VOCATIONAL
ENGLISH
No 2
AUTO REPAIR
and
BUTCHERY
December 2015
Repair
Definitions
1.General: Restoration of a broken, damaged, or failed device, equipment, part, or property to an acceptable operating or usable condition or state. See also beyond economic repair, major repair, normal repair, and repairability.
2.Quality control: Action taken on a non-conforming product so that it fulfills its designed (intended) function, whether or not conforming to the originalspecifications
Automobile repair shop
An automobile repair shop (also known as a garage) is a repair shop where automobiles are repaired by auto mechanics and electricians.
Types:
Automotive garages and repair shops can be divided into following categories:
  • The auto parts stores or motor factors who also maintain service operations. This is not common in the United Kingdom but more common in the US.
  • Automobile repair workshops that are independently owned and operated businesses. These may also include regional or national chains and franchises including OEM car dealership sites. In the United States, these sites are commonly certified by their respective manufacturer to perform warranty and recall repairs by that manufacturer or distributor. Independent automobile repair shops in the US may also achieve certification through manufacturer sponsored programs.[1] In the European Union a recent law (The EC Block Exemption Regulation 1400/2002 (October 2003[2])) allows motorists more flexibility in selecting where they can get their car serviced. Due to this legislation, maintenance and service work does not have to be done by the main dealer as long as the garage uses Original Equipment 'Matching Quality' parts, and are recorded as such, and the garage follow the manufacturer's service schedules. The Block Exemption Regulation (BER) covers service and maintenance during the warranty period and prohibits vehicle manufacturers’ warranties from including conditions that require normal maintenance to be provided within the vehicle manufacturer’s network or that all parts used must be the manufacturer’s original spare parts. This means that motorists benefit from open market competition in aftermarket parts, repairs and services thus reducing the cost of servicing through better labor rates and competitively priced parts. Also, some auto repair shops provide additional towning services.
  • Specialty automobile repair shops are shops specializing in certain parts such as brakes, mufflers and exhaust systems, transmissions, body parts, tires, automobile electrification, automotive air conditioner repairs, automotive glass repairs and installation, and wheel alignment or those who only work on certain brands of vehicle or vehicles from certain continents of the world. There are also automotive repair shops that specialize in vehicle modifications and customization. Oftentimes, various specialized auto repair shops will have varied infrastructure and facilities (for specific jobs or vehicles), as well as technicians and mechanics with different qualifications.
  • Online automobile repair shops providing doorstep repair services and home delivery of new and used auto parts of different late model and classic cars whose parts are not widely available in the market. Such kind of organizations are predominant in US with wide acceptance and high growth in UK also.The developing countries are still adapting to the e-commerce marketplace and it is expected that with its success in the US this will also prove to be revolutionary there also.

Who is a car mechanic?
A car mechanic - someone whose occupation is repairing and maintaining automobiles
auto-mechanic, automobile mechanic, grease monkey, mechanic
maintenance man, repairman, service man - a skilled worker whose job is to repair things

Opracował: Waldemar Pukaluk, nauczyciel języka angielskiego
Źródła:



Butchery
Definition:
The work of slaughtering animals and preparing them for sale as meat.
How to Slaughter Cattle
Method: Do-It-Yourself Home Slaughter
Make careful preparations for doing the slaughtering process. This will help you remain calm and make sure you make the euthanization process as quick and painless as possible. You will get a strong surge of adrenaline and emotional stress when the animal is killed, but make sure you learn to direct these feelings into doing the job right instead of letting them get the best of you and botching the job.Make sure the animal you are going to slaughter is of the right age to butcher. This is especially true with a steer or heifer that you have raised for beef. If you are or have finished a young animal on grain, aim to butcher when they are around 15 to even 18 months old. Some people prefer to butcher their cattle between 10 and 15 months of age. If they are finished on pasture, the best age to butcher is between 24 and 30 months of age.

Make sure you are slaughtering at the right time of year, or even day. Try to avoid slaughtering and butchering cattle, or any other animals, during fly season, which is typically between May and October in most countries except Australia. For some areas, you can butcher anytime between October and May, especially the areas that don't get much or any snow and temperatures remain 40 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius) during the day.
Consider which parts of the animal you want to keep before slaughtering. Some people like to use all parts of the animal for various uses. If you choose not to use the different parts available to use, the value is only in learning and experimenting, as well as knowing the possibilities of what you can save and use.

Locate the area where you are going to euthanize your beef animal. The best place would be in an area where it is most comfortable in, where you can easily get into with a tractor to haul it out, and were chances of bullet ricochet (a real danger if location is not thought out thoroughly enough) is minimal.
Load the gun and make sure the knife you have with you is razor sharp. A small rifle (.22 caliber) is sufficient for this step, or even a pistol (8 mm or .38 caliber). You don't need a large gun like you would need with hunting large animals from a great distance because you are not shooting at the bovine from a large distance.
Make the shot. There are two areas that you can aim for in making a quick and painless kill to the bovine: At an invisible X just above the eyes, or at the back of the head where the spinal cord and the medulla oblongata (part of the brain that controls all organ function) are located. The latter is ideal if the animal is down from injury or illness and is unable to get up, and the angle for a shot at the skull is too acute to make a proper kill. Either way, what's especially important is that you must make sure the shot you take is precise so that the bovine will not struggle nor feel any pain. You owe that animal, that has been in your care, to make its death as quick and painless as possible, so please try to make the first shot count the most so you don't have to do it again and allow the animal to suffer.

Cut the throat right after the animal goes down. With a very sharp knife (a hunting knife is recommended), insert just above the breast bone at a 45-degree angle toward the head, and make the cut outwards and away from you. You should have been able to severe the carotid artery and jugular vein in one movement
Remove the head and testes immediately. Removal of the testes is only applicable to the slaughter of bulls. This is so that the meat doesn't get tainted. Be careful when removing the testes because the animal may still be involuntarily kicking out. The head should be removed by cutting all the way around with the hunting knife, careful to keep the blade between the skin and flesh, never into the hair, and cutting outwards but never towards you.
Remove the front feet/lower leg. Stick the point of the knife into the knee-joint and cut outwards, keeping the point of the knife in the cartilage and cutting around, until you can completely remove the leg. Get the tractor. Make sure it has a front-end loader attached first, otherwise you won't be able to do dress the carcass, unless you can do it on the ground like with wild game (deer, moose, bear, etc). If you choose to use the latter, note that you could do this for skinning the front of the animal, but not for removing viscera and splitting the carcass.
Make slits between the achilles tendon (or gam cord) and the hock bone (equivalent to our ankle/heel) of the hind leg and insert a hook called the gambrel or beef hook into this slit, and repeat for the other hind leg. The two hooks should be attached to a beef-spreader or single-tree. Shackle the single-tree to chains and attach the chains to the loader. Raise the loader up as high as you are comfortable with so that the animal's head is both not dragging on the ground and at a sufficient height where you can start to work on the hind quarters.
Move the carcass to the designated slaughter area. This is where you will be able to do the rest of the slaughtering procedure. Make sure the area is located in a[n]:
  • Dry, dust-free and well-drained area.
  • Area not visible to the public, like from roads, neighbor's houses, etc.
  • Well-lit area, such as in a sunny spot or where you can access electricity if you have to do the slaughtering process in the evening or at night.
  • Sheltered area to protect yourself and the carcass from the elements like wind and precipitation.
Remove the hind feet and shanks. Skin the hind legs just like with removing the front legs mentioned above (only up to the hock joints, not past it), then saw through the bone below the hock (above the hock joint when you have the carcass hanging).

Start skinning the animal. You need to work from the back legs to the neck front to back. To do this use the following steps:
  • 1) Slip the short-pointed knife into the slit made at the gam cord and cut around the hock, cutting outwards.
  • 2) With the knife between the flesh and the skin, slice a line down each leg to the midline, then all the way down to the neck or dewlap.
  • 3) Using your skinning knife, begin at the junction where the leg cuts meet the mid-line cut. Grasp the hide with one hand and pull hard (out and down for hanging, up and out for carcasses on the ground) to create tension as you use your knife to separate the hide from the flesh. Place your knife firmly against the hide with the cutting edge turned towards the hide at a slight angle[6]. Keep pulling the hide away with your hand and keep slicing down and to the side until the belly and rib cage is completely skinned.
  • You may want to wash down this area at this point to
Remove the offal/viscera of the animal. You will need to first separate the large intestine from the body and tie it off, then remove the penis if it's a steer or bull you are butchering, then continue with the removal of the rest of the internal organs, as follows.
Split the carcass in half. Start by sawing through the sacral vertebrae from the inside and the cartilage that joins the pelvic bone. As soon as the pelvic area is cut through you can saw from the back, but some prefer to keep sawing through the back since the vertebrae is much easier to see in the front than the back, especially if the animal has a lot of back fat. Continue sawing to the neck. Cut down through the center of the brisket to cut the ribcage in half.
Clean the carcass with cold water to wash any excess blood and dirt off. You may have to trim any soiled, bruised or bloodied pieces of flesh off as well

Hang the carcass to age it. How long to age depends on the air temperature, fat covering and desired flavour. Most should hang the carcass to age for seven to five days (some say two weeks), longer if aging is done during the colder conditions and if there's more fat on the carcass. If the carcass is entirely covered in fat then it is recommended to hang longer than 10 days.
Equipment used in slaughtering

Opracował: Waldemar Pukaluk, nauczyciel języka angielskiego
Źródła: