Corsetry QA Guide
Product Development
When developing new styles, a detailed specification will be given indicating styling, construction detail, fabrics and trims. This will ensure that all materials selected for costing will be suitable for the size range required.
Images below show examples from the document.
Lab Dips
Lab Dips must all be submitted into the buying team and the buyer will approve/reject and feedback any comments to the supplier. Please do not send to the Technologist for approvals.
Sealing Procedure
Model / Sample Sizes
It is vital that all samples submitted to JD Williams for fitting are the correct sizes for the in-house models as noted in the following:
Soft Non-Structured Corsetry + Swimwear
First Fit Sample:
Size 12, Medium or a 12/14, (in the case of a dual size item). This size must be submitted regardless as to whether there is a size 12/Medium in the size range or not. This enables quicker and more accurate fit comments.
Photographic Sample:
Following the comments from the first fit sample, photographic samples will be required in the following sizes:
Where possible, to reduce sampling, the first fit samples will be used as a photographic sample. However please check “notes” and/or events screen on
Tradestone buying brief for any special/different requirements before proceeding.
Swimwear:
JDW’s and FW: 1x12 in each selected colour.
Front and Back body length : +3cm
Simply Be:
1x16 in each selected colour, with following additional lengths added:
Sleeve length: +2.5cms to full length sleeve
Tunics: +5cms upto 39” (99cms) and shorter. +7.5cms over 39” (99cms)
Body Length: +2.5cms
Second Fit Sample: Size 16, Xlarge or a 16/18 (in the case of a dual size item)
Third Fit Samples: Size 22, 4XL or a size 20/22. (in the case of a dual size item)
The technologist may also request a size 26/6XL or a 32/9XL
depending upon the size range and style.
Structured Corsetry + Swimwear
First Fit Sample:34C Counter sample
Photographic Sample:
Following the comments from the first fit sample, photographic samples will be required in the following sizes
Where possible, to reduce sampling, the first fit samples will be used for photographic. However please check buying brief for any special/different requirements before proceeding.
Bras/Cup sized swimwear: 2 x 34C
Briefs: 2 x size 12
Second Fit Sample: 34C + 34D
Next Fit Samples:
During the Fitting Trip– DD, E, F and G (This is dependant on size range of style and models available). These cups all have to be fitted, however the technologist will advise the back sizes to submit when requesting the samples, as this is dependant on the model sizes available for that season.
Extra Fit Samples for Extended Size Ranges: For UK models H, J, K, L.
Any fit samples submitted into JD Williams, which do not fall into the above sizes will not be fitted.
.
All sealing sample submissions must have:
1.A full size chart with size discrepancies clearly marked.
2.The JD Williams sample card attached. A blank copy can be provided by your relevant QA
You can have these sample cards printed at a printer of your choice. All information on the card, where appropriate, should be completed. The card should be positioned and tagged through the back neck, waistband label or other sew-in labels where they are available. Where this is not possible it should be attached to the garment in a prominent position, such as, through the waistband seam on the front of the garment or through the back neck seam on tops. Please minimise any fabric damage.
Please address all sealing samples to:
Buyers / Technologists name
Merchandise Department
JD Williams
Griffin House
40 Lever Street
Manchester
M60 6ES
Please inform the relevant Technologist by phone or e-mail whenever samples have been dispatched.
All rejected sealing samples must be resubmitted within 14 days of receipt of rejection report.
Production must not commence until sealing approval has been received from the relevant technologist.
Additional Samples:
For new lines please send sample of Packaged item in correct packaging materials/swing tickets/card inserts. This must be at Pre-Packaging stage to confirm that the correct folding method/packaging materials are being used for Production.
ADDITIONAL SEALING COMMENTS
First fit samples should be submitted to the relevant technologist in the base size (34C or size 12/medium) and in the correct base fabrics/components and preferably correct print as agreed at the Buying stage. On approval of fit and aesthetics, Grades will then commence.
Corsetry guidelines for Grade rules, Component Sizing and measurement requirements will be sent out to you for costing new development.
Where time allows we shall use the photographic samples as 1st fit samples to reduce sampling therefore it is crucial that the relevant technologist is made aware when these samples are sent to the buyer.
Fabrics/ Components to be Bulk quality if possible, and in the correct colour. If not
possible to use correct colour then please use white or black – whichever is nearest in shade to the correct colour.
Grade samples should be representative of the standard of bulk production. From this graded set 3 garments will be taken for Final seals. One will remain at JD Williams Head Office, one to be sent to our warehouse and the other returned to the Supplier to use as the standard against which Bulk Production must conform.
All samples sent must state the Supplier name, Catalogue number and Size. A JD Williams sample tag should be attached to the garment and all relevant information should be completed. - See above. Please note any alternative fabrics/components used on samples accordingly to allow for identification during fitting.
Live models, in a selection of sizes are used by JD Williams to fit samples on a weekly basis with comments being sent after fitting within 48 hours.
Sealing samples must be submitted along with a size chart, which has a diagram showing where the measurements relate to on the garment. It should be in the correct format and terminology and with a garment report recording Supplier’s measurements of the garments being submitted for fit.
Production fabric to be submitted with an Approved Laboratory Test Report 3 weeks
prior to production commencing. (Tests agreed at Buying Stage). All Tests must be carried out on immediate receipt of bulk fabrics, prior to cutting, to allow time to resolve issues effectively.
All pre-shipment samples must be sent from first production run and labelled/packaged as intended to be despatched at least 7 days prior to the order despatch date from factory. Approval must be given from JD Williams before despatching order. Samples will also be assessed for fit and packaging.
Pre-shipment samples are not required on repeat orders unless specifically requested by technologist.
RI (re-included) lines for a new season are only re-sealed if there are any issues with
the quality / returns rate.
Customised Mannequins
Programme Information & Benefits
J D Williams is a founder member of SizeUK – the UK National Sizing Survey, and have used the data to update and amend their size charts. In order to fully implement the results and benefits of SizeUK, Sizemic has worked with J D Williams to develop a range of customised fit mannequins. These are based on SizeUK measurement and 3D shape data, specifically for their customer profile. J D Williams is now using these mannequins as the fit standard for the brand. The objective is to maximise consistency and accuracy of fit across their supply chain and speed up the product development process. There are considerable benefits for suppliers who participate in this programme. Shape is the critical factor, since shape is more important to achieving good fit than pure measurements. These mannequins are an essential product development and QA communication tool and will bring several benefits for suppliers and a good return on the investment:-
An established fit standard - all suppliers fitting on the same body shape
Improved garment fit (potentially in all sizes)
Higher percentage of first fit approvals
Reduced fit model time and costs
Fewer sample submissions - lower sample costs
Reduced sample shipping/courier costs
Shorter development times
Programme Details
Sizemic produce high quality, consistently accurate, fit mannequins which include many unique features as standard e.g. soft tummy, collapsible hips and red measurement lines.
Sizes: 12, 16, 22 & 28 – this covers the full JD Williams size range and will enable users of all 4 sizes to improve the consistency and accuracy of fit in all sizes. This is particularly relevant to the larger sizes where shape is especially critical and truly representative models hard to find.
Mannequin Types: Full body & Half Body. Full Body mannequins are suspended on an adjustable metal stand at the neck and cover all garment types. Half body mannequins are supported on an adjustable metal stand at the base and are more practical for tops.
Standard Features of the mannequins include retractable shoulders, left & right detachable shoulder caps, soft tummy, retractable hips – these are designed to make fitting trousers and jeans much easier, red measurement lines and adjustable metal stand.
Optional features are left & right detachable arms
Sales Enquiries: Tel: +44 (0)20 3051 2644 E-mail:
CRITICAL DATES
To ensure the sealing process is carried out within the time scale allowed, a critical path follows. This highlights the whole process from the initial concepts bought during the buyers’ shopping trips, through to the date that the catalogues go live to our customers.
In order to achieve this, a maximum lead-time of 2 weeks is allowed for the turn around of re-submission samples.
We are allowing 4 – 6 weeks production time for all styles. It is the supplier’s responsibility to inform the relevant technologist, buyer and merchandiser of any styles, which may require longer production time and the reason for this.
For underwired styles it may be necessary to allocate additional staggered production slots to allow the time required to seal these garments.
We are also allowing 4-weeks sea freight for delivering the goods into our warehouse. Please note that any initial deliveries, which miss the deadline date for sea freighting, will have to be air freighted to ensure they are received in to our warehouse in time for our launch date.
HLCC CARE CODES
HLCC Codes should be available from the fabric supplier who will have performed lab tests on all cloth. These must meet the recommendations as outlined in ISO 3758:1991.
Underneath the symbols special phrases may be added to help the customer to launder garments correctly – See Appendix III.
Underneath the symbols special phrases may be added to help the customer to launder garments correctly - see appendix.
The appropriate Technologist following approval of fabric tests and garment styling will approve the suppliers suggested wash care instructions and advise amendments where necessary. It must be remembered that the care instructions should appear as a selling feature and NOT as a safety net for poor quality. All Trims must be compatible with the care instructions of the garment and to all relevant safety standards.
FABRIC TESTING
It is the responsibility of the supplier to ensure that all fabrics, components and garments perform to the required standards of JD Williams.
These standards are specified on the JD Williams Textile Performance Stats Manual and you may be asked to submit one or more of the tests for approval. Only a JD Williams approved test house can be used – see below for details. In some cases, reports will be accepted from reputable fabric suppliers and this must be agreed with the Technologist prior to the submission of these reports.
SGS Hong Kong Ltd.
5-8/F & 28F Metropole Square,
2 On Yiu Street,
Siu Lek Yuen,
Shatin,
N.T.,
Hong Kong
Tel: (00) 852 2334 4481
Fax: (00) 852 2144 7001
Intertek Testing Services Hong Kong Ltd.
9/c Garment Centre,
576 Castle Peak Road,
Kowloon
Hong Kong
Tel: (00) 852 2173 8888
Fax: (00) 852 2786 9559
Bureau Veritas Hong Kong Ltd.
Pacific Trade Centre,
1st Floor,
2 Kai Hing Road
Kowloon Bay
Kowloon
Hong Kong
Tel: (00) 852 233 10888
Fax: (00) 852 233 10889
Any requested test reports must be submitted to and approved by the relevant Technologist along with the actual physicals (tested fabric swatches) before any production commences.
Testing should be undertaken as soon as Bulk fabric is received and prior to cutting.
Re-testing of fabrics may be requested if a fabric fails to meet with JD Williams standards. If a bulk test report highlights a possible issue, the garment supplier is
responsible for re-finishing or replacing the faulty fabric/component.
All testing charges are the responsibility of the supplier.
GARMENT COMPONENTS
4.1 Fabrics & Shade Matching
Fabrics
- It is essential that bulk fabric is as contracted - with respect to weight, construction, fibre content, design, colour and handle.
- Fabric must perform adequately for its end use. All performance standards must be strictly adhered to.
- Gusset linings where used should be plain single jersey cotton unless otherwise agreed.
- Lace panels should be paired.
Shade Matching Procedures
- All shade matching by the fabric supplier, the garment manufacturer and J D Williams should be carried out in a VERIVIDE (or similar) LIGHT Box (colour matching cabinet). The cabinet should be kept clean and painted smoke grey (ref. 14.40 Crown).
- The tubes available in the cabinet must include:-
1) Artificial daylight D65
2) Tungsten
3) UV
4) Natural daylight
5) TL84
6) TL83
Tubes should be replaced after 2000 hours.
- Comparison should also be made in natural daylight.
Shade Continuity
Once the first bulk batch has been approved, this becomes the colour standard and the lab dip discarded. For repeat orders / fabric batches, J D Williams suppliers should use the continuity card system. Batch to batch variation will be judged commercially but to one side of the standard - Not both sides
Copies of colour continuity cards and also cuttings of cloth from each batch must be submitted to the relevant buying team for approval. If shade within a batch varies we need to see the lightest, darkest and also mid shade.
Components
All trims/ components used must be compatible with the care instructions of the garment and all relevant safety standards. They should also match in shade to the main fabric.
A cutting of all bulk components, trims, wire casings etc. should be gathered, attached to a card, and then checked under the Light Box for colour compatibility with the main body fabric.
Hook & Eyes, Popper tapes
• Hook & Eye tape should be plush back.
• Popper tapes must be applied in strip form with ends turned down and lock stitched. Finished edge must be clean and secure with no sharp edges.
Elastics & Bindings
• Elastic trims should contain elastane not rubber.
• Over cup seam binding stabilizers & linings must contain multifilament yarns.
Bows and Motifs
• Bow ends should be heat-sealed.
• They should be attached with a spot tack, not a bar tack.
Ribbon
• Cut ends should be heat-sealed.
Rings & Sliders
• Rings and sliders must be enamel coated metal.
• All should be Nickel compliant
Bra Padding
• Non-yellowing Foams & Pads must be used. (Where agreed at the Buying Stage)
Wires & Casings
• Wires should be double galvanised or coated to prevent rusting.
• The wire tip should be polyamide coated not resin coated, which can chip off during bar tacking wear and washing.
• Wire casing should match body fabrics in terms of shrinkage allowance and include 2 elements, either a preformed inner tube encased in an outer fold, (both fabrics need to be knitted) or 2 fabrics folded together to form an inner and outer casing, again both fabric types need to be knitted. A single casing is acceptable only in the case of ‘Fortitube’ casing available.
• Minimum 1.5 cm wire play required.
Threads
JD Williams specify Coats threads for all sewing operations (see appendix VII).
• All threads within one garment should be the same dye matches.
• Monofilament thread must not be used.
• Coats must be informed of any special needs required for a garment.
• As a general rule all sewing threads must be compatible with the performance of the fabric being sewn.
• Colourfast, matching threads must be used throughout production.
• When contrast threads are used these will be agreed as part of the style detail.
• Coats have their own consultants, technical services and research labs.
“Coats Epic” 100% polyester / polyester core spun threads are used as follows:
Ticket number 80 - heavy garments
Ticket number 120 - general purpose
Ticket number 180 - fine fabrics
Nylon or polyester continuous filament bulked threads; ticket numbers 80 and 160 are used for over lock neatening, and seam cover stitching and hemming where stretch is required.
Zips
All zips used should be from an approved source. These are; YKK, SBM and Opti. If it is necessary to use zips from an inferior source these must be submitted to an approved laboratory for thorough testing to BS3084. The approved test report should then be sent to the relevant Technologist with a sample of the zipper and the name and address of the zip supplier.
- Zip tape should match self-fabric.
- Zips should be nylon unless otherwise stated.
- If it is necessary to use continuous zipping please ensure that the recommended top and bottom stops are used and that coil/teeth stripping is done correctly.
- Zip lengths/openings will be specified on size charts.
- Auto lock zips are to be used.
- The zip approved at the sealing stage must be used in production.
- When inserting zips adequate slider clearance from the seam must be allowed to achieve efficient operation - 3mm is usually adequate.
- Great care must be taken to avoid fabric distortion and pucker when inserting zips.
Buttons