Befexhausts Cans for the Futura: Manual

Befexhausts cans for the Futura: manual

take off the seat.
Undo the three bolts for the rear light unit.

Carefully put the rear light unit on the plastic tray for the duration of the procedure.
Put the bolts back into their holes so you don’t lose them.
Take off the pannier/hard bag supports. Three bolts can be spotted from the top.

The fourth one is underneath. They can be very tight so be careful.
Take out the bolts of the license plate bracket. At this time, you could disconnect the power supply cable for the light as well as we’ll be re-routing that slightly. The connector for that is on the right-hand side next to the battery box. Take off the heat shields as well. There’s a third bolt on the front of the heat shield.
Put the heat shields somewhere safe so they don’t get damaged in any way.

Loosen the bolts on the front of the stock exhaust can. Make sure they’re nice and loose so it’ll slide right off.

Now loosen the bolt and nut that hold the exhaust can up. Take the bolt out, some gentle upward persuasion of the can might be needed to have the bolt slide out.

Pull the can backwards and it’ll come right off. Make sure you don’t lose either of the two rubbers needed to align and hold the front of the stock can as you’ll need them for your new cans too. Make sure they’re in their holder and keep them there.

If the can doesn’t want to come off because of excess of dirt, just take off the springs of the linkpipes and the links will come off with the can. Put the link pipes back before you start fitting your new cans.

Now take your new bracket and put it into place by using the supplied bolt, washers and nut. Don’t tighten it yet!

Check to see if the rubber’s in place…..

Take the cans out and put masking tape on them first so you don’t damage them during the fitting. Make sure the aluminium bushing is in place. You need that to adapt to the small bore linkpipes. If you have our big bore links, leave the bushing out.

You can put the bushing on the linkpipe or leave it in the can before you put it on. Doesn’t make much difference.

Put the clamps on the respective cans. Just tighten them enough so they don’t slide off when you’ll put on the cans. Make sure you’ll be able to reach them with your spanner when you have to…

* Now slide the cans over the end of the linkpipes and into the rubbers one at a time. The cans are marked ‘L’ or ‘R’ on the side of the clamp (ie the front) so you’ll always have the right can. Make sure they’re seated into their rubbers.

Don’t tighten anything yet! You now need to align the cans so they fit the new bracket at the rear. You can do that by twisting them whilst making sure they stay seated in the rubber in the front. If you need to make any forward adjustments, DO NOT use a hammer! Just slap the end cap with the palm of your hand, otherwise you’ll damage it. When you’re happy with the alignment, put one of the four bolts into the top mounting bracket so the can doesn’t move anymore. Don’t tighten it yet. Put the other bolts in when you’re happy with the alignment. Don’t tighten those yet either.

Take a step back and check the alignment again. If you’re satisfied with your work, tighten all bolts and clamps. Don’t forget to re-fit the springs for the linkpipes, should you have taken these off. Don’t go nuts on the four bolts of the top mounting bracket. They screw into threaded aluminium rivets and the bolts are stainless steel. You can tighten them easily without using excessive force. Be careful you don’t damage the thread of the rivets!

The aluminium bushings provide a nicely sealed fit around the linkpipes. There’s no need to use any silicone.

Put the hard bag/pannier brackets back on. Make sure the bolts are nice and tight.

Use the stock threaded clips of the original can and fit them to the new can’s brackets. You will note there isn’t one for the front heat shield hole but that’s not a flaw in the design as you’ll find out further on in the text.

Now put the stock license plate/illumination bracket back on but don’t forget the heat shields that go underneath the bracket. They’re easier to fit now that there are only two bolts to put in and once you’ve tightened everything you’ll find the heat shields don’t move at all. They’re well secure without the third bolt. And there’s one major advantage: you can take the heat shields off for cleaning without having to take off the pannier/hard bags mounting brackets.

Route the power supply cable between the cans and next to the rear light cable. You can take roughly the same routing as the rear light cable and finish the job with some tie-wraps.

Put the seat back on and push the starter button… enjoy!