TA03 Frequently Asked Questions
Model List:
TA03F/R
TA03FS/RS
TA03F Pro Kit
TA03F Pro Drift Spec
TA03F David Jun Kit
TA03R TRF Kit
TA03R/RS TRF
Basic Info:
TA03F-S and R-S has a wheelbase of 237mm
TA03 Chassis width according to Tamiya is 185mm for all TA03’s
The David Jun model is in short a TA03F Pro with a bunch of hop ups. It’s basically the TRF version of the TA03F. Also, as far as I know, the David Jun model TA03F comes with a set of front C carriers that have a different amount of caster, and are specific to the David Jun model. They either are one degree or three degrees, the stock caster is two degrees. The stabilizer bars are a different stiffness, and are silver in color. Also various parts are gold anodized.
The Aramid belts are skinner and thinner then the stock TA03 belts, which are wider and thicker. The Aramid belts come in various colors, Red for TA03F-S and TA03R-S, TA03F as black, green and blue. The yellow TA03 belt is made by Tech Racing. With Aramid belts it isn’t necessary to run a belt tensionor.
Stock pulley size is 16T front and rear. The kit also includes 15T pulleys (two pulleys).
Torque control units are supplied with aluminum pulleys. TA03F kit comes with 15T and 17T pulley while the TA03R comes with 14T and 16T pulleys. Basically the torque control unit is two different sized pulleys, a 15T and a 17T, the standard 03f pulleys are both 16T, you can use these pulleys to give more torque(15T) to either the front or the back and less(17T) to the other, the unit also includes a one way shaft.
Black gears are plastic while the white (cream) gears are delrin. The cream gears have a fine tooth pattern while the Black gears are a coarse pattern. Cream gears have also been said to be quieter then their black counter parts.
The gear boxes starting with the number 5xxxx are all grey color.
Most needed parts right out of the gate:
TRF Dampers – These will provide a better ride and far greater adjustability over the stock oil or friction shocks that come with any TA03 kit.
Bearings – If you TA03 comes with bushings, ditch them for the better rolling ball bearings. These will give you a smoother less friction drive train will also giving you a tad more run time, cause of the less friction.
Sway bars – Keep your TA03 level during drifting.
Other noticeable parts:
Tobee Craft Rear Spool – Locks the rear wheels together
Low Mount Shock Towers – Provides extra ground clearance if needed
Front Universal Joints
Center One Way Shaft – Acts like 4WD when on throttle but acts like 2WD when off throttle
Ball Differential(s)
Conversion Guide:
TA03F to TA03R, you will need:
- TA03R front gearbox (B Parts, 50743)
-TA03R bumper tree (E Parts, 50717)
From TA03R to TA03F, you will need:
- TA03F rear gearbox (B Parts, 50699)
- 2x 16T pulley or belt tension (w/15T pulley)
- 50698 TA03 A Parts (motor under guard)
Miscellaneous Information:
If you’re looking to remove the tub chassis and to get the flat chassis, you will need the FRP conversion kit for the style of TA03 you have. There are a few different kits out there that are FRP conversions.
The TA03F FRP set and the TA03R FRP set are closely the same, minus the TA03R FRP set has a different top deck compared to the TA03F FRP set and that it also comes with other various parts to work with the motor gear box.
Also if you want to go to the Carbon plates you’ll need also the J part(s) which include battery stay and chassis blocks and other parts needed.
Optional:
- 53306 RC TA03F FRP Chassis Set
- 53358 RC TA03R FRP Chass.Conversion (2nd choice, usable for F)
- 53302 RC TA03F Pro Carbon Chassis
- 53261 RC Carbon Battery Plate Set - TA03F-Pro
- 53267 RC TA03 Ball Differential Set
Gears and Pulleys:
The TA03TRF and 03f pro run Tamiya 0.4 pitch gears NOT standard 64 pitch although it will work u should run a Tamiya 0.4 pinions.
Black = 48p [Tamiya 0.6 Pitch]
Cream = 64p [Tamiya 0.4 Pitch]
Possibly based on 16T pulley combo.
