JOE CELLS for BEGINNERS
or
“It Works for Me”
By Ren
Introduction
Being a completely non scientific type, and having spent many, many enjoyable and sometimes confusing hours watching Joe’s video and reading the books by Barry and Alex, I thought it just might be helpful to new builders to document my experiences.
My advice to you is to watch that video, and read both those books, and of course, read what I have to say. It may not be of any use to you at all, but it might….because….
This is an account of what works for me.
I particularly wish to thank Alex and Barry for their work, and Joe for his and for passing on the wonderful information. And there is one other person I wish to thank. Guess who?
Corpus Magnus
Before we get into the real guts stuff, some of you may get a wee bit confused. If so email me. Please keep it short and precise. I would like an intro as to who and where you are. I think that is fair, don’t you?
This is it. This is for me and for you. This is for all the people who just want to get on with doing it. Doing what? Building those funny little things that people call Joe Cells.
Now let’s get it right, right from the start. What you are going to build is not a Joe cell. It is an orgone, or Life-force, accumulator that uses water as a medium. Joe’s cells are Joe cells, mine are Ren cells, and you will have your own. Mary cells, Dave cells, whatever.
I need to point out now, that as you proceed with this little adventure of yours, you are going to discover some rather amazing things. Amazing things about water and weather and orgone and aether, and stainless steel and rubber and magnets and electricity. But most of all, you are going to discover stuff about you. You will also win new friends and sometimes you will wish you hadn’t. You may have unexpected guests on your computer or in the sky close by, who are unwelcome. You should hope for a visit from someone you do not want to see. You are embarking, my friend, on the voyage of a lifetime.
Come on, let’s get to work. I am going to show you how I do it. I build cells as close to the way Joe does as I know how. I build the Mark 3 (5 inch) cell and the Mark 4 (4 inch) cell.
Cones and Kegs:
I read Barry’s book first and decided that I needed a beer keg and those big 10 inch stainless steel cones that are used in milk factories. Well I got the keg but never did get the cones. I did end up with the smaller cones (5.5 inch) from dairy farm milk/cream separators. So being one who is full on most of the time I set up my gear. The beer keg was too big so I scored an old stainless steel hot water urn, the type they had in the smoko room at work before those horrible coffee machines became popular. Anyway, a few modifications, like ripping the guts out of it and plugging up the holes. Filled it full of water and it leaked. Not to be foiled, I found a 20 litre plastic bucket and put the whole shebang in. It had taken a lot of fiddling to get the cones spaced just right around a piece of PVC pipe. Joe uses agricultural pipe, the drainage stuff. For the life of me I could not find any small enough to go inside the smaller cones. But where there is a will there is a way.
There is a drawing of the cone/keg set-up in Barry’s book, and because I have trouble drawing on these computer machines, I will not attempt to replicate it. My cone set-up is modified to suit readily available hardware. I have been able to do away with the 3 rubber spacers between each pair of cones and this new method makes the rig much quicker to dismantle, clean and reassemble.
As you can expect I could hardly wait to hook it on to a car battery. So I didn’t. Wait, that is. Yep, hooked it up and watched and waited and watched and waited. I did this for a long time. The books and the videos don’t say anything much about waiting. I will tell you. Impatient blokes like me actually can learn to wait, and it hurts when you first start.
I remember watching the video and there is Joe in the shed with the beer keg full of big cones and water, a flick of the switch on his electro rectifier something or other machine and then he chucks a match in and jumps as some gas explodes. Well I always did like matches. My dear old Dad used to reckon there was pyromania in the family, I reckon there was some arson about. Well I waited some more and watched some more and finally I saw tiny little bubbles and a smoky sort of cloud in the water.
After a while there was some brown flaky stuff starting to float around and drift to the top. I let it stay there. Hours later it was thicker and there were bubbles trapped in it. That was when I got match happy. Just could not resist it. Well I blew up some bubbles that I thought would be loud but weren’t. I blew up some that I thought would fizz but instead they cracked, some rather loudly. I blew up bubbles in the centre, in the middle, along the outside. I went through a lot of matches and a lot of time waiting for more bubbles to return, just to explode them. I did as Joe does and learned to take the scum off without losing the charge from the water. I would leave the thing alone for a couple of days sometimes and come back. I did it for months and enjoyed myself immensely.
In the meantime I also learned that it is not too hard to burn the cones, and the water. A few times I have forgotten to take the power off to the unit and it produced some really vile looking green and inky black muck below the layer of brown sludge. I am talking about three distinct layers over half an inch thick each. And lovely clean water underneath.
