The Good Earth

The Good Earth

Dubuque County Master Gardener’s

Publisher Mary Ann Emery Volume No. 10 Issue No. 6 Date June, 2011

Extension Master Gardener

Dubuque County Extension

14858 West Ridge Lane, Suite 2

Dubuque, IA 52003-8466

563-583-6496; Fax 563-583-4844

www.extension.iastate.edu/dubuque

1

Hello everyone!!!

We certainly had a terrific plant sale on Saturday, May 7th. We sold over $900 in plants and baked goods. Thanks for all who helped make this a huge success.

All our yards are certainly looking wonderful this season. It took a while to get here but it is certainly wonderful to be outdoors moving plants, mowing and making needed improvements. I have been changing the shapes on a couple of my beds to make them easier to mow around, moving rocks (big ones too), spreading new mulch - - just doing the things that I had started and am now getting the time to finish. It is just so wonderful to be in the fresh air.

Happy Father’s Day to all our dads on Sunday, June 19! Hope you all have a great day!

-- Mary Ann Emery

Mission Statement

The mission of the Master Gardener Program is to provide current, research-based, home horticulture information and education to the citizens of Iowa through ISU Extension programs and projects. Through their participation in educational activities, Master Gardeners also increase their own personal knowledge in horticulture. Master Gardeners extend Iowa State University Extension’s consumer horticulture education programs through volunteer activity.

Items of Interest!

1) Message from Marv

2) Call Center

3) Ask the Experts

4) Iowa Master Gardeners Gets New Look

5) Questions to Hotline Increasing

6) Hiring Professional Tree Services

7) Cuba City Garden Walk

8) Eastern Iowa Pond Tour

Master Gardener News Items

Please mark your calendars with these important dates.

Thanks Everyone!

a)  Master Gardener Advisory Committee Meeting; 2nd Monday of each month, 6:00 pm at the Extension Office. These meetings are open to all Master Gardener’s, Trainees (interns) and invited guests. Please come and support your Extension programs. M.G. Advisory Committee Meeting: Monday,June 13, 2011 at 6:00 pm at the Dubuque County Extension Office.

b)  Tour of Gardens: Tour is Sunday, July 10.

c)  Master Gardener Picnic, Sunday, August 27, starting at 5 p.m. at the Dubuque Arboretum.

NOTE: These events have been approved for volunteer hours toward gaining or maintaining your Master Gardener certification. Please contact Marv Stoffel at (563)582-4764 or by email at if you want to be a volunteer at any of these events. Watch this area for more exciting events to come.

From Marv Stoffel, President

Master Gardener Advisory Committee

This is a very busy and exciting time of year. I'm sure everyone has been busy planting and getting their yards and gardens ready for summer.
At this time I would like to thank Ray Kunkel, who has chaired the Master Gardener Spring Plant Sale for the last several years. He has decided to step down and turn his duties over to someone else. Thanks Ray for your excellent leadership in this event.
On Saturday May 7th, we had our annual Master Gardener Plant Sale. This year's plant sale was chaired by Frank Kalnes and Joe Timmerman, who did an excellent job of making this year's plant sale a huge success. Thanks Guys! WE were blessed with very nice weather and an excellent variety of plants, baked items, and etc. for sale this year. Thanks to all who volunteered for this event. I know everyone who volunteered had a lot of fun and enjoyed it very much.
Our next big event will be the popular Tour of Gardens, chaired by Jeanne Ambrosy and Lou Ann Arensdorf. They have been very busy planning and organizing for this event. They have a line-up of some very beautiful gardens. The Tour of Gardens will be on Sunday, July 10th, held rain or shine. If you want to volunteer for this event contact Jeanne or Lou Ann. This is another great way to pick up volunteer hours and have lots of fun doing this. I can't wait to see these gardens.
Just a reminder to everyone. We are having the Summer Webinar Series held at the Co Extension Office on the 4th Tuesday of the months, May, June, July, and August which starts on May 24th. You can attend one or all of these sessions. Hopefully, everyone received information about this. If you are interested in attending any of these sessions, please call Trish at the Extension Office. These sessions count as Education Hours and should be very informative.
Have a great and happy summer everyone!!

Call Center: We Need Your Help

Our Call Center will be staffed through October. There are many openings on the schedule for June, July, August, and September. Please call Trish at the Extension Office or Marv Stoffel if you can help out in the Call Center on either Mondays (6-8pm) or Thursdays (1-4pm). They will make sure that your name gets on the schedule.

If you are scheduled to work in the Call Center and cannot make it, please find someone to fill in for you. Please feel free to go into the Call Center to work if your name is not on the schedule. There is usually always something to do and anyone who stops in or calls with questions are truly grateful for our help. We all can learn so much from each other and trying to help solve other gardening problems. This is another great opportunity to get your volunteer hours in, be of service to our community, and have a good time doing this at the same time.

Thanks to all who have volunteered for this so far. You’re Great! The Call Center cannot be a success without you. Thank you.

Ask the ISU Extension

Gardening Experts

What is the proper way to plant a balled and burlapped tree?

When planting a balled and burlapped tree, dig a hole that is two to three times wider than the diameter of the tree’s rootball. The depth of the hole should be two or three inches less than the height of the rootball. Slope the sides of the hole so the top of the hole is several inches wider than the bottom.

Grasping the tree’s rootball, carefully lower the tree into the hole. The top of the rootball should be approximately two or three inches above the surrounding soil line. Make sure the trunk is straight. Then begin backfilling with the original soil. Do not add compost, peat or other organic materials to the soil. Gently firm the backfill soil in the hole with your hands.

When the planting hole is one-half full, cut and remove all twine. Also, cut away and remove the burlap on the top one-third to one-half of the rootball. If the rootball is in a wire basket, remove the top one-third to one-half of the basket. Completely fill the remainder of the hole with soil. Place soil up to the top of the rootball and gradually slope it down to the surrounding soil line. Thoroughly water the tree.

Poorly drained sites are difficult locations for many trees. When selecting trees for these sites, choose trees that can tolerate poorly drained conditions. In poorly drained soils, the depth of the planting hole should be approximately two-thirds of the height of the rootball. When placed in the hole, the top one-third of the rootball should be above the surrounding soil. Fill the hole with soil. Place soil to the top of the rootball and gradually slope it down to the surrounding soil line.

What is the proper way to plant a container-grown tree?

When planting a container-grown tree, dig a hole that is two to three times wider than the diameter of the container. The depth of the hole should be two or three inches less than the height of the soil ball. Slope the sides of the hole so the top is several inches wider than the bottom. In poorly drained soils, the depth of the hole should be approximately two-thirds the height of the soil ball.

Once the hole has been prepared, carefully lay the tree on its side. Tap the sides of the container to loosen the soil ball from the container, and then slide the tree out of its container. All containers should be removed, even supposedly plantable containers. If the sides of the soil ball are a mass of roots, carefully shave off the outer ½ to 1 inch of the soil ball with a sharp spade or saw. Place the tree in the hole. The top of the soil ball should be approximately2 or3 inches above the surrounding soil. In poorly drained sites, the top one-third of the soil ball should stick above the surrounding soil.

Gradually fill the hole with soil. With each new addition of soil, firm it in place with your hands. Place soil to the top of the soil ball and gradually slope it down to the surrounding soil. Once planted, water thoroughly.

Caring for newly planted trees

Should I fertilize a newly planted tree?

It is generally not necessary to fertilize newly planted trees. Most Iowa soils can supply sufficient amounts of nutrients during establishment. If trees are growing poorly two or three years after planting, fertilization may be beneficial. Poorly growing trees often exhibit sparse foliage, yellow-green leaves or short annual twig growth.

Should I stake a newly planted tree?

Staking is not required for most newly planted trees. However, large trees and those planted in windy, exposed sites may require staking. If staking is necessary, allow the trunk to move or sway for proper trunk and root development. To prevent damage to the trunk, use strong, wide strips of canvas, rubber or other materials to support the tree. Remove the stakes as soon as possible. In most cases, stakes should be removed after one growing season.

How should I prune a newly planted tree?

Trees utilize sugars and other carbohydrates manufactured by the foliage for plant growth. Therefore, avoid the temptation to severely prune newly planted trees. Severe pruning reduces the tree’s ability to manufacture food and actually slows plant growth. Newly planted trees require only corrective pruning. Remove structural defects, such as double leaders and dead, broken or crossing branches. Retain most of the lower branches to help stabilize the tree. The lower branches also provide food for the growing tree. Gradually remove the lower limbs as the tree grows during the next five to10 years.

How often should I water a newly planted tree?

The key to watering newly planted balled and burlapped and container-grown trees is to keep the plant’s rootball moist for several weeks after planting. Water newly planted trees every day for four or five days and then gradually reduce the frequency of watering. When watering, slowly apply water to the rootball and the surrounding soil. A thorough watering every seven to 14 days (in dry weather) should be sufficient four to five weeks after planting. Continue this watering schedule through summer and into fall. Small trees usually require watering for one or two growing seasons. It may be necessary to periodically water large trees for two or three years.

In regards to tomatoes, what is meant by the terms “determinate” and “indeterminate”?

Determinate and indeterminate describe a tomato variety’s growth habit. Determinate tomatoes are small, compact plants. They grow to a certain height, stop, then flower and set all their fruit within a short period of time. The harvest period for determinate tomatoes is rather short, making them good choices for canning. Indeterminate tomatoes continue to grow, flower and set fruit until killed by the first frost in the fall. Accordingly, the harvest from indeterminate varieties often extends over a two to three month period. Yields are generally heavier than determinate types, but fruit are usually later to mature. Indeterminate tomatoes are large, sprawling plants which often perform best when grown in wire cages or trained on stakes.

What are some good tomato varieties for Iowa?

Suggested tomato varieties for Iowa include ‘Jet Star’ (indeterminate plant; red, oblate, medium to large fruit), ‘Better Boy’ (indeterminate; red, round, medium-sized fruit), ‘Celebrity’ (determinate; red, oblate, medium to large fruit), ‘Big Beef’ (indeterminate; red, oblate, large fruit), ‘Red Sun’ (determinate; red, globe-shaped, large fruit), ‘Carolina Gold’ (determinate; golden orange, oblate, large fruit), ‘Pony Express’ (determinate; red, plum-shaped fruit), ‘Sweet Olive’ (determinate; red, oval, grape-type fruit), and ‘Golden Sweet’ (indeterminate; yellow, oval, grape-type fruit). Oblate fruit are roundish with slightly flattened tops and bottoms.

When purchasing tomato plants, are big or small plants better?

When purchasing tomato plants at your local greenhouse or garden center, select stocky, dark green plants. Plants should be 6 to 10 inches tall with stems about pencil-size in thickness. Avoid large plants with flowers and fruit. Early fruit development will stunt plant growth and reduce total yield.

I have started several tomato plants indoors. Can they be planted directly into the garden?

Plants started indoors or purchased at a greenhouse should be hardened or acclimated to outdoor conditions before transplanting into the garden. Initially place the plants in a shady protected location, then gradually expose them to longer periods of sunlight. After several days of hardening, the tomatoes should be ready to be planted into the garden.

When can I plant tomatoes in Iowa?

Transplant tomatoes into the garden after the danger of frost is past. In central Iowa, it’s usually safe to plant tomatoes around May 10. Gardeners in southern Iowa can plant one week earlier, while those in northern areas should wait an extra week. The last practical date for planting tomatoes is approximately June 20.

What is the proper way to plant tomatoes?

Tomatoes perform best when grown in fertile, well-drained soils in full sun. Soil structure and drainage of heavy, clay soils can be improved by incorporating organic matter, such as compost or peat, into the soil. Raised beds are another option for gardeners with heavy, clay soils. Planting sites should receive at least six to eight hours of direct sun daily.