltered life and had never consumed a Pisco Sour. I am now a convert to this South American drink (whether it originated in Peru or Chile is still being debated) I think the best one I have had on my return is from the Michelin starred Lima restaurant in Soho, but for those wanting to try this at home, please see the recipe below.
Pisco Sour - Ingredients:
50ml of Pisco (Grape brandy)
50ml of lime juice
25ml Sugar syrup
1 dash of bitters
½ egg white (preferably free range!)
Method:
Place all the ingredients into a cocktail shaker and shake.
Strain into a glass to serve
Fiona Hayes, Buyer – South America
Chile
Viña Dona Javiera, Maipo Valley
We have been working with this estate for almost 15 years and this long standing relationship has managed to offer us well-priced wines that have a good price to quality ratio that guarantees them featuring on good restaurant wine lists. This is an exciting time for Javiera, and our visit was rather timely to meet the new faces there. Owner Paco Correa sadly passed away in February and his wife died only a few weeks before our visit, so the estate is now in the hands of one of his 10 grandchildren, Jose Yavar. Jose, who has been working at Javiera since 2010 is young and passionate and he clearly wants to make improvements and his mark. Brother Juan Paolo is also involved helping the cellar manager Jorge on a daily basis. Although Jose’s roots are deep rooted within wine (one of Jose’s great grandfathers was the founder/winemaker at San Pedro in Mollina, and the other was a winemaker at Tarapaca winery), however he would probably be the first to admit that he has much to learn. With the help of talented consultant winemaker Felipe de Solminihac able to advise on viticulture and vinification, and a passion to make a success of this family business, there is definitely a motivation to push the boundaries a little more than in the previous years and aim for better quality, whilst still offering good value for money. With only 20% of wineries in Chile under family ownership, it is certainly a positive sign to have a younger generation keen to keep the tradition going. Javiera are one of the increasing number of South American wineries developing their wine tourism, and there are plans to open up their winery to tours in the future.
This amazing property just outside of the main town of El Monte in the Maipo Valley is steeped in Chilean history. The family house was built in the early 18th Century and originally belonged to Chile’s first president, Jose Miguel Carrera and it is said that by the fountain (that appears on the label) is where Chile’s declaration of Independence was signed.
The current family bought Dona Javiera in 1850, with the first vines planted in 1993. The large cellar (a $2.5 million project, which was a significant investment at the time) was built in 1996 and despite currently only producing 40,000 litres under the Javiera name, the winery has a capacity of 1.6 million litres. Some producers use the winery equipment and storage (even the likes of San Pedro and Tabali) due to its close proximity to Santiago and the ports in the West. Six varieties are current planted at Dona Javiera: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere and Syrah. Their total vineyard holding is made up of 50 hectares (situated 2 km from the winery), of which is made up of only one parcel of land and twelve plots. Estate fruit only goes into their wines, but they sell around 15 hectares of grapes to neighbours. There is a further 10 hectares that have not yet been planted, that they plan to plant in the next few years, however the aim is not to expand too much, but focus on improving the quality.
The Maipo Valley has a largely Mediterranean climate, with Dona Javiera’s benefitting from its proximity to the coast, with a breeze flowing through the vineyards at around 17h00 during the growing season. The vines are protected by the surrounding trees and mountains. Rainy winters are followed by long, dry summer and usually no rainfall occurs from the end of October until April. Average summer temperatures in the daytime reach 31⁰C and fall to 12⁰C in the evening.
The Maiporiver is 500 metres away from the winery, which is the main source of water for the estate and due their proximity they are not vunerable to water shortages that is not uncommon in the area. The estate has two different soil types; alluvial soil with large stones that isn’t very deep, as well as deep rich and fertile clay soils. Their vineyards are planted at between 100-500 metres (Santiago is 750 metres) and density planting is currently at 2,666 plants/hectares (2.5m x 1.5m), however their aim in the future is to move to higher density planning (ideally around 4,000-5,000 plants/hectares). Due to the fertile soil and density planting it is hard to control the vigour, but they do practice green harvesting. Although they are not organic, spraying is kept to a minimum.
There was quite a bit of rain in the Maipo in 2013, so therefore concentration levels are a little lower than in 2012. Maipo is one of the warmest regions in grape growing Chile and therefore weather conditions are very consistent in this high yielding area.
Dona Javiera Chardonnay, 2013
Dona Javierahave 9 hectares of Chardonnay planted, with an average vine age of 20 years. Harvested 1st week of March. 13.8% alc, 4.0g/l total acidity, 3.44pH, 1.01g/l Residual sugar. Lemon and ripe stonefruit aromas on the nose, with a touch of warmth on the palate.Creamy texture, relatively good level of acidity, easy drinking and technically sound.
Dona Javiera Sauvignon Blanc, 2013
Dona Javierahave 5hecatres of Sauvignon planted at the estate. This wine is not 100% Sauvignon Blanc as there is a little Sauvignon Vert planted also. Harvested 3rd week of March. 12.5% alc, 3.83g/l total acidity, 3.48pH, 1.20g/l Residual sugar. Pleasant and easy drinking.Classic Sauvignon Blanc from the Maipo.Ripe grapefruit aromas with some herbal notes.Medium concentration and length.
Dona Javiera Merlot, 2013
Dona Javiera owns 6.5hectares of merlot. Grapes were picked end of April/start of May, one month later than 10 years ago. 85% Merlot. 12.5% alc, 3.03g/l total acidity, 3.6pH, 1.69g/l Residual sugar. Purple tint, blackcurrant, plum, hint of cassis and blackberry.Ripe tannins with a marked acidity.Spiciness on the palate, with good purity of fruit.Approachable juicy quality with a good level of concentration in the mid-palate.
onaJaviera Cabernet Sauvignon, 2013
This is Dona Javiera’s largest holdings with 25hectares, of which 10hectares are sold to other producers. 13.7% alc, 3.30g/l total acidity, 3.60pH, 2.19g/l Residual sugar. Dark berried fruits, quite ripe, with a density on the palate Smoky character on the nose. Firm and grippy tannins balanced against the acidity and density on the mid palate.
Dona JavieraCarmenere, 2013
Dona Javierahave 3 hectares of Carmenere that are planted. In order to try and avoid the capsicum aromas they shorten the maceration time for this varietal. Originally they thought they had planted Merlot, but it turned out to be Carmenere, so some of the plantings are mixed with Merlot plantings. Coulure and naturally lower yields make this a difficult and expensive varietal for them to produce. 85% Carmenere. 12.5% alc, 3.08g/l total acidity, 3.63pH, 1.88g/l Residual sugar. Redcurrant and a little raspberry fruit on the nose. Lovely perfume and soft, ripe tannins.Approachable and easy to drink.
ViñaKoyle, Colchagua Valley
This is a family business that was started by Alfonso Undurraga and his three sons in 2006, when the family sold their shares in the Undurraga winery. The Undurraga name is well known in Chile and the family has been involved in wine for six generations. We tasted the wines in Santiago with the export and commercial manager, Max Undurraga, but the vineyard is based in Alto Colchagua, where his brother, viticulturalist and winemaker, Cristobal Undurraga lives. Koyle is named after the native Chilean climbing plant that lives around oak trees. Cristobal has worked in Argentina, Australia, Napa Valley and at Chateau Margaux, but has now returned to make his mark in his home country of Chile. The winery is rented 20 minutes south of Los Lingues in Curico in an old Montes cellar.
This Biodynamic estate is focused on producing premium wines that respect their terroir and where their wines portray a sense of place. They received certification for Organic and Biodynamic practice (Emo and Demeter) in 2012. Based at the foothills of the Andes this farm totals 1,100 hectares, of which 80 hectares are planted under vine in Los Lingues. The remaining land has a substantial oak forest and there are plans to create a reservoir. Koyle winery are part of a new generation of growers that are striving to move away from the plains of Santiago and moving to more unique sites and less fertile soils, such as the foothills of the Andes or by the coast. The soils are Volcanic (60%) with clay (30%), which is typical of the region. As part of this new way of thinking, they also understand their limitations of their terroir and are planting varietals accordingly. Only red grapes, principally four varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Syrah and Malbec, as well as a further 9 varieties to blend: Petit Verdot, Petit Syrah, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Mouvedre, Merlot, Garnacha and Cabernet Franc.
They started to produce a white wine in 2011, but buy the grapes through contracts in the West of Colchagua (only small production).
The highest plantings currently at Los Lingues reach 600 metres, but there are plans to plant higher up at 800m, behind the third terrace, that would bring the vineyard planted holdings to 200 hectares. Grapes for their Royale range are sourced from the third terrace (the highest part). The higher up the slope, the steeper and more volcanic and rockier the soils become. Planting density is around 7,000 vines/hectare with new plantings expected to peak at around 12,000 vines/hectare at just 1 metrex1 metre, which is incredibly high! The cover crops consists of native Chilean plants and flowers, which they feel has an impact on the grapes and the character of the wines. In the vineyard there is a mixture of massale and clonal selection, as well as grafted and non-grafted vines. The Undurraga’s have used their expertise and experience to find the best sources for their plant material and have a lot of diversity with around 35 different varieties planted (if you include clonal variation) Mediterranean climate, with strong influence of cooling winds from the Andes. Colchagua is a warm valley, but the Alto Colchagua is much cooler with the fresh air from the glaciers of Andes, which make an impact from mid-day.
VinaKoyle Costa Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Grapes bought in from Paredones, 8 km from the ocean in the Western part of Colchagua. The soil composition is yellow granite, quartz and volcanic. This unique site led Koyle to decide to harvest 3 different plots on different days. The highest lot has a northern exposition and is the highest parcel, and reaches a greater maturity and is fermented in burgundy barrels. The second lot benefits from a Southern exposition and is low yielding with a greater acidity and is fermented in concrete eggs to enhance the saline, minerality of the wine.(more lees contact and movement in the vessel, that promotes a softer, creamier texture). The third lot comes from vines on the flat land and is a more fruit driven style. Fermentation in stainless steel. 10 months spent on lees. Yield of 1kg/vine. 3.8 pH with an acidity of 5.21g/l. Tropical floral notes, green apple and ripe stonefruit. Lime and grapefruit peel on the palate, concentrated with a touch of spice. Oily texture with a nervy acidity that creates an uplifting freshness.Restrained.
VinaKoyle Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Grapes coming from the Second terrace (mid slope). The wine sees 12 months in French oak barrel. The blend consists of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon as well as Malbec and Syrah. Black berried fruits dominate the nose and palate. Well balanced, lively bright fruits and refreshing acidity.
VinaKoyle Gran ReservaCarmenere 2012
85% Carmenere as well as Syrah and Tempranillo.Juicy red berry fruits; raspberry and redcurrants. Cloves, cedar and red plum notes can also be felt. Fine grained, grippy tannins are supported by a good level of concentration and acidity. Spice continues on the palate.
VinaKoyle Royale Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Grapes coming from the third terrace (lower part of the slope). The yield is less 1kilo/plant, 7-8 tonnes/ hectare. The blend consists of 85% Cab and 12% Malbec and 3% Petit Verdot. 18months in French oak, mainly new with some second use barrels also. Blackcurrant, plum and damson fruit aromas with a hint of thyme.Juicy ripeness that is supported by good level of acidity and firm, but firm but ripe tannins. Good level of concentration, dark red fruit sweetness that persists. Very good.
VinaKoyle Royale Carmenere 2010
85% Carmenere, 6% Petit Verdot, 5% Malbec, 4%Syrah.7-8 tonnes/hectare.Dark chocolate, blackcurrant, red plum, just a touch of pepper spice. Slight herbal character; rosemary, firm, fine grained tannins, good concentration, ripeness supported with good level of acidity and balance. They control the ‘severe’ Carmenere character by planting on poor soils and keeping the yield low.
VinaKoyle Royale Malbec 2010
7% Mouvedre, 4% Petit Verdot.Cristobal’s project after his stay in Argentina. 18 months in barrel, very small volume. Feels quite spicy, hints of black olive and blackberries. Own identity, compared to Argentinean malbecs. Deep concentration with very grippy tannins.
VinaKoyle Royale Syrah 2010
97% Syrah, 3% Mouvedre. For the Reserva range, nearly always 100% Syrah! Juicy and dense. Black pepper spice, raspberry and cherry aromas. Dark chocolate and coffee. Good length, integrated tannins.
Montsecano, Casablanca Valley
Montsecano is a joint venture between photographer JuiloDonoso and Alsatian winemaker Andre Ostertag in Casablanca. Their first harvest was in 2008 and they produced only 387 bottles of the Montsecano Pinot Noir. Since then, production has increased ever so slightly and vineyard and winemaking has become more refined. Every vintage keeps on improving and the two wines produced from this small estate are incredibly unique and exciting.
Of the 21 hectares of land, 6 hectares are planted under vine in the town of Las Dichas which goes into producing Montsecano Pinot Noir, and 4 hectares in Ovalle (which are rented) that go into making the Refugio. With family connections to the Il Refugio vineyard and aware of its potential, Julio managed to convince Andre to make a more entry level style to their offering.