I have learned that cleaning the gear often does not hurt. In fact I did find that the more often it is cleaned, and the more it is used in shortish bursts, the better the unit works.
And then one day I poked a match into a tiny little bubble, out by the edge, all by itself. When that went off there was an extremely loud “crackthud” sound and all the brown scum was blown off the surface of the water. All over the roof of the shed, one of the walls, and me. My ears had popped, implosion, duckz gutz. Naturally I was frozen in place. My lady wife and young blokes came running, “Dad, Dad, are you alright?” And there I am still standing there with a dead match in my hand and stupid grin on my face. Oh yes, friend, I was very alright.
As time went by I was able to get the water to a stage where I could get those sounds nearly every time. It was about then that I noticed the weather seemed to effect the speed of charging and also the types of sounds I could get. I have been able to detect five different sounds. Some explosions have bursts of orange flame, some blue, some bright golden yellow, and some have no flame detectable with the naked eye. Some are lightening speed and some just seem to make a sheet of blue across the entire surface of the water. I also began to notice that clouds could come out of nowhere when I was charging, and sudden wind gusts.
Yes, charging water and exploding bubbles was fun, and time consuming.
But I found out that I had been wasting time. For a bloke with one or two cells, a cone/keg rig is not essential, in fact it is really only good for having fun with, being a bit of a larrikin etc. It can also show the changes water goes through when electricity is applied in certain ways. Nice to have, but not essential, an option for you.
THOUGHTS on CELLS:
Well back to the story. So you want to know about cells. Wonderful things, and so many different ideas as to what constitutes a good cell.
The purpose of having a cell is to charge water to a certain state. By charge I do not mean getting it to a stage where we are producing gallons of gas, far from it. The purpose of a cell is not to produce gas. Gas is a by-product of the process. Gas bubbles can be, and are, used to identify the state of the charge of the cell and the water. We do not want too much gas. That is for the folks who can’t get a car to run on the Life-force. The charging process will provide enough gas to do what we want. More on that later.
Accompanying this manual is a drawing at the back of the Mark 4. The Mark 3 is almost identical. The only difference is that the Mark 3 has one extra neutral cylinder (pipe or tube) and is therefore an inch larger in diameter. It is also more expensive to build, harder to install in a car, heavier, and takes a lot longer to charge.
Joe intended the Mark 4 cell to be filled with water charged in the cone/keg rig. I have done it once or twice but no longer bother. A properly built Mark 4 cell is extremely capable of charging it’s own water, and in fact seems to prefer to do it that way.
It is my opinion, and not verified, that each cell develops it’s own frequency. And I also believe that each cone/keg rig has it’s own frequency. Why cause possible problems by adding water that has been charged in a keg and may be at a different frequency to what the cell will try to get to on its own?
Problems are to be avoided. Your own cell technology needs to be kept simple until you are way along the track. Too many blokes never build cells because they get bogged down in the theory. Just build your cell. The theory can come later. I don’t worry about what other people think of my methods, neither should you. OK, a scientist may well have good reason to say that I go about things backwards. But that is only from his perspective. From my perspective, and because I have no idea about science, my way of doing things is logical. If it turns out that the cell works, why bother about knowing all the theory.
Incidentally, I have not had a scientist tell me that I do things backwards. I did have a CSIRO scientist indicate that he was puzzled that I had so little knowledge of the science involved. But he also said that science does not recognize orgone as a valid subject, so he could not have known anything about it either. Caused me to wonder where he was coming from.
I have had another scientist tell me I work by intuition. Sounds fair to me. Thanks Alex.
So, my advice to you is to build a Mark 4 cell, don’t bother with a cone/keg rig unless you feel like playing with matches.
I would like to reiterate, a Mark 4 cell is not only capable of charging it’s own water, it actually seems to prefer water that is charged in and by itself.
I believe that when we charge water in a cell, over a period of time the stainless steel gets accustomed to being tickled by a trickle of electricity and actually comes to like it. And the stainless steel somehow develops a form of “memory”.
When you build your own cell and are ready to start charging, you had better get ready to start watching. Watch for bubbles around the top of the smallest pipe. This centre pipe is the negative. It is also called the cathode. That is where you are first going to see bubbles.