12T / 9.93:1 / N/A
13T / 9.16:1 / N/A
14T / 8.51:1 / N/A
15T / 7.49:1 / N/A
16T / 7.44:1 / N/A
17T / 7.00:1 / N/A
18T / 6.62:1 / N/A
19T / 6.27:1 / N/A
20T / 5.96:1 / 8.44:1
21T / 5.67:1 / 8.01:1
22T / 5.41:1 / 7.67:1
23T / 5.18:1 / 7.34:1
24T / 4.96:1 / 7.03:1
25T / 4.76:1 / 6.75:1
26T / N/A / 6.49:1
27T / N/A / 6.25:1
28T / N/A / 6.03:1
29T / N/A / 5.82:1
30T / N/A / N/A
Possibly based on Cream Gears
Pinion Tooth / 15T Pulley / 16T Pulley / 17T Pulley20T / 9.00:1 / 8.44:1 / 7.95:1
21T / 8.58:1 / 8.04:1 / 7.57:1
22T / 8.19:1 / 7.67:1 / 7.22:1
23T / 7.83:1 / 7.34:1 / 6.91:1
24T / 7.50:1 / 7.04:1 / 6.62:1
25T / 7.20:1 / 6.75:1 / 6.36:1
26T / 6.93:1 / 6.49:1 / 6.11:1
27T / 6.67:1 / 6.25:1 / 5.89:1
28T / 6.43:1 / 6.03:1 / 5.68:1
29T / 6.21:1 / 5.82:1 / 5.48:1
30T / 6.00:1 / 5.63:1 / 5.30:1
Chassis Parts and Upgrades:
Sway bars:
Red - soft
Yellow - medium
Blue - hard
White - extra hard
#53276 Tamiya TA03 Fluorescent Stabilizer
Comes with mounting hardware, red, yellow, and blue stabilizer bars.
Bumpers:
Front Bumper with air inlet
#53304 TA03R Versions
#53268 TA03F Versions
Shock towers:
The Tamiya Reinforced lower shock towers allow you to mount body shells lower and also give you the option of extra ground clearance if needed.
Part #53337 Reinforced Damper Stay Low Mount
If you run the TRF Dampers you will need to run the longer shock mount on the bottom. With this you will be able to get about 3 to 4 mm of ground clearance. If you switch to the Low mount towers your able to get about 8 to 9 mm of clearance with the same shock ends.
Turnbuckles & Camber:
Camber:
#53192 Tamiya 4WD/FWD Turnbuckle Upper Arm Set
For TA02, TA02W, TA03, FF01 Chassis Cars
Toe:
#53662 TT-01 Turnbuckle Tie-Rod Set
Miscellaneous Part & Kit Numbers:
Part Number / Item Description9805542 / Top Deck Pulley Plate
9805540 / Gear box joint x2
58278 / Lancia 037 Rally - TA03RS
58250 / Peugeot 206 WRC - TA03F-S
58243 / TA03R-S TRF Special Chassis
58239 / Penzoil Nismo GT-R - TA03F
58227 / TA03R-TRF Special Chassis
58225 / Mitsubishi Lancer Evo. V - TA03F
58220 / Mobil 1 NSX - TA03R
58218 / Toyota Corolla WRC - TA03F-S
58215 / PIAA Porsche 911 - TA03R-S
58214 / Mercedes CLK-GTR - TA03R
58210 / Subaru Impreza WRC '97 - TA03F
58207 / Avex Dome Mugen NSX - TA03R
58203 / Nissan R390 GT1 - TA03R
58200 / David Jun TA03F-Pro Limited
58199 / Mitsubishi Lancer Evo.IV - TA03F
58193 / Porsche 911 GT1 - TA03R-S
58189 / Martini AlfaRomeo 155 V6 TI - TA03F
58188 / Opel Calibra Cliff - TA03F
58185 / Kure Nismo GT-R - TA03F
58182 / Audi A4 STW - TA03F
58177 / TA03F-Pro
53571 / TRF Fluorine Coated Damper
53569 / Clamp Type Alum Wheel Hub - 6mm
53387 / TA03 R-S /F-S FRP CHASSIS CONVERSION SET
53386 / TA03R-S/F-SCARBON CHASSIS SET
53364 / Carbon Steering Bar
53363 / TA03R CARBON CHASSIS SET
53358 / TA03R FRP CHASSIS CONVERSION
53357 / Aluminum Motor Plate (Blue)
53337 / TAMIYA TA03 Reinforced Damper Stay (Low Mount Type)
53326 / Tamiya TA03 Aluminum Steering Set.
