GLOSSARY

A-a

aho:weft thread in weaving

aho poka:in weaving a short weft used to shape a garment. A group of short wefts also known as a poka

aho taahuhu:the weft thread strung across the weaving pegs

aho tapu:sacred first line, the casting on thread of the sampler made during initiation

aho whatu:end of line of weaving

aonui:täniko pattern based on the triangle motif (also called aronui)

arä:line of weaving or weft

aramoana:täniko pattern based on continuous chevrons without serratious

arapaki:ornamental lattice work between upright slabs of walls in a meeting house

arawa:a variety of flax from the Rotoiti area, grows up to 2.5m high and readily yields good, clean muka. It is also excellent for piupiu.

atiraukawa:a variety of harakeke fibre of high quality; the young leaf is bright olive-green which turns a bronze color when mature

awhirito/matua:two leaves on either side of rito

awahou:a short bladed flax variety from the eastern Bay of Plenty, has a distinctive tip. Its leaves make a strong kete and very dry and white after being boiled

aute:paper mulberry tree

H-h

haaro:to remove the flax fibre from the leaves by cutting across the under side, then drawing over a makoi (mussel shell)

haehae:tool used to mark parallel lines of weaving strips

hapine:to remove moisture from and to soften weaving material

harakeke:New Zealand flax

haro:to scrape the para or green layer off the harakeke to expose the fibre

here:cord

hieke:a cloak or cape with tags of double strips of flax leaf

hihima:a korowai cloak with undyed tags

hinaki:eel trap made from kareao

houhere/hoheria lace bark used to make potae

houhi/houi/

hoihere:

huaki:a) korowai which has double taniko boarders along the sides and bottom and which has horizontal wefts in the woven foundation

b) a kaitaka cloak with horizontal wefts and double taniko borders on three sides

hukahuka:a) tassel from two strands, added to the woven foundation, rolled tags

b) the tag attachments on a cloak, either rolled cord or strips of flax leaf

c) thrums, tassels on a garment

huruhika:superior variety of harakeke

huuhi:variety of harakeke with dark edges to the leaves

I-I

io:plaiting strip

K-k

kaikaha:left over scraps of harakeke

kaka:hank

kahu/kakahu:general name for Mäori cloaks

kahu huruhuru:general name for cloaks decorated with feathers

kahu kura:cloak decorated with red feathers of the parrot

kaitaka:class of cloaks, which are decorated with taniko

(also known as parawai)

kaitiaki:guardian

kakahu/korowai:cloak

kahu tupapaku:any cloak used to drape over a corpse

kanono:tree, used for dying

kaokao:class of taniko pattern in which the upturned chevron is used

also used in tukutuku

karure:a) to twist two minimum threads to form a double thread; two ply thread

b) tassel from three threads

c) curled tassels

katau:first part of the rolling process in which the threads are rolled forward from the body, down and to the right of the leg

kati pipipi:harakeke bird cage

kaupapa:theme, or the foundation or main surface of a cloak

kawe:burden carriers

kawe huri:baby cradle made from untreated kiekie

kawhiu:diving kete, used to hold paua or fish

kete nikau:kete made from nikau leaves

kete pai kaka:harakeke kete for carrying clothes

kete whakairo:a kete with coloured decorative geometric patterns

kohua:boil

kohunga:superior variety of harakeke with tall but rather droopy-leafed cultivar that flowers freely, narrow leaf, olive green in color with edge and keel fading on the upper side (term is used in the Waikato-Maniapoto area); it gives very silky muka and is good for kete

komiri:to rub with the fingers

komuru:rubbing

kono/rourou:food basket

korowai:class of cloaks, in which the body ornamentation consists of pompom tassels, tags and thrums

korowai ngore:korowai with hukahuka and pompoms

kopare:headband

korari:flower stalk of the harakeke

kowhai:yellow

kurupatu:neck fringe on a cloak. In some areas also the hem fringe

M-m

makawerao:a variety of flax

makomako:a small tree, the bark of which is used as a dye mordant

mangu:black

maramara:mud used in obtaining a black dye (known also as uku or paru); is rusty coloured on top and is usually found in swamps

maro:an apron like garment

matawai:a variety of flax

miro:a) fine thread used as weft material in weaving

b) a rolled cord also the rolling process

Miro is produced in the order of forward and right forward action followed by backward and leftward action. In Mäori terminology katau (right) plus maui (left). To produce karure threads the order of rolling is reversed to maui followed by katau

motu-o-nui:a variety of flax with straight green leaves unevenly tipped with white.

