Types of Seam Finishes
Pinked Seam Finish
Description
The raw edges of the seam allowance are trimmed with pinking shears.
Suitable For
Most fabrics except those very prone to raveling.
Advantages
Fast and easy. Doesn’t add bulk to the seam allowance.
Disadvantages
Doesn’t look as neat and clean as other methods. May not keep very ravelly fabrics from
fraying, especially if the finished item will be laundered. Requires special scissors to make.
How to Make
Just trim the edge of the seam allowance with pinking shears. And trim the seam allowances
first, then press them open. This way, both sides will be trimmed at once, saving time.
However, if you’re working with a very bulky fabric that’s difficult to cut through, press the seam
allowance open first, then trim each side separately.
Zigzagged Seam Finish
Description
A zigzag stitch is sewn close to or over the raw edge of the
seam allowance.
Suitable For
Most fabrics
Advantages
Effective at keeping the raw edges of the seam allowance from fraying. Adds little bulk to the
seam allowance.
Disadvantages
Doesn’t look as neat and clean as some other methods.
How to Make
Trim the raw edge of the seam allowance (to make a clean edge), then zigzag over the raw
edge using a medium zigzag stitch. Or you can zigzag close to the raw edge first, then trim the
seam allowance close to the stitching.
You can either press the seam allowance open or zigzag each edge separately or you can
leave the seam allowances together, zigzag them together, and press the seam allowance to
one side.
Serged Seam Finish
Description
A line of overcast stitches is sewn over the raw edge of the seam allowance.
Suitable For
Most fabrics
Advantages
Produces a neat, clean finish that’s fray resistant. Adds little bulk to the seam allowance. Quick
and easy to make because the stitching and trimming can be done in one step.
Disadvantages
You need a serger machine to make the stitch.
How to Make
Serge the seam. You can either serge each edge separately and press the seam allowance
open or serge the two sides of the seam allowance together and press it to one side.
Clean-finished Seam
Also called a turned and stitched seam finish.
Description
The edges of the seam allowance are turned under and stitched.
Suitable For
Light to medium weight fabrics.
Advantages
Makes a neat, clean finish that won’t ravel.
Disadvantages
Adds bulk to the seam allowance, making it unsuitable for heavier fabrics.
How to Make
Press the seam open. Turn each fabric edge under 1/8” to 1/4”. Stitch close to the folded edge
using a straight stitch.
French Seam Finish
Description
The raw edge of the seam allowance is enclosed in a secondary seam.
Suitable For
Light weight fabrics and fabrics that are prone to raveling. Ideal for items that will have visible
seams.
Advantages
Produces a very neat, clean, finish. Raw edges will not ravel because they are completely
encased.
Disadvantages
Adds bulk to the seam allowance, making it unsuitable for medium to heavy weight fabrics. A
little complicated to make. Somewhat time consuming. Requires precise sewing.
How to Make
Assuming your item has a 5/8” seam allowance, place your fabric pieces wrong sides together.
Stitch 3/8” from the edge. Trim the seam allowance down to about 1/8”. Press the seam
allowance open. Fold the item right sides together at the seam line, then press. Stitch 1/4”
from the folded edge. Press the seam allowance to one side.
Flat-felled Seam Finish
Description
The raw edge of the seam allowance is encased, then topstitched on the outside.
Suitable For
Most fabrics. Items that need durable seams.
Advantages
Makes a neat, clean finish. Raw edges will not ravel because they are completely encased.
Makes a very sturdy seam.
Disadvantages
Requires precise pressing and sewing. Somewhat time consuming. Makes a topstitched seam
on the outside you may not want.
How to Make
Place your fabric pieces wrong sides together and stitch. Press the seam allowances open.
Press the edge of one side of the seam allowance under 1/4”. Trim the other side of the seam
allowance to 1/4”. Fold the folded seam allowance over the trimmed seam allowance. Press.
Stitch along the edge of the folded seam allowance.
Straigh Stitch Seam Finish
Description
This is a plain seam with an extra line of stitchingg
Suitable for
The straight stitch can be used as a seam finish on firmly woven fabrics which ravel slightly.
Advantages
It is effective in preventing the seam allowances in knits from curling.
Disadvantages
Does not look as neat as other methods.
How to Make
Stitch a plain seam. Stitch each seam allowance 2/8” from the raw edge. No backstitching is necessary.
Narrow Seam Finish
Description
The narrow seam finish is often used to control the curling seam allowances of knit fabrics. It also reduces the size of the seam allowance, making it more comfortable to wear.
Suitable for
Children clothing, or any fabric that needs extra strength.
Advantages
The narrow seam can be used anywhere on a garment, but it is especially useful where extra strength is needed.
Disadvantages
May add bulk to the fabric.
How to Make
Stitch a plain seam. Set machine for a zig zag of medium width and regular length. Zig Zag as close as possible to the seam through both seam allowances. No backstitching. Trim Seam allowances close to the zig zag. Press seam allowance to one side.