Feeder Construction Plans and Cut List
Antiquity Ranch
Feeder Construction Plans and Cut List
Updated 10-14-13
Finished Feeder
Tools and equipment
The primary assembly tools are an impact driver and 3/8 drill, along with clamps, tape measure, adjustable angle tool, T-square and welding equipment.
Feeder Materials and Cut list
The materials for the feeder are 2x4s, 2x6, 4x8x½” exterior grade plywood, 11/2”x 1/8” angle iron and 3/8 rebar. The assembly will require numerous sizes of exterior construction screws.
Material List
2x4 8 feet(10)
2x6 8 feet(1)
4x8x1/2” plywood (1)
3/8” rebar 10 feet(6)
1 ¼” x 48” angle iron(2)
Assorted exterior screws
1st Step is to cut the plywood to provide the feeder sides and bottom frame floor. A sheet of plywood will provide enough material for two feeders. See illustration below:
(4) 24”x24”
(4) 113/4”x47”
(The long panels dimension should have be listed as 47” to fit the length of the bottom frame)
These pieces are painted with exterior paint to provide additional weather protection. Two coats of paint has worked well for me and kept the feeders serviceable for three years.
2x Material Cuts
Top Frame (2x4)
(2) Sides44”
(2) Ends24”
Bottom Frame (2x4 & 2x6)
(2) Sides44”
(1) Center piece44”
(2) Ends, 2x624”
See illustration for 2x6 ends
(4) Braces, 2x645 degree cuts
Legs, Steps and Feet (2x4)
(2) Legs44”-48”
I currently cut the legs at 44” because the feeders are easier for me to lift slightly and move once they are completed. Any height between 44” and 48” doesn’t seem to make a difference for the adult goats or kids.
(2) Steps & Feet48”
Assembly
I start with the legs put together with (4) 4” screws placed in holes pre-drilled slightly smaller in diameter than the screws. A clamp works well to hold the two pieces together. Once the legs are . done then the legs are screwed to the 24x24 sides.
The top of the leg set is centered at the top of the side panel. The bottom of the panel is centered evenly between the outside of the legs. Screws 1½” are used to attach to side panels to the legs.
The next step is to assemble the top and bottom frames. I pre-drill the ends so they don’t split when I drive the 4” screws into the side pieces. Once the bottom frame is complete, the plywood shelves are attached with 1 ½”screws and the center piece is attached with 4” screws.
Attachment of the completed sides can now be done, starting with the top frame. See illustration below:
Attachment of the bottom frame is now possible since the assembled parts will stand on their own. I use clamps to rest the bottom frame on while I use 1½” screws to attach it to the side panels.
The feeder can now be flipped on its top to put on the feet and steps, using 4” screws. Each of the 2x4 feet is centered on the legs. One step is placed on each side, approximately 10” or halfway between the top rail of the bottom frame and the foot. I also use a 3 ½” screw to secure the legs to the bottom frame.
I drill a hole in each end of the feet to be able to drive 12” spikes through the holes, which helps to secure the feeder in place.With the feederflipped right side up the 45 degree braces are attached to the bottom frame and side panels. I use these to decrease the flexing of the feeder and it seems to keep the goats from pushing the hay out of the corner.
Completing the feeder now requires using a welder to finish the hay rack or the use of a portion of a feedlot panel to provide the hay rack.
Assembly of the hay rack
The angle iron pieces are cut, approx.. 43 ¾”, to fit inside the top frame and drilled with 3-4 holes that will be used to secure the hay rack to the top frame.
Cut the 3/8” rebar into 40” pieces. I use a 10 foot section cut into 3 equal pieces. Each of the 40” pieces is bend in half, which I do by first heating the center of the piece and then bending it so the ends are 24” apart. The “V” shaped piece will then fit snugly again the angle iron it will be weld to.
I use 14 of these “V” pieces spaced 3” apart to make the hay rack. One straight piece of rebar will be needed to attach to the bottom of the “V” pieces once the hay rack is welded. This makes for a very solid hay rack.
Use of a feedlot panel to make a hay rack is one way to complete the feeder without the need for a welder. The panel is cut to a length that will fit inside the top frame and approximately 40” wide. This piece will be bent in half to form the hay rack. Attachment of the hay rack to the top frame is done in any manner you choose. It needs to be very well secured soit can take a sharp blow from a buck or doe.