muka:a) flax fibre, called whitau in some districts

b) prepare the fibre of harakeke

mumu:a tukutuku pattern which has a checkerboard appearance

N-n

ngaro:a variety of flax from the Moutoa Swamp, Foxton, is a very tall (3m) straight variety with a distinct bronze tinge and surprisingly silky muka given the size and stiffness of the leaves. This variety is also good for piupiu and kete

O-o

oue:superior variety of harakeke such as kohunga

P-p

paapaka:pattern based on the basket weave which has a perpendicular line through each diamond

paatea:cloak in which the body wefts are horizontal, and the sides and bottom borders have single taniko bands

paepae hangi:oven surrounds

paepaeroa:cloak with vertical wefts in the main body and with single taniko borders along the sides and bottom

paepearoa-huaki:cloak with vertical wefts in the body and which has double taniko borders along the side and both borders

pa harakeke:harakeke plantation

paka wha:outside dried leaves of the harakeke plant

pango:a variety of flax

paoa:a variety of flax from Gisborne, with broad yellow green leaves that are slightly droopy. Unlike many varieties, paoa flowers very freely. When it dries the leaf strips are distinctly yellow, which makes this a valuable variety for kete and whariki.

para:film or skin

parawai:Wanganui class name for cloaks decorated with taniko

pare:head band (also tipare)

Parekoretawa:a naturally variegated flax variety from the East Coast, with orange leaf margins and keel. The muka it produces is shiny but rather brittle

pari:bodice used during ceremonials

paru:mud

patikitiki:term coined for patterns based on single diamonds

papakirango:East Coast term for patterns based on the basket weave

patu:beating, a term used in the production of muka

patu muka:stone pounder used for beating harakeke fibre

patu whitau:another name for a stone beater

pauku

pukupuku: war cloak made entirely of the close single-pair twine and worn to

protect against spear thrusts.

pia:the first order of learners being initiated into esoteric lore

piupiu:a) kilt worn by male and female performers during

ceremonial occasions and concerts

b) a waist garment consisting of a free swinging fringe,

formed by the dried flax whenu

c) a skirt like garment made up of numerous strands of

prepared harakeke

poha:mutton bird container, harakeke kete which holds a kelp bag

into which the mutton bird are placed and covered by a piece

of totara bark

poka:a dart in clothing used for shaping

pokinikini:decorative cylindrical tags made from flax strips naturally

rolled into tubes on drying

pora:rain cloak or cape

potae taua:a head covering worn by widows in mourning

pukupuku:a closely woven flax cloak. Also the close single-pair twining

technique

pungarehu:ashes

putake:root, or the base of the harakeke

puuahi:type of dogskin cloak in which the foundation was covered with strips of

white hairless dogskin. The breed of dog was called puahi

puwai or tourimu:fish kete made from titi leaves.

R-r

raapaki:garment, usually a cloak worn around the waist, also known as a waist

mat

raranga:the activity of weaving

raukura:a clump of white feathers

rau kumara:taniko and tukutuku pattern composed mainly of horizontal and vertical lines

raureka:a yellow dye used on flax fibre is produced from the bark and or roots. Known as kanono and manono in other areas

rito:young shoot

rongo tainui:superior type of harakeke

rui:sorting

rukutia:superior type of harakeke

dextrals:in plaitwork there are two sets of strips, one set pointing to the right away from the plaiter (the dextrals) and another set pointing away from the plaiter and to the left (sinistrals)

thrum:a fringe or tassel of short unwoven threads

uku:rusty-coloured mud used to obtain a black dye

T-t

tae:dye, juice of plants, colour

takatu:prepare or get ready.