The first time you hook a car battery to your cell you will most likely have to wait a minute, even longer maybe, before you see any bubbles at all. However, as your cell gets used over a period of time with lots of short applications of battery power, you will notice that even with new water the bubbles will begin to appear more quickly. My trusty old Mark 4 produces bubbles in new water in less than 10 seconds, sometimes in 2.
What about building a cell? OK, I will get on to that now.
Read on.
BUILDING THE CELL
I prefer to use 316 L stainless steel, and seamless if at all possible. But for starters, use anything you can get your hands on, just get started.
The first thing I really do need to explain is “cost”. There is a lot of talk about cost. I have received numerous emails from people saying they are wanting to build a joecell and will get to it as soon as they have some money. Money? How much money? I’ll tell you in a while.
Back to my cells. I built a Mark 4, because I had the bits. I built it and started charging it just to see if a Mark 4 would do the same thing as a Mark 3 was designed for.
There is also a lot of talk about using recycled stainless steel from scrap yards. I did that too. In fact my first cell was made out of scrap; it was as rough as guts and it cost me ten dollars. It was a combination of the Mark3 and the Mark 4. It had a 5 inch outer casing. That outside casing is your positive, or anode. But you know that because you have already looked at the plans at the back of the manual. And if you haven’t done that yet, then maybe you had better do it now.
Getting back. Inside the outer casing was the cathode (-) and two neutrals. The cathode was 200 mm long, not 8 inches, 200 mm long and an inch in diameter. Because that is what I had. The first, or inner neutral was also 200 mm and 2 inches dia, but the outer neutral had horrible jagged bits on the bottom, was 5 inches long on one side and 7.5 inches long on the other. It had a diameter of 3 inches. In theory, and according to the books it could not work. Heh heh heh. But it did, sort of.
I had rammed a stainless steel bolt up into the bottom of the cathode. That bolt can be a mounting bolt to your vehicle, but more importantly for now it is the negative terminal into the cell. It must be insulated from the positive outer casing, and it must be watertight where the bolt passes through the bottom of the case. You will end up trying all sorts of things hoping to insulate that bolt and seal the opening. You may use combinations of things. You may get flash and have a custom-built bolt made, with flanges on it and specially machined insulators etc. Friend, that sort of silly business is overkill. I use rubber that I ripped out of wrecked cars at the local dump. There are beaut bits with holes in them that you can find in engine compartments. I have used bits of old inner tube and pieces of electrical conduit. If your bolt is the right diameter you may be able to use the white plastic (or PVC or nylon) olives that are used in copper pipe fittings. Try anything, try everything. Just do it.
Let me stress. With cells the major outlay is time. The hardware is not expensive unless you go high tech. I like to do it as cheaply as possible, because I have to.
I had come to believe that nice new stainless steel pipe was expensive. I thought I could not afford it. So in the end I priced some. I also found out that it pays to shop around. It pays to shop around because some stainless steel merchants sell it by the metre, others will sell it by the inch. Shop fitters who build commercial kitchens can be helpful, so can plumbers who do industrial work. Befriend a sheet metal worker, a lathe man.
It pays to look at what you want to build and what you can afford. I am very fortunate in that I have two very good mates who have also started building cells. Both these blokes have donated hardware to the cause. The major financial expense is the last one. That is good. It allows you the time to save up for the good bit that goes on top, or it allows you the time to decide to go low-tech, just to see if it works, and to save the bucks.
Most of my cells are all hand built. The books say get the materials lathed. Well that’s fine if you live in the city. It also means more dollars unless you can find a friend of a friend who has a metal lathe.
Me? I use a hacksaw with new blades (that’s flash), a file, and wet and dry sandpaper.
It is important to get the ends of the pipes cut off flat, no ups and down, cut flat so that when the pipe is sitting on a flat surface it stands straight up in the air. No leaning towers of Pisa please.
A hint for the hacksaw jockeys. To get a line around the circumference of the pipe, wrap a piece of paper around the pipe. Make sure there are no overlaps. The result is a mark that will yield a 90 degree cut. Now I usually mark the pipe with a ballpoint, but you could use a spray can of paint if you wished. When you start cutting, don’t, repeat, do not, try to cut straight through. Sure as eggs you will run off line and end up with a horrible mess. What I do is just start gently sawing on the mark as I slowly rotate the pipe. Keep rotating as you keep cutting, then when the end drops off, lightly file off any jagged little bits, not forgetting to clean up inside the pipe where the saw cut will have pushed a wafer thin amount of stainless. I use a small chain saw file for this and finish with a few swipes of wet and dry.