PUPPY CHECKLIST

ITEMS RECOMMENDED:

Stainless steel bowls

Collar and leash - Choose a collar that has room for growing. Check and adjust size frequently.

Gentle Leader for hard to handle puppies

I.D. tags in case puppy gets lost. Also, a microchip is recommended for permanent I.D.

Toys - Make sure toys are the correct size so they cannot be chewed up or swallowed. Gumabone, Nylabone, Squirrel Buddy, and Kong brands are good choices.

Equalizer carpet cleaner, Urine Off spray, and Anti-Icky Pooh for cleaning up after accidents

Diet and treats – Science Diet Growth or Purina Pro Plan Puppy are excellent choices. Use a name brand, quality puppy food for the first year, and then switch to an adult formula. No people food!!

SERVICES RECOMMENDED:

Training – Recommend basic obedience classes and socialization.Visit our website at for additional information on training.

Recommended reading – “Before You Get a Puppy & After You Get a Puppy” by Dr. Ian Dunbar. This can be provided by email.

Vaccines – Begin at eight weeks of age.

Spay or neuter – Recommend at six months of age for all pets that are not going to be bred in the future.

Heartworm preventative – Recommend Heartgard or Trifexis

PUPPY HEALTH CARE

Health Examination – We will take a health history, listen to the heart and lungs, palpate (feel) the pet’s abdomen, check eyes, ears, teeth and general condition. We will weigh your pet and recommend a special diet if needed. Flea control and heartworm preventative recommendations and other health issues and questions will also be discussed.

Vaccinations – DHLPP, Bordetella and Rabies

Rabies is a viral disease that attacks the central nervous system and is always fatal. This disease is contagious to animals and humans through the bite of an infected animal. This vaccine is required by Texas State Law. Dogs must receive two vaccines at one year intervals, and then the vaccine is required every three years.

DHLPP – This is a combination vaccine for five canine diseases:

  1. Distemper is a highly contagious disease of the respiratory and nervous system that can cause vomiting, diarrhea, nasal discharge, seizures and can be fatal.
  2. Hepatitis is a viral disease that can affect the liver and kidneys.
  3. Leptospirosis is a bacterial disease that can affect the kidneys.
  4. Parainfluenza is a viral respiratory infection.
  5. Parvo is a viral disease that is especially widespread in the Gulf Coast areas and causes intense vomiting and bloody diarrhea. Left untreated, the dog becomes dehydrated, and this is often fatal. Puppies should receive a series of three DHLPP boosters starting at eight weeks of age.

Bordetella is a condition commonly referred to as “kennel cough”. This disease causes a severe, intense cough. Most boarding and grooming facilities require this vaccine since the disease is spread easily among dogs in enclosed areas. This vaccine is given annually unless grooming/boarding facility has other requirements.

Heartworm Preventative –Heartworms are carried by mosquitoes which make this an especially widespread disease among dogs in this area of the country. The heartworm larvae migrate from the site of infection and mature worms eventually reside in the dog’s heart. With time, these parasites cause severe damage to the heart and lungs and left untreated, are eventually fatal. Luckily, there are heartworm preventatives available through veterinarians that can be given monthly. In the Houston area, keeping your pet on preventative is extremely important year-round. A heartworm test is required once a dog is 6 months of age or older and then yearly for us to keep dispensing this medication to your pet.

Fecal (stool) exam – We recommend that your dog be checked once a year for intestinal parasites such as hookworms, roundworms, whipworms, tapeworms, and coccidian. These parasites can be transmitted through the environment and can cause damage to the intestinal tract.

Your New Puppy

Dogs feel secure in small, enclosed spaces, like a den. Dog crates make excellent dens. A crate offers your dog security and a place to call its own. It is also a safe place for him to stay when you’re away or when you cannot watch him.

