Jacket, Soft Shell Cold Weather (Gen Iii)

INCH-POUND

GL/PD-06-05 5 July 2006

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

JACKET, SOFT SHELL COLD WEATHER (GEN III)

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a soft shell jacket, which

serves as a layer of the GEN III ECWCS.

1.2 Classification.The jacket shall be of one type in the following sizes, as specified (see 6.2).

SCHEDULE OF SIZES

Size Small Medium Large X-Large

RegularXX X X

Long X X

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of

this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government Documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications,

standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

V-T-295 - Thread, Nylon

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 – Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-55126 - Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic

AA-A-55634 - Zipper, (Fastener, Slide Interlocking)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-STD-129 – Military Marking for Shipment and Storage

MIL-PRF-5038 - Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing Nylon

MIL-W-5664 – Webbing, Textile, Elastic

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

MIL-F-10884 – Fasteners, Snap

(Copies of these documents are available from the Acquisition Streamlining and Standardization Information System (ASSIST) database, online at or or the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Ave.Philadelphia, PA19111-9054).

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

U.S.ARMYNATICKSOLDIERCENTER

DRAWINGS

2-1-2519 – Universal Camouflage Pattern

(Copies of drawings are available from the U.S. Army Natick Soldier Center, ATTN: AMSRD-NSC-IP-E, Kansas St., Natick, MA 01760-5019)

CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS

16 CFR Part 1500 – Federal Hazardous Substances Act Regulations

29 CFR Part 1910 – Occupational Safety and Health Standards

(Copies of these documents are available online at: or from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, North capitol & “H” Streets, N.W., Washington, DC 20402-0002.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC-8- Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method

AATCC-16- Colorfastness to Light

AATCC-22- Water Repellency: Spray Test

AATCC-61 - Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated

AATCC-70- Water Repellency: Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption

AATCC-96 - Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of Woven and

Knitted Fabrics, Except Wool

AATCC-135 - Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Woven

and Knitted Fabrics, Except Wool

AATCC–150 - Dimensional Changes in Automatic HomeLaundering of Garments

(Copies of these documents are available from or American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Triangle Park, NC27709-2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM)

ASTM D-737 -Air Permeability ofTextile Fabrics

ASTM D-747 - Apparent Bending Modulus of Plastics by Means of a

Cantilever Beam

ASTM D-751 -Coated Fabrics

ASTM D-1424 - Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum Type

Apparatus

ASTM D-1776 -Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles

ASTM D-3776 -Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D-5034 -Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab

Test)

ASTM D-6193 -Practice of Stitches and Seams

ASTM E-96 -Water Vapor Transmission of Materials

(Application for copies are available from or American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, WestConshohocken, PA19428-2959.)

AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(For all inquiries, please contact the American National Standards Institute, 25 West 43rd Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10036. Website address

(Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.)

NATIONAL AEROSPACE STANDARD(NASM)

NASM 20652/1B - Eyelets, Metallic, and Eyelet Washers, Metallic-FSC 5325

(Application for copies are available from the Aerospace Industries Association, 1250 Eye Street NW, Washington, DC20005.)

MISCELLANEOUS

Principle and Methods of Toxicology, A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 394-396, 1989.

(Copies of this document is available from Raven Press, 1185 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036)

Marzulli, F. and H. Maibach, “Contact Allergy: Predictive Testing in Humans,”

Advances in Modern Toxicology, Volume 4, pp 353-372, 1977.

(Copies of this document are available from the U.S. Army Center for Health Promotion and Preventative Medicine, ATTN: MCHB-DC-TTE, Bldg., E-2100, Aberdeen Proving Ground,MD 21010-5422.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.3), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 4.2).

3.2 Guide samples. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor. Variations from the specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern.

3.3 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Design . The soft shell jacket has a center front opening with a two-way fastener closure and a front wind protection flap. It has a collar with a cover for an enclosed collapsible hood; a hood with a binding that covers an elastic cord that has cord lock adjustments;raglan sleeves with hook and loop pockets and slide fastener (zipper) opening for ventilation under the sleeve. Two front pockets with slide fastener (zipper) openings and an elastic cord in the bottom hem for adjustability. All slide fasteners have a thong for ease of opening when wearing gloves. This design provides a garment that is light in weight, low in bulk, has environmental protection and comfort in movement.

3.5 Basic Materials.

3.5.1 Standard sample. All cloth materials shall match the applicable standard sample for shade and appearance on the face side, and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4).

3.5.1.1 Basic shell material.The cloth shall be a plain weave, stretch, nylon and spandex cloth (texture approximating 95 by 60 yarns per inch, warp and filling, respectively), with water repellency, meeting the performance requirements of Table I when tested as specified in 4.5. The color of the cloth shall be Universal Camouflage.

* 3.5.1.2 Physical requirements. The cloth shall conform to the physical requirements specified in Table I when tested as specified in 4.5.

TABLE I. Basic Shell Material - Physical Requirements.

Requirement

Weight, oz/sq. yd (max.)

Threshold

Objective

1/ The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended.

3.5.1.3 Color.

3.5.1.3.1 Army Universal Camouflage. The color of the cloth shall be Universal Camouflage pattern and shall match Desert Sand 500, Urban Gray 501, and Foliage Green 502. Each area of the specific color of the pattern shall be in accordance with the applicable standard sample or drawing number 2-1-2519.

3.5.1.4 Pattern execution.

3.5.1.4.1 Army Universal Camouflage pattern execution. The Universal Camouflage pattern shall reproduce the standard sample in respect to design, colors and registration of the respective areas. The pattern repeat of the dyed, printed, and finished cloth shall be 36.00 inches (+1.25 inches, -2.50 inches) in the warp direction. The various areas of the pattern shall be properly registered in relation to each other and shall present definite sharp demarcations with a minimum of feathering or spew. Each pattern area shall show solid coverage; skitteriness exceeding that shown by the standard sample in any of the printed areas shall not be acceptable. When the standard sample is not referenced for pattern execution or design, a pattern drawing shall be provided, and the pattern on the finished cloth shall match that of Drawing 2-1-2519.

3.5.1.5 Spectral reflectance.

3.5.1.5.1 Spectral reflectance, Army Universal Camouflage. The spectral reflectance of the colors in the Universal Camouflage cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table II, initially and after laundering when tested as specified in 4.6.8and 4.6.8.1.

TABLE II. Spectral Reflectance Requirements: Reflectance (percent).

Wavelength,

Desert Sand 500

Urban Gray 501

Foliage Green 502

Nanometers (nm)

600

620

3.5.2 Mesh Tricot pocket lining. Lining fabric shall be Tricot knit mesh of 100% polyester or equal. The color shall be Urban Gray 505. The fabric cloth shall meet the physical requirements specified in Table III when tested as specified in 4.5.

TABLE III. Mesh Pocket Lining - Physical Requirements.

1/ The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended.

3.6 Components.

* 3.6.1 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be V-T-295, “Thread, Nylon” Type I or II, size B, 2-ply at 6.0 pounds breaking strength, with “Water-Repellent” treatment. As an alternate, bobbin/looper threads can be Nylon, size AA, 2-ply, with a minimum breaking strength of 4.0 pounds, with “Water-Repellent” finish. The stitching shall be 9-12 stitches per inch. The color shall be Foliage Green 504.

* 3.6.2 Identification friend or foe material. The material used for the 3/4-inch x3/4-inch tape shall be Night Vision Equipment Company IFF-55, IR glo-tape; Omniglow Corporation, part number 9-30142, or TVI part number 2B or equal.

* 3.6.3 Webbing/tape. Tape, MIL-PRF-5038, 3/8-inch wide shall be used to construct the slide fastener thong and the retainer for the barrel lock. The color shall be Foliage Green 504.

3.6.4 Tape, hook and loop. The hook and loop fastener tape shall conform to type II, class 1 of A-A-55126, with selvage edges. No slit or split edges are permitted. Sew all hook and loop minimum of 1/8 inch from bound selvage to prevent needle cutting along edges. To prevent raveling, do not sew directly on selvage. However, each required width shall maintain a tolerance of + 1/32 inch as to prevent stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment. The color shall match Foliage Green 504.

3.6.4.1 Alternate tape, loop. As an alternate, loop fastener tape without selvages edges (reduce field fraying) shall conform to class 1 of A-A-55126 except without selvage edges: YKK Cosmolon Edge to Edge" with heat-sealed edges or Velcro "DD", an edge-to-edge loop tape. Sew all loop tape minimum of 1/8 inch from edge to prevent needle cutting along edges. However, each required width shall maintain a tolerance of +1/32 inch as to prevent stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment. The color shall match Foliage Green 504.

3.6.4.2 Alternate tape, hook. As an alternate to hook tape without selvages (reduce field fraying),the following products may be used: Extruded plastic hook tape identified as "Velcro brand HTH 841" or "YKK brand SA200A". The color shall match Foliage Green 504.

3.6.4.3 Colorfastness, tape hook and loop. Unless otherwise specified, for Foliage Green 504, the fastener tapes (hook and loop) shall show fastness to dry cleaning (if required by contract), light (170 Kilojoules), laundering (after 5 cycles) and crocking when tested in paragraph 4.5. The finished tape fasteners shall show fastness equal to or better than a rating “ 4-5 “ to dry cleaning and light, equal to or better than a rating of “2-3” for laundering using AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change and equal to or better that rating of “4” for crocking using AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. The color depreciation for laundering and light shall remain in the same hue as compared to the original sample. (Hue/cast is defined as the attribute of color that classifies a color as red, blue, green etc.)".

3.6.4.4 Hook and loop laundry durability test method. When tested in accordance with 4.6.17, the hook and loop tapes shall not exhibit fraying edges, peeling yarns, or damage appearance that detracts from the tape appearance or durability.

3.6.5 Elastic cord. The elastic cord shall be 1/8-inch width, +1/32-inch, minus 0-inch, elastic cord conforming to elongation, 120% +/- 10%; weight per linear yard, 0.2-ounces (max); picks per inch, 60 (min); number of carriers 16; end per carrier, 1; number of elastic strands, 12 (min); cover yarn, polyester. The elastic cord shall have a seared and knotted end.The color shall match Foliage Green 504.

* 3.6.6 Elastic material. The elastic material used on the cuffs shall be in accordance with MIL-W-5664, Type II, 1-½inches+ 1/16 inch wide. The elastic material may be Black or approximate Foliage Green 504 (Threshold); the color shall match Foliage Green 504 (Objective).

3.6.7 Fastener, slide, interlocking. All slide fasteners shall conform to A-A-55634, with the types and styles as specified below.

3.6.7.1 FrontSlide fasteners. Front closure slide fastener (zipper) shall be Plastic Individual Element, Type III, Style 13(separating double auto-lock sliders such that opens both from top and bottom), No. 5 chain with 100 lbs.minimum crosswise strength with water repellent (WR) treated tape and thong on top slider, Foliage Green 504. Separating and disengaging slide fastener (zipper) should function in a smooth even manner with no hang-ups, jamming or reason to adjust slider position.

3.6.7.2 Side pocket and underarm slide fasteners (zippers) - Side pocket and underarm slide fasteners (zippers) shall be A-A-55634, No 5with 175 lbs minimum crosswise strength, continuous element reverse* chain, Type I, style 7, auto-lock slider with thong, closed top, closed bottom stop with Water Repellent ( WR ) treated tape, FoliageGreen 504 shade. Pulling up on slider closes side pocket and pulling towards front closes underarm slide fasteners (zippers).

*Reverse chain is when zipper tape side and slider pull represents face.

3.6.8 Barrel lock. The barrel locks shall maintain a 3-pound minimum holding strength on elastic cord (see 3.6.5) at –40°F, 70°F and 140°F when tested in accordance with 4.6.11. The barrel lock shall be ½ -inch x 3/8-inch elliptical or 3/8-inch round shape, minimum push-button size. The color shall match Foliage Green 504.

3.6.9 Snap Fasteners. Snap fasteners shall conform to MIL-F-10884 style 2A. The snap fasteners shall have a Black chemical finish, except the button cap shells may have a Foliage Green 504 baked-on enamel finish. The enamel shall be uniformly coated over the top surface of the shell including the visible portion of the edge. The gloss for the Black chemical finish and the enamel finish shall be no more than 40. The enamel shall be capable of withstanding attachment operations without removal of any enamel. The enamel coating shall be smooth and free of sags, runs, and streaks.

* 3.6.10 Eyelet. The eyelets used on each side of the hood and in the hemshall be in accordance with NASM-20652/1B, aluminum or brass and have an internal diameter of 0.156 inch to 0.200 inch (dash No. ABE-102). The color shall be Foliage Green 504.

* 3.6.11 Cannon clip. The cannon clip used in the back of the hood, shall be Foliage Green 504 and it shall be equal to or better than Part #743-0125 of ITW Nexus.

* 3.6.12 Grommet. The grommet used in the back of the hood shall be in accordance with type III, class III, size zero (0) of NASM-16491. The color shall be Foliage Green 504.

3.6.13 Interfacing. The interfacing fabric shall be Pellon #933 material or equal.

* 3.6.14 Binding tape. The binding tape shall be a lightweight (approximately 2 ounces per square yard), plain or twill weave polyester or nylon lining bias slit. The color shall be Foliage Green 504. The width shall be such to conceal the slide fastener tape and not impede the slide fastener operation.

3.7 Construction. See Figures 1-3 and patterns for details.

* 3.7.1 Front slide fastener (zipper) (left pin side)– Pre-sew 2 x 2 in. loop tape onto face and 4, 5/8 x 2 in. loop tape strips onto backof slide fastener (zipper) cover per pattern placement, insert interfacing and sew ends with SSe-2. Set socket snap into base of cover per pattern placement. Top stitch around three sides, 1/16 inches from edge. Sew slide fastener (zipper) tape binding with seam BSb-1. Sew zipper tape, double layer of tricot knit pocketing to outer-shell with SSa-1, turn, place on slide fastener (zipper) cover and sew with LSq-2 through all layers into inner binding. On upper 4 inches of slide fastener (zipper), tape will be inserted between outer and inner hide-away hood assembly. Bartack slide fastener (zipper) bottom pin side and top. Finished slide fastener (zipper) cover should extend 1 in nominal from edge of slide fastener (zipper) teeth.