take:the stump end of the harakeke leaf

takitahi:to weave over one, then under one

takikau:variety of harakeke from which high grade fibre can be drawn without the use of a shell

takari:jerking technique used to strip away the harakeke leaves

takitahi:the basic over-one under-one stroke used in both plaitwork and raranga

takatu kiekie:preparing kiekie

take:the base of the kiekie leaf

taniwha:a variety of flax which comes from the garden of Sir Apirana Ngata

tanekaha:Phyllocladus trichomanoides, a tree, the bark of which is used to produce a red brown dye used on harakeke fibre

taniko:a) a pre-European twining weaving technique

b) finger weaving technique utilised to create garments

tapeka:patterned bandolier worn by males as a ceremonial costume

tapiki:turn in – a technique to finish the tops of kete or casting off of mats

tatara:a type of rain cape

tauira horomata:a pupil under the instruction of an expert

taupokipoki:pattern of single alternating triangles

taupora:hangi whariki

tatua whiri:braided belts

taniko:colored geometric finger-woven pattern

taniko dyes:hinau bark and paru, tanekaha and raureka bark

tanekaha:celery pine the bark of which is used to produce a tan colour

tawatawa:pattern based on vertical and horizontal lines

te tatua:a variety of flax from Gisborne, which has short narrow leaves and is good for kete

te tikanga:the method of preparing kiekie for boiling

tihoi:extra wefts inserted in the body of the garments to allow for body fit; also a superior variety of harakeke

tihore:to peel, strip or remove the skin, also a superior variety of harakeke

tipare:a headband

tohutohutanga:guidance or instruction

toiki/waikawa:large rough baskets or mats

toiiki:harakeke kete used to store seed potato and to weather before planting

toe toe:split or divide the leaf, stripping

torua:twilled plaiting; the strips pass over two, under two

torehe:fish trap made from kareao or harakeke

torua whakatakoto:twilled twos plaiting in horizontal bands

torua whakatu:twilled twos, plaiting in vertical bands

tuitui:to lace, sew

tukemata:class of patterns based on serrated chevrons

tukohu:a basket used for cooking food in boiling pools

tukutuku:lattice work depicting facets of tikanga and kawa in superior houses decorative wall panels where horizontal slats of wood are attached in front of vertical kakaho stalks with cross and single stitches arranged with specific patterns

tumatakahuki:woven brace or stake of arapaki/tukutuku

turuturu:an upright peg used by weavers to hold their work in place.

tutu:shrub, the bark of which was used as a dye mordant.

tukutuku:ornamental fibre bases lattice-work between the poupou in the wharenui

torehe:fish trap, made from harakeke and kareao

turuke:crayfish pot, made from kareao hoops with manuka lattice work

tupuna:ancestors

tuturu:frame

tukohu:cooking basket made from toetoe which lasts longer in mineral water, Rotorua area

W-w

whakakitaratara:picket top of kete

whakamaroke:to dry

whakamata:first line

whanake:Most commonly used for Mäori craft are the leaves of the

known as ti kauka or ti kouka among other names

ti ngahere is used for rope making and other purposes. The fibre is very strong and long lasting in water than harakeke (feathers and fibre)

whakapa:preparing for separation of muka

whakapapa:the sequence in which the coloured strips are laid out at the commencement of a kete or whariki whakairo. Also known

whakapoti:to make a corner

whakarite:to prepare

whararua:class of patterns based on two or more diamonds placed one above the other (literally, two mouths)

whatu:a pre-European weaving technique, to weave

whatu aho paati:single pair twining. A weaving technique using a single pair of cords, for each weft.

whatu aho rua:double pair twining. A weaving technique in which four cords (two pairs) are used for each weft

whenu:weaving strip, warp thread

whenu tapiri:long whenu dyed black

whinau:tree, Elaeocarpus dentatus, the bark of which was used as dye, (also known as hinau)

whiri:plaiting

whiri whenu:warp twist

whitau:high grade prepared harakeke fibre

waitumu:mordant used in dying harakeke