There are just a few steps in crate training:

  1. Choose a crate the same size as your puppy/dog. He should only have enough room to stand up, turn around, and lie down. If you have a large breed puppy, you may have to buy two different size crates or purchase a crate with a divider you can move as he grows.
  2. Use a single-word command for your dog to enter his crate and throw in a treat or piece of kibble. When he enters, praise him and close the crate door. Gradually increase the time he spends in the crate before you let him out. Remember, your dog still needs time to play and eliminate. Maintain a regular schedule of trips outdoors so as not to confine him too long.
  3. As a general guide, your puppy can stay in his crate comfortably for several hours, depending on his age. Take his age in months, add 1, and that’s how many hours he should be able to stay in his crate (up to 8 hours). For example, a 2-month old puppy should be comfortable in his crate for about 3 hours.
  4. Providing your dog or puppy with a crate that is too large may allow him to relieve himself in one end and sleep in the other. Always take your dog outside on a leash to the same area in your backyard to eliminate so you can praise him when his job is finished. This will take the guesswork out of his visits to the backyard.

Keep your dog in sight and if you witness an accident, say “No,” get his attention, and take him outdoors quickly so he can finish eliminating in the appropriate area.

If your dog will be trained to eliminate only outdoors, start by establishing an elimination spot. In the morning, clip his leash and collar and take the dog outdoors to his spot for elimination. State commands like “go potty.” After he does his duty, bring the dog inside for food and water. About 15-20 minutes after the meal, take the dog outside again for elimination. Take your dog to his “spot” at each elimination time and maintain a regular feeding, drinking, and elimination schedule.

Too much freedom too quickly can cause some confusion. If your dog experiences an accident or two, you should back up and slow down your training efforts. Marking should not be confused with housetraining problems because marking is deliberate. It is advised that if you notice this behavior indoors or out, you should strengthen all obedience commands immediately.

If you have tried all of the above and are still experiencing what you believe to be “Territorial Marking,” consult your veterinarian. Your dog/puppy may have a bladder infection and it’s always best to be safe. If your dog/puppy is not spayed or neutered, you may want to talk to your veterinarian about this procedure. It usually has a very positive effect on this type of behavior.

Even well-trained dogs sometimes have accidents. Clean the accident area with a pet odor neutralizer so your dog won’t be tempted to repeat this mistake. Here are some tips to help prevent accidents:

  • Do not make sudden changes in his diet.
  • Avoid giving your dog late night snacks.
  • Make sure to spend enough time outdoors.

“Come”

When using the “come” command, the owner should first call the dog by name followed by “come.” This will help get the dog’s attention so that they will be more attentive to the next command. It will also let the dog know that the owner is speaking directly to them and not to someone else.

Always encourage your puppy to “come” with enthusiastic praise and lots of encouragement. Keep in mind that no two dogs or puppies are alike so you will have to adjust your training methods according to the individual. Try to avoid calling him in a threatening tone as he may associate this with being scolded.

If he begins to ignore you and act as if he does not hear you, attach a long leash to him so you can reel him into you after you give him one command to “come.” This way you are not repeating the command and your dog will learn to come when he is called.

“Heel”

One of the most important things to keep in mind with this command is to make yourself more interesting than anything else around you during your walks. Give your dog a reason to stay with you, talk to him, give him a “sit” command, stop, make him lie down for one second, make it an interesting walk.

Begin your walk by telling your dog to “heel”; use his name first to get his attention and be very enthusiastic as you give the command. Do not forget to talk to him so he pays attention to you. Praise him when he is in the correct heel position, which is dog on your left, his right shoulder should be in line with your left hip.

Training Tips for “Heeling”:

  • If your dog insists on pulling ahead, work with him in small counter-clockwise circles. This will encourage him to pay attention to you as you are walking.
  • Play with him in your backyard and allow him to burn off some excess energy before you try to take him out for a controlled walk.
  • Do not let your dog eliminate anywhere he chooses. This type of behavior is also known as a “leader” behavior, which allows him a feeling of being in charge and could also lead to “territorial” behavior.

Using “Off” to Prevent Jumping

Dogs will jump up on people for one reason, to get attention. Teach your puppy or dog to “sit” for attention or praise of any kind. When he jumps on you, use your lowered tone of voice and lean towards the dog saying, “off.” He will have no choice but to back away from you, and when he does, teach him to sit by firmly planting his bottom on the ground. Offer him calm praise for obeying you. Soon, all you will have to say to your dog is “sit” and he will comply readily because he knows he will be rewarded.

Training Tips for Preventing Jumping:

  • Attach a leash to his collar so he can’t jump on you and run away. Tell him “off,” now “sit” (help him into position), now praise him calmly.
  • Offering too much excited praise will reinforce his bad habit, so be calm in your praise.

Tricks for Treats

Here are some ways you can treat your dog to better training:

  • Treat and train your pet after a play session. After a rousing game of fetch, let your dog know who’s in command and reward him with a treat.
  • End every grooming session with a treat. Teach your dog the reward of good grooming by giving him a treat after brushing.
  • Never give a treat without a trick. Always make your dog obey some kind of command before rewarding him with a treat.

Preventive training means you try to prevent your dog from exhibiting inappropriate behavior by keeping an eye on him when he is with you, or by keeping him in his crate or a puppy/dog-proofed area when you cannot keep an eye on him.

The philosophy behind this type of training is that if your dog does not get an opportunity to exhibit an unwanted behavior, you do not have to modify his behavior or use negative training methods. This type of training requires more participation from the owner as far as constant supervision and consistency, but in the long run, preventive training is far less stressful on both owner and dog. This training method has two advantages:

  1. It sets you up immediately as the pack leader; and
  2. It expedites the bonding between you and your new friend.

If you choose to train in a preventive manner, you only allow your puppy or dog in the room you are in and you keep a supply of proper chew toys ready for him when the need arises. If you catch him chewing on something he should not have, such as your draperies, you would distract him by saying “NO” in a very firm tone of voice and then offer him a proper chew toy along with praise so he will associate the praise with the appropriate chew toy. Remember dogs/puppies understand approximately three tonesof voice along with body language and eye contact. For example:

  • High-pitched, excitable tones would be very effective for motivating your dog/puppy for coming to you when he is called or for heeling properly. This tone also reminds him of his littermates (this is why children have a difficult time winning the respect of a dog/puppy, since they sound like equals).
  • Matter-of-fact tones are excellent for giving commands to your dog/puppy (same tone as a bark - calm, direct, no urgency).
  • Lowered tones, which would simulate a growl from mom (which means whatever it is you are doing, stop it now). Remember, yelling or striking your dog/puppy will only confuse him and cause him to mistrust you.

Dogs/puppies do not understand being hit or grabbed. They will only learn they cannot trust you, or they will fear you. They will understand direct eye contact, tone of voice, or body language, so use it to your advantage.

Direct eye contact can mean you are looking at your dog lovingly and he will exchange your glance. Or, when giving a dog a good long stare in the eyes after he has just jumped on you and you have told him “OFF,” the stare means “I mean business.”

What about body language? Do you have a puppy who cowers when you approach him, maybe even squats and urinates just a little? You do not hit him, so why does he do this? The way you move toward a dog can be a threat in itself. Are you a lot bigger than the dog? Do you move quickly? Do you bend towards him? Encourage the dog to come to you by squatting down on his level so you are not so threatening; use a piece of his dog food or a favorite toy to convince him to come closer. Pet him when he gets very near you, do not reach out. Make sure you praise him for showing courage.

All too often people console their dog/puppy when he shows signs of being frightened, which is a normal human reaction. However, to a dog or puppy, this only confirms his fear. For example, your child drops a metal lid from a cooking pan onto the hard surface of the kitchen floor. Before you can blink an eye, your dog/puppy has thrown himself under the nearest piece of furniture shaking uncontrollