Parktown Heritage Journal
Issue No. 4
Editor: William Gaul
Published by:
Johannesburg Heritage Foundation
ISBN 978-0-620-51094-3
All correspondence in connection with this Journal should be addressed to:
The Editor
Johannesburg Heritage Journal
Johannesburg Heritage Foundation
21 Rockridge Road
Parktown 2193
CONTENTS
Page
EDITORIAL……………………………………………………………………3
1918 MOTOR TRIP TO St LUCIA……………………………………4
A LETTER TO MY SISTER By Sarah Welham……………….10
MELVILLE MEMORIES cont.By William Gaul……………..15
THE CAFÉ DE MOVE-ON By Costa Phitidis………………….19
REVIEW ……………………………………………………………………..24
EDITORIAL
In this edition of the Journal, we take great pride and pleasure in publishing – for the first time – writings by the illustrious Dr Percy Stewart, who, among other important works, was the founder of the Krugersdorp Hospital, which - for reasons of political expediency - is now known as the Dr Yusuf Dadoo Hospital.
While many of us today undertake a journey to the KwaZulu-Natal coast without giving the prospect too much thought, matters were somewhat different in 1918, when Dr Stewart and his family, accompanied by another Krugersdorp stalwart, Mr JP du Toit, set off from Johannesburg by road to St Lucia. Dr Stewart drove a Studebaker, while Mr du Toit travelled in a Ford. Thorough preparation – including the packing of tools and spares, including several tyres, was essential before leaving on what can only be described as an adventure into the virtually unknown. Dr Stewart’s diary recording his journey should give the blasé traveller of today pause for thought, particularly when irritated by matters such as toll gates and speed limits.
The Journal recognises that early Johannesburg was a melting pot of many different peoples and cultures – and we are keen to record the experiences of various communities and individuals who, together, create the mosaic that is our City today. The Greek, or more precisely, Cypriot, community was one which enriched our culture immeasurably, not only in terms of the Orthodox religion that they brought with them, but also the contribution they made to making food-stuffs available to a hungry populace – whether by means of the very early “café de move-on” that is the subject of the article that appears herein, or by later enterprises such as the corner stores known colloquially as “Greek shops”, and also larger catering concerns. Many of the descendants of these early pioneers have, of course, made their very considerable mark in professions such as medicine, the law, and academia.
Costa Phitidis’ account of the experiences of his ancestor, Constantinos Phitidis, and his family in early Johannesburg, is published as it was relayed by him to Sarah Welham.
We publish something entirely different in this edition, which gives an insight into the work of the intrepid ladies who carry out heritage research into the inner areas of the City. Sarah Welham’s letter, in which she describes her and her colleagues’ adventures as they explore the original suburbs of Johannesburg, is a real eye-opener.
The second part of a reminiscence on the old suburb of Melville (the first part of which appeared in the second edition of the Journal), is published here, and finally, as a first of what is hoped will be many, we publish a review of Menache & David’s A Platteland Pilgrimage.
Readers are reminded that contributions, no matter how short, on any aspect of Johannesburg’s heritage, would be gratefully received.
1918 DIARY OF A MOTOR TRIP TO ST. LUCIA LAKE
Dr Percy Stewart
Note: the original punctuation has been retained in the interests of authenticity.
Saturday June 29th. 1918.
Met Mr. J. P. du Toit in Johannesburg, as arranged, and left at 3p.m. Mr.Mrs.du Toit, with their son and daughter in a FORD CAR. Our party, consisting of wife, Self, Miss. Mitchell, Miss. Morton and three children, together with Sausage in box on running board in STUDEBAKER. The necessary baggage, karosses, blankets, cushions, guns and food took up all available space and, together with three spare wheels, spare axle, half a dozen tubes, chains, spade and tools of all sorts, made a very heavy load.
We found the road good and easy on tyres and made a comfortable run to Heidelberg (33 miles by 4.45p.m.). Put up as arranged at Grand Hotel – Mr Gladwyn doing his best for us.
JUNE 30th. Left Heidelberg 9a.m. for Volksrust. Road not very good at Greylingstad a particularly bad drift. This latter was, with a little difficulty, easily negotiated. (We made enquiries regarding road to Val Station, as suggested by Automobile Club Journal, but were strongly advised by local people to keep to the Main Road). We were now a fleet of five cars. A CADILLAC Mr.Mrs. And Miss Rugg and Mr. G. Arthur;- a SUNBEAM Dr. and Mrs.Thwartes, - a MAXWELL having joined us. Standerton was reached by 2.30 where Mr. Stewart of the Masonic Hotel gave us an excellent lunch. Off again with a good road to Paardekop where we found a fairly steep hill. Gave children tea on top and allowed cars behind to pass us. Here we had a mishap. It was already dusk and, without waiting to study the maps of the T.A.C., we followed some very distinct Motor tracks of what we thought was the Cadillac and unfortunately kept to the west of the line finding ourselves, after some five miles or so, at Mr. van der Merwe’s farm. Mr. van der Merwe very kindly wished us to stay the night as he said we would not reach Volksrust but we retraced our path back to the Railway crossing and crossed as shown on Map, taking care to keep to right to avoid the road to Amersfoort but, unfortunately, after travelling another five miles, on an excellent road, we came to another farm where Mr.Meake, the owner, told us we were again wrong. He also invited us to stay but we sorrowfully turned back to the same old crossing again where, after some more time lost trying to find another road, a Kafir put us right. The road to Volksrust is here much smaller and quite insignificant compared to the Amersfoort road. In the meanwhile we had, by the light of the head lamps, undone valises and taken out extra blankets and karosses; the night being bitterly cold. We eventually arrived at Volksrust at 10.30 and having discovered the Transvaal Hotel were happy once more.
July 1st. Volksrust.
We were here advised to give up our plan of travelling via Wakkerstroom to Vrijheid and to take the road to NEWCASTLE, UTRECHT, BLOOD RIVER instead which, although considerably longer, was said to be much better. We were now by ourselves; the Cadillac departing for Melmoth and Eshowe; the Sunbeam for Durban whilst the Maxwell had stayed behind at Paardekop to travel later. We found the road to Newcastle hilly with very beautiful scenery. Newcastle 12.30 p.m. No stop as we wished to make Utrecht for lunch. On a portion of new road, heavy with loose metal fourteen miles from Utrecht, the Ford Cat travelling in front swerved, hit catchwater and turned over. We were greatly relieved to see the 4 occupants get up but found that the front axle was very badly bent. After some delay, we took Mrs. and Miss. du Toit in our car and reached Utrecht at 2 p.m. Here we found an excellent Garage, the Manager of which immediately sent back aid in the form of a new axle, etc.
After some discussion, we decided to try to get to Vrijheid, as arranged, so we pushed on for Sandspruit where we found a large bridge but the road was rather difficult. Reached Blood River at dusk with mudguards of car bumping on rear wheels owing to excessive load. Bridge at Bloodriveralright but road on far side washed away and new road still under construction. Extremely heavy with sand.
We, however, reached Vrijheid in the dark about 7 p.m. and put up at the President Hotel where Mr. Norris made us perfectly comfortable.
July 2nd.
Mr. and Master du Toit arrived about 9 a.m. having started before sunrise from Utrecht. Did not leave until midday and being told we could not make Nongoma that day as the road was too bad. Decided to push on a bit and stop at Lillia’s Store about 37 miles distant. Very bad road after first twelve miles but struggled on and about dusk enquired of the only person we met the whereabouts of the Store. He told us it was a few miles further on, so off again and later on arrived at a farm, the first on this road, which we thought was our destination. Information here was disappointing. We must leave the main road and travel on a veldt track, almost invisible, over the hill when we would findLutche’s. We noticed the light difference in name but thought out recollection of name was incorrect. This we did with much misgiving and having gone over two hills and traversed two valleys, arrived at a farm which we found was Lutche’s. We explained to Mrs Lutche that we had been directed to her house as it was impossible to reach Nongoma and apologised for our numbers. We were most hospitably received and supper given us in three relays owing to the smallness of room, limited number of plates, etc. and the fact that there were other guests staying there. It was only at the conclusion of this meal that we discovered during the course of conversation that our hostess was Mrs.Lutchie (Ludevic) de Jager, wife of a large Stockfarmer from Vrijheid, and that Lillia’s Store was further on the Main Road. Explanations and apologies during which Mr. de Jager arrived and instead of being annoyed welcomed us most heartily and producing tobacco and a bottle invited us to further cheer.
July 3rd. Left at daybreak after a cup of coffee all round. Trouble at once. Road extremely hilly and, what was worse, recently repaired !!!in parts. However, the cars managed to overcome these. We had been told at de Jager’s of one hill in particular which was unusually bad and when we at length struck it we were appalled to find it quite as steep as Muldersdrift but with from 2 to 3 feet of loose heavy red sand covering its entire surface. It had been repaired! This we found impossible to negotiate as the cars sank deep in the soil but, luckily, the road party were still working at the top. The Ford was towed up by a team of donkeys and the Studebaker pushed up by a team of 16 boys. 2 ½ Hours taken on this hill. The country now became altogether mountainous and the scenery very grand but extraordinarily desolate. Mountains everywhere with huge valleys and small waterfalls. The road, which was wonderfully good, being cut on the sides of the mountains with a sheer drop of many hundreds of feet; very similar to the sea around the Cape Peninsula. We found we had to climb mountain after mountain lowest gear all the way up and then suddenly downhill again with lowest gear in spark cut off and hand and foot brake hard on. The down grade was much more trying than climbing. We appeared to make almost a complete circuit in this manner of a large valley but having accomplished this arrived at last at Nongoma at 3p.m. Here we found a large Court House and Police Post, the Office of the Conservor of Game where we obtained shooting licenses and a Store and Hotel combined. They were very astonished to hear we had come throughfrom Vrijheid. Vrijheid to Nongoma 70 odd miles.Nongoma to Hlabisa 36 miles and another 18 on to Somkele, where my brother was waiting for us and we were one day behind our programme.Decided to get on to Hlabisa.
We now passed out of the mountains into level country with a beautiful road and the run from Nongoma was so excellent that we did not stop at Hlabisa but went right through in the dark to Somkele, the terminus of the North Coast Line from Durban, arriving at 10.30p.m. Here we found the Station, usually deserted, full of people and, apparently celebrating several birthdays simultaneously. Four gentlemen relinquished two small rooms to the ladies and children of our parties. du Toit and Marais slept on the verandah and my brother and I having fixed up car and removed front seats had, I think, the best beds of all.
4th July.
Up early and decided to attempt to motor to Matubatuba. One station down line, 12 miles distant by rail where our wagon was waiting. Unfortunately there is no road but with spade and hatchets we rendered two dry river beds passable for the cars. We then reached the Ntsane River which had, we were previously informed, wagon drift and stony bottom. This was quite fallacious as I immediately sank down to the axles in black clay. More spade work which proved ineffectual and we had to obtain boys from neighbouring kraals to help. We took this opportunity, however, to have a meal and after considerable delay got going again. We did not reach Mtubatuba till after 4 o’ clock where a further misfortune awaited us.
My brother had sent his trusty IndunaPongoa from Somkele by rail the night we arrived with some cases of provisions to the wagon at Mtubatuba and to tell the driver to wait our arrival there but he was so much impressed by the Motor Cars that, having delivered the cases, he said something equivalent to “GO ON! DO NOT DELAY!!! The baas is coming on in the car”, etc. Consequently we found that the wagon had left that morning and we were in an awkward fix – no food – no place to sleep. There was nothing for it but to overtake the wagon as soon as possible. The country here is almost flat – sandy, with innumerable pans, of brackish water and swamps. There is no road except a wagon track in the sand, two deep ruts, too sandy for the cars to travel in. Our plan was to keep on the veld beside this track.
Off again without delay only to find a huge mud drift which after several attempts, we found could not be circumvented. Luckily we obtained a wagon at Mtubatuba which towed the two cars through but valuable time had been lost and it was getting dark. Off again, but slowly, as whenever we tried to increase our speed a bump into an ant-bear-hole hidden in the grass warned us to hasten slowly. It was very slow going, but worse was before us. In the distance was a huge veldt fire extending along the horizon on our right hand –that is to the South; and although there was a North wind blowing it soon invaded our track so that we had to deviate further to the left to avoid it. We entered some high grass in doing so and I immediately got bogged.
It would take at least ¼ hour to dig car out and the fire only 20 yards away, now was advancing rapidly. There was not a moment to loose, but by means of our canvas valises we managed to beat out the flames near us and, having got the car out, drove onto the burnt area for safety.
It was hard and thirsty work and having had a pretty heavy day we decided to go no further in the dark but to start at day break and overtake the wagon.
Everyone was thirsty and although we had a bottle of whisky the water bottles were empty. We drank some of the water kept in an old oil can for the Engine and prepared for bed. The front seats of the Car being taken out, the hood put up and the side flaps adjusted and electric inspection lamp hung inside the car makes a good sleeping apartment which, on this occasion, was overcrowded. The others slept outside which I found all right till about 2 a.m. when the heavy dew made me re-adjust the waterproof sheets.
Anxious night- was the wagon really in front? Could it possibly have travelled so far? Distance uncertain since both speedometers broken by tow ropes. Also on tomorrows track there was a large pan through which the cars could not travel and the wagon driver had guaranteed he could guide the cars round it by making a deviation from the track. If we failed to catch the wagon we should be stuck with nothing for it but to walk many miles without anything to eat and wade through pans perhaps carrying children.
Petro was getting rather low.
July 5th.
Up at day break and walked on with brother to try and find wagon. Found it only two miles ahead with tent and everything aboard, so returned at once and brought cars along when coffee and food were quickly made ready. After the usual delay of catching and inspanning the donkeys we started off with some of the passengers and baggage on the wagon to lighten the car. We kept ahead of the rest as I had, as I anticipated, to be pulled out of the bog on two occasions; the Ford being much lighter was able to get through unassisted.
Later in the afternoon the driver, leaving the team to another boy to drive, walked ahead of the cars to the right of the track round some low hills making a wide deviation of the big pan we had feared. This was successfully accomplished and the wagon rejoined when we went ahead and arrived at our destination for the day – Mr. Brodie’s Store.
All along this portion of the journey, that is from Matubatuba, we saw numerous buck, Pauw and Korhaan.
The store is built on the high land immediately overlooking St. Lucia Lake – a fine sheet of water 35 miles wide. Just opposite the Store the lake narrows to 1 ½ miles and this part is used as a pond.