Stage Makeup

How it works

Creating a believable character is one of the greatest challenges an actor faces when performing in a show. Actors must consider a host of factors. What does the character sound like? How does he or she move? And of course there's the often-parodied question, "What's my character's motivation?" One thing that can help an actor flesh out a role into a believable character is stage makeup.

Through stage makeup, actors can transform themselves. They can travel through time to play someone younger or add decades of experience with a few simple products and techniques. They can switch genders or become something inhuman. And just as stage makeup can help an audience suspend disbelief as they watch a show it can help an actor lose him or herself in a role.

Joe Tabacca/AP Photo

John Lithgow begins to apply makeup before a performance of

Dirty Rotten Scoundrels.

Straight makeup

The fundamental purpose of stage makeup is to correct the effects of distance and light that would otherwise make your face completely disappear. Stage makeup serves a totally different purpose than regular every day makeup. Stage makeup maybe a necessity anytime you will perform on a stage, or any place with stage lights.

Character makeup
When you're making an actor into another person you must alter his appearance so it fits the new character. If the character is mean, kind, fat, thin or ugly you must change the actors own features to match this. To be able to do this a lot of different methods can be used such as wigs, false teeth and facial prosthetics.
When you're doing a highlight and shadow makeup you are really just using the actor’s own features to alter his looks by showing and hiding things that are already there. Depending on what kind of stage you are working on the makeup can differ quite a bit. If you're working on a small stage you have to put on makeup which is very subtle but for a big stage it can look really grotesque in person but great on stage.
Character makeup can also sometimes be classical makeup's like the Peking opera masks or Japanese kabuki makeup.

Types of Stage Makeup

Pigmentation

In most cases, actors will need a foundation that matches their own skin tone. For some productions, an actor may need to choose a shade lighter or darker than his or her natural skin color. Actors shouldn't apply a foundation that strays from their own skin tones. If your foundation's color differs from your skin tone too much, it will appear unnatural to your audience.

Every actor or makeup artist needs certain tools to create the perfect face for a production. The first thing to consider is the makeup itself. There are three main categories of stage makeup: grease paint, cream-based makeup, and cake makeup.

Greasepaint contains oil and can come in cream or stick formats. It's a heavy makeup and can cause people with sensitive skin to develop acne after wearing it for a few hours. It's also harder to remove than creame or cake makeup. While it was once the only type of stage makeup available, it is seldom used today.

Cream-based makeupis easier to apply evenly than either grease paint or cake makeup. It blends well, comes in a variety of pigments, and is easy to remove. It is the most commonly used type of stage makeup today.

Cake makeup comes in powder form, which you must mix with a little water before applying to your skin. While cake makeup tends to be gentler on the skin, it's also challenging to apply without streaking. Cake makeup is easier to remove than cream-based makeup.

Any type of stage makeup should have a high-pigment content. The pigment is important in stage productions, because actors often perform under bright lights. These lights will reveal imperfections. Makeup with a high-pigment content can conceal blemishes or other skin conditions.

In addition to a foundation, actors will need rouge, shadow and highlight makeup, a pencil liner, mascara, eye shadow, lip color and powder. Most actors and makeup artists will use a translucent powder, though some will choose a powder that matches the color of their foundation. That covers the basics. For special effects, actors may need additional makeup including an adhesive called spirit gum, blood makeup, crepe hair (for false beards) or gelatin.

Other items that should be in every actor's makeup kit are various makeup removers. Many actors use cold cream to remove makeup. But a full makeup kit could also include spirit gum remover, an astringent, moisturizer and eye cream.

Stage Makeup Tools

Other Handy Items…

A good way to anger a stage manager or costumer is to get makeup all over your costume. To avoid this theatrical faux pas, it's a good idea to wear an old shirt while applying and removing makeup. Once you've set your makeup, you can put on your costume. Another handy thing to carry with you is a headband to keep your hair out of your face as you work your magic.

The well-equipped actor will have a variety of tools inside a makeup kit. To apply a foundation smoothly, actors use makeup sponges. You can find sponges made of latex or latex-free materials. The triangular sponge is popular among actors because the shape of the sponge makes it easier to apply makeup around features like the ears and nose.

A good makeup kit will also contain a variety of brushes. Use a soft, long-haired brush to apply rouge or other powder-based colors on top of your foundation. Use shorter-hair brushes to apply shadows and highlights if you wish to accentuate the lines of your face -- an essential part of creating an older appearance.

Applying makeup becomes easy with a large mirror, bright lighting and a little practice.

A powder puff is also a necessary tool. As you might expect given the name, you use a powder puff to apply setting powder on top of your makeup. Setting your makeup prevents it from streaking or smudging as you perform. Since actors can become warm under the hot lights of the stage or while moving around under bulky costumes, sweating is almost impossible to avoid. Setting your makeup with powder will help prevent you from sweating it off in the middle of the show.

If you plan to create special effects with your makeup, you'll want to purchase a stipple sponge. The basic stipple sponge doesn't look like a sponge at all. It looks more like a block made out of wire mesh. Actors use stipple sponges to create special textures with makeup. With the right application technique, you can use a stipple sponge to create effects like bloody scratches or severe burns.

Makeup kits should also include tools designed to help remove makeup. Washcloths, cotton balls, baby wipes and a towel are good items to have on hand. If you're using putty to alter the shape of your nose, you may also want to have some dental floss on hand. You can use the floss to peel away the putty.

Basic Application Guide

Step 1: Prep Your Face

Before you can do anything else you MUST start with a clean face. I've noticed that many of the people who complain about stage makeup ruining their skin don't really take the necessary steps to prevent it. Cleaning & preparing your face for makeup is extremely important not only for skin care but also to ensure that your makeup will look its best once applied. Also it's easier to ensure a smooth makeup application if your skin is clean beforehand.

Here are some tips for cleaning / prepping your face:

  • warm water opens up your pores to help you get the gunk out
  • an exfoliant removes the dead skin that can cause a flaky texture under your foundation
  • cold water closes your pores and can help keep the makeup from getting deep down in your skin.

Use a non-oily moisturizer to prep your skin, and give it a few minutes to sink in. The moisturizer helps create a smooth surface for applying the makeup, and also creates a layer of protection.

Note: Male actors shouldn't shave immediately before applying stage makeup. Shaving can irritate the skin and applying makeup can cause further irritation.

Step 2: Foundation

Your cream foundation must match your natural coloring! This is extremely important for achieving a natural look onstage. The best match is a shade darker than your natural color, as if you had a tan (or a darker tan).

Using a foundation brush or sponge to apply your foundation, start at the center of your face (your nose) and work outwards, up into the hairline, out to the ears, and then down through the neck. Using this method prevents you from missing spots and also minimizes the amount of blending you must do afterwards.

Wipe off the excess from your foundation brush or use a new sponge, and blend the edges of your foundation. Areas to watch for are your hairline, ears, around the nose and lips. Do not be afraid to get foundation on your lipline, as this will actually help your lipliner to hold and prevent feathering.

Step 3: Contouring

Contouring is a step that many community theatres skip, but it is very important if you are performing in a large theatre or in a theatre with very strong lighting. When you have so many lights on your face, the lack of shadow can cause your face to appear very flat. Contouring replaces the highlights and shadows to give your face dimension. For contouring you will need both a very light and a very dark makeup - cream foundations in the right color will work fine if you don't have the professional products designed for contouring.

Caring for your makeup tools

Makeup brushes can be a breeding ground for bacteria and fungus. Every time you use one on your face, it picks up dirt, bacteria, oils, and dead skin cells (not to mention saliva and tears). Also, after a while, dirty brushes get stiff, the bristles separate, and your makeup streaks when you apply it. Clean brushes are softer on the skin and pick up makeup more evenly. So, keeping your brushes clean will not only help prevent nasty infections and clogged pores, but will also result in your makeup looking smoother and prettier. Therefore, it is important to clean theatrical brushes after every use.

There are specially-made makeup brush cleansers, but a face wash will do the trick just as well. Look for a foaming cleanser like Olay Foaming Face Wash, which helps dissolve makeup and oils. Creamy or milky cleansers may not be strong enough to remove dried foundation or caked-on makeup. Avoid bar soap, laundry detergent, or dishwashing liquid, all of which can weaken the bristles and leave residue that irritates your skin.

Follow these steps to make sure your brushes last longer and your makeup looks its best:

  • Run your brushes under warm water to rinse off loose makeup. Do this with bristles facing down.
  • Apply a small amount of foaming cleanser, and work it into the bristles with your fingers. Periodically rinse and reapply cleanser as needed, until water runs clear.
  • Gently pat dry, reshape the bristles, and lie flat on paper towels. Do not dry brushes in an upright position since water trapped inside the base of the brush can dissolve the glue that's holding the bristles in place.
  • When bristles start falling out, it’s time to get a replacement brush.

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