The Benefits of Using Compost
(courtesy of Global Service Corps – BIA Program)
We all know that crops need a soil rich in fertility. Adding compost to your soil will provide some nutrients indeed, but its real benefit comes in the form of greater water and air holding ability. The billions of microbes found in just one handful of finished compost will add certain compounds to the soil which will cause the existing soil nutrients to be released in a slow and proper manner to the growing crops. Compost will provide these benefits with no additional cost – other than the time spent in the making. Synthetic fertilizers are valuable but extremely expensive, and the cost is repetitious. It is not a one-time cost. And, with repetitive use, these chemicals will deplete the naturally-occurring nutrients from the soil, creating an unhealthy dependency upon you to provide the nutrients, many of which are not readily available for sale (just try to buy an ounce of Molybdenum for example…) The BIA method deals with this problem by"growing" fertilizer – Compost!
The many advantages to using organic compost include:
*Improved soil structure for easier workability
*Resistance to erosion
*Allows crops to access nutrients in the soil more easily
*Compost mixed into soil makes crops healthier and increases their ability to resist disease. Most insects look for unhealthy crops to eat. Soil that is fortified with compost helps to have fewer unhealthy crops and therefore, less chance for infestation.
*Organic matter within compost feeds crops through nutrient exchange and nutrient release upon further decomposition.
*Compost creates a continual slow-release source of nutrients for crops.
*Organic acids in compost help dissolve minerals in the soil, making mineral nutrients more available to crops. These acids also increase the permeability of root membranes therefore also increasing the uptake of water and nutrients by roots.
*The bacteria which feeds on organic matter temporarily holds the soil together, thus improving the health and structure of the soil.
*All of the materials needed to successfully “grow” your own compost are readily available on most small farms. Compost is reliable and essentially free of cost, which is perhaps its greatest advantage.
*Using compost also cuts down on the need for chemical pesticides and fertilizers which can potentially be harmful to one's health as well as the health and sustainability of your soil.
Necessary Materials for Building Compost
There are really only a few materials necessary for the creation of quality compost. The first two materials are called "greens" and "browns." You will need to gather enough materials to make the pile in one “go”. This will require you to gather the browns after harvest season and save them till the rainy season when the greens are in abundance. An average pile will be one-third green and two-third brown.
"Greens" consist of organic materials that have been recently cut. For example, weeds that have been recently pulled from the ground, or tree leaves and green plant materials that have been recently cut. Basically green materials are called "green" because they are green in color. Food scraps are also considered "green" materials.
"Brown" materials are materials that are dry, and have already been breaking down for awhile. Grass, once cut and dried, is now considered a brown material as most of the nitrogen (the green) has been lost to the atmosphere.
The third component is manure from cows, pigs, chicken and/or sheep.
The fourth component is soil to add needed decomposing microbes. Finally, water is required to aid in the decomposition process.
Compost piles are built using a system of layering. Followed by a gentle mixing to make a homogenous mix. A minimum size for a compost pile is one meter by one meter.A pile that is smaller than that does not provide enough insulation, and the heat generated will escape.
Materials that should not be added to a compost pile:
- Plants infected with a disease or a severe insect attack where eggs could be preserved or where the insects themselves could survive in spite of the compost pile's heat.
- Poisonous plants, such as oleander, hemlock, or castor bean.
- Plants which have acids that are toxic to other plants and microbial life such as acacia, juniper, and eucalyptus.
- Plants which may be too acidic – like pine needles. (However, special compost piles can be created using acidic materials to lower the pH level in soils that do not have enough acid.)
- Invasive weeds such as wild morning glory, cuch grass, Bermuda grass, and/or black jack. These weeds may not breakdown in the pile and then when you spread the compost on your soil, you may be spreading their seeds as well.
- Manure from meat eating animals, like cats and dogs, which contain pathogens, are toxic to small children and adults alike.
How to Build a Compost Pile
The minimum size for a compost pile is one meter by meter. There is no maximum size; it really depends on how much space you have available and on how big of a pile you are willing to manage. Larger piles might however, take longer to decompose and take longer to produce quality compost.
The first step is to choose a good spot for your pile. The ideal spot will be a section of ground that is covered in shade. A shaded area helps to better regulate the heat created by the pile and aids in the decomposition process. However, if shade is not available, building your pile in the sun is not a problem, other than that it will likely dry out quicker and will require more management as a result.
Once you have found a good spot, it is necessary to clear the space of leaves, weeds and other debris so you can see clear soil. Next, you will want to loosen the soil to a depth of six to twelve inches using a fork or jembe. This provides the pile with a place for water to be absorbed.
The next step is to begin to build your first layer. It is important to understand that the first layer is going to be larger than the rest, and the brown materials used are going to be thicker than the rest. You will want to use brown maize stocks, twigs, and/or small branches for the first layer. Again, these materials provide the pile with good drainage. Stack up the brown maize stocks, branches or twigs, until you have a small pile that is roughly six inches thick and one meter squared. You have completed the first layer.
The second layer consists of one two-inch layer of green material. This should be piled directly on top of the first layer, covering it completely. Note: the second layer should be smaller than the first layer. Remember too, that if you have left over food scraps, add them to this layer. Subsequent additions of food scraps can be added once the pile is completed by opening a hole in the top and dumping them in.
The third layer is a layer of soil mixed with manure (and optionally, wood ash). This layer is very thin, only about one quarter to one half an inch thick.You only need to use enough to cover a small section directly in the middle of the pile about one foot by one foot. It is important to not use too much manure and to pile it directly in the middle of the pile. If you are using ash, you should follow this rule as well. Only a small amount should be applied to the center of the pile. Once you have placed the manure in the center, you can surround it with soil to cover the rest of the previous layer. This layer should always be thin and just lightly covering the previous layer.
The next step is to go ahead and add some water to your pile while gently mixing the lower layers together. You only want to add enough water so the pile remains damp, but not soaked. If it helps to remember, you want the pile to feel as wet as a sponge that has been squeezed.
Now, you are basically done with the different layers. You just need to repeat this process. A layer of dry, brown material four inches thick, followed by a layer of green material two inches thick, followed by a thin layer of soil mixed with either manure, ash and or both. Continue this layering process until your pile is one meter high.
The final layer should be made up of brown material that is about three inches thick. This helps to contain any smell that can sometimes occur during the decomposition process. It also helps keep curious animals away from your pile.
Allow to rest for 3 weeks. Then mix everything together and reform the pile, adding water to keep moist if necessary. Mix once per week. By the end of two months you will be left with compost that looks like loose, dark, rich soil. Spread a 1” layer over yourdouble dug beds; mix it into the top 6”; and then stand back and admire how healthy and vigorous your crops are!