53325 / Tamiya TA03 Aluminum Knuckle Arm (1 Pair)
53316 / Tamiya TA03 Aluminum Front Hub Carrier (Silver, 1 Pair)
53315 / TA03R-S Carbon Reinforcing Plate.
53312 / TA03 Carbon Stabilizer Support
53311 / TA03R Carbon Reinforcing Plate
53310 / Tamiya TA03 Universal Drive Shaft Set (1 Pair)
53309 / Tamiya Titanium Suspension Shaft Set
53306 / TA03F FRP Chassis Set
53305 / TA03 LIGHTWEIGHT DRIVE SHAFTS (Blue)
53304 / Tamiya TA03-R Urethane Bumper Set
53302 / TA03F Carbon upper and lower chassis deck
53299 / Tamiya TA03R Torque Control Unit 14/16T
53298 / Tamiya TA03F Torque Control Unit 15/17T
53297 / TA03R-S Drive Belt - Aramid Fiber
53296
53030 / Tension pulleys brushing
w/2 850 bearings
53296 / TA03R Ball Bearing Set
53291 / Tamiya Aluminum Pulley (15T
53288 / TA03 REAR ALUMINIUM UPRIGHTSET (Silver, 1 pair)
53287 / TA03 Carbon Reinforcing Plate (Tub Chassis Only ?)
53286 / Tamiya TA03 Aluminum Pulley 16T
53285 / Rear Body Mount Support Plate
53280 / Tamiya TA03 Super Low Friction Damper Set
53279 / TA03 torque splitter
53278 / TA03 Aramid Fiber Reinforced Drive Belt (For TA03F & TA03R only)
53276 / TA03 Fluorescent Stabilizers
53275 / TamiyaTA03 Aluminum Motor Heat Sink
53269 / TA03 Aluminum Motor Mount Plate
53267 / TA03 Ball Differential
53266 / TA03 Stainless Steel Suspension Shafts
53261 / TA03F Pro Carbon Battery Plate Set
53260 / TA03 HOLLOW CARBON GEAR SHAFT
53238 / M01 Quick Release (J parts are needed)
53200 / Tamiya 4WD Front One Way Diff Unit.
53192 / Tamiya 4WD/FWD Turnbuckle Upper Arm Set
53172 / Universal shaft
53157 / Aluminum king pins
50745 / TA03R-S Bath Tub Chassis
50744 / TA03 L Parts (Body Mounts, Grey)
50719 / Tamiya TA03 Bathtub Chassis (Grey)
50718 / Tamiya TA03 G Parts (Gear, Black)
50706 / Tamiya TA03 Drive Belt
50705 / TA03 Knuckle Arm (Black)
50704 / Tamiya L Parts (Gear Pro, Cream)
50703 / Tamiya TA03 PRO J Parts (Battery Holder)
50702 / Tamiya TA03 F Parts (Pulley)
50701 / Tamiya D parts (Suspension Arm)
50698 / Tamiya A Parts (Gear Case)
50585 / Tamiya 4x10mm Step Screw (5pc)
49320 / TAMIYA BLUE LIGHTWEIGHT ALUMINUM SERVO STAY
49198 / TRF Damper Set - Blue 4pcs
49121 / TA03 Stabilizer Stopper Set
49111 / Black Rear Gear Box
49110 / Black Front Gear Box
49109 / TA03 Carbon Reinforcing Plate (Black, Tub Chassis Only ?)
49108 / TA03 Carbon Reinforcing Plate (Blue)
49097 / Tamiya TA03 Aluminum Front Hub Carrier (Blue, 1 Pair)
49091 / Lightweight Drive Shaft (Purple) x2
43780 / Tobee Craft Aluminum Servo Stay
30770 / Tobee Craft Lightweight Screw Set
957-075 / Eagle Model Special Pulley Set (TA03)
001R / Paranoia Torque Limiter for Tamiya TA03-R
T3-19W / Tech Racing Super Universal Wide Tread for Tamiya TA03F (Pro) RS
TZ-35GP / Cross Aluminum Front Knuckle for Tamiya TA03 (Silver)
TT-39 / Cross Aluminum Front Hub Carrier for Tamiya TA03 (Silver)
TT-55 / Cross Aluminum Pulley for Tamiya TA03
P-072 / Paranoia Brushing Pipe Set for Tamiya TA03F
TT-219 / Cross Carbon Chassis Set for Tamiya TA03
T3-B / Tech Racing Carbon Chassis Kit for Tamiya TA03 FS/RS
Steering mod:
With this mod you will be able to gain more steering angle.
- Credit to ChavezSA on DRC
This is a steering modification that my friend and I use on our TA03s. It's awesome for drifting, and it really works. It's also really simple to do - 3 steps!! You can do it in about 5-10 minutes, and all it requires is a drill and a dremel or a grinder.
Start off by removing both front knuckles, and both steering arms from your TA03. Also, remove the tie rods from each arm, and set them aside. You'll need to lengthen them later on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/chavezsa/TA03F/steering_mod_parts.jpg
Shave off or sand away the small bumps that are on the interior edges of the steering arms that bump againt the front gearbox. This is much easier if you have the plastic arms instead of the aluminum ones, but you can shave off the aluminum ones too. It just takes more work. Removing these bumps will give you a couple of millimeters of travel in each direction. Make sure that it's completely smooth on both arms, so both of your steering arms travel the same amount in both directions.
Before:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/chavezsa/TA03F/steering_arm_before.jpg
After:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/chavezsa/TA03F/steering_arm_after.jpg
Here's a look at the difference between unmodified arms, and shaved arms. Note how much closer the ball end comes to the gearbox.
Before:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/chavezsa/TA03F/steering_travel_before.jpg
After:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/chavezsa/TA03F/steering_travel_after.jpg
Drill a small hole on each of your front knuckles. Make sure to use a drill bit that is slightly smaller than your ball end threading. This will ensure that the ball ends will have enough mateial to thread into. You'll be drilling the hole in FRONT of the original hole. If you have regular plastic knuckles, then I recommend using the casting imperfection that is about a millimeter or so in front of the original hole as the drilling point. Make sure you drill the hole as straight as possible.
Before:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/chavezsa/TA03F/knuckle_before.jpg
After:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/chavezsa/TA03F/knuckle_after.jpg
Screw your steering ball ends in the new holes. If you put your steering assembly back together, you'll notice that the front hubs are toed in much more than before you modified the front knuckles. Simply adjust your tie rod lengths to correct the toe angle of the front wheels.
Viola!!
Now your inside wheel (when turning) will have an extra 3-5 degrees of steering travel. That doesn't sound like much in 1/1, but on a 1/10 TA03, the wheelbase is short enough that it makes an INCREDIBLE difference.
For those of you who are familiar with real cars, D1, Formula D, and drifting in general, this is the equivalent to a very popular tie rod modification made by professional drifters. By subtley changing the steering geometry, you're changing the distance that the tie rods travel when turning, so that they pull the wheel further inward, resulting the wheel turning further outward. The outside wheel won't change too much, because of the way the steering geometry works. But when turning, the inside wheel tracks into the turn at a much steeper angle, allowing for tighter turning and higher angle drifting.
Here's an example of this steering modification at work, on a professional drift car: