This is the fitting for the brake booster (above). To remove it, twist clockwise until it stops, and then pull up. Next, remove the PCV tube and set it aside, unbolt the bracket on the driver's side of the intake that holds the blue connector and move it to the side. Also unbolt the bracket behind it that supports part of the wiring harness and set it aside.

The bracket that routes over the passenger side of the distributor cap and bolts down over the coil is retained by three bolts. Two are at the top and are easily removed. The third is on the back side of the cylinder head and is not so easily removed. Here, you can choose which way you want to remove this bracket. Either it can be unbolted entirely and set aside, or you can remove the two nuts at the top and bend the bracket up and over the coil and distributor cap and out of the way. Both ways yield the same result, but the second is much faster. Now remove the coil and set it aside.

Note, in the picture above, that the spark plug wires on the driver's side of the cap are routed in the same order in the clip as they are on the cap. Remove them from the cap and remove the 13mm bolt holding the plug wire clip and the EGR tube bracket and pull them out of the way. The EGR tube should be flexible enough to bend it up and over the oil filler tube and rest it on the other side. If it feels like it may crack, however, remove the oil filler tube, and using a bungee cord, pull the EGR tube as far out of the way as you can without breaking it. Next remove the two torx screws holding the distributor cap on and set the cap over to the passenger side with the plug wires still attached.

Fuel line disconnect

Some techs like to disconnect the fuel lines from the top of the intake at the injector assembly and then flex the fuel lines out of the way. I find it easier to take the lines loose at the back of the intake. Simply remove the two 16mm fittings at the back next to the distributor. The easiest way to do this, due to the lack of room to swing a wrench, is to break them loose with a medium-length line wrench (be sure to hold the other side of the fitting when you do) and then run the nuts out by hand if possible, or a stubby wrench if they are too tight.

Be sure to mark the distributor

Now, clean off a portion of the base of the distributor and make a mark with liquid paper from the intake to distributor. Be as precise as you can, because the closer you get the two marks on re-assembly, the less time you will have to spend setting cam timing when the job is done. A mark also needs to be made at the rotor button. This is not as critical as the lower mark, but still needs to be as precise as possible. Once these marks are satisfactory, remove the distributor and set it aside. Plug the distributor hole with a rag so that nothing gets dropped down into the engine.

Next, using a bungee cord, pull the wiring harness up off the top of the intake. It needs to have several inches of clearance between it and the top of the intake for ease of removal and installation. Secure the bungee cord to the base of the passenger side windshield wiper arm.

AC and Power Steering Bracket

Next, remove the AC and power steering bracket. To do this, the three visible bolts and one nut must be removed. There is another nut down at the bottom of the bracket, usually covered in dirt and grime, and very hard to find the first time. Once these five fasteners have been removed, there is a sixth nut behind the power steering pump below the exhaust manifold on the drivers side. This nut only needs to be loosened, not removed. Now the bracket should slide forward and out of the way of the intake. It is your choice to either slide it along the stud, or to pull it all the way forwards and rest it on the bottom of the fan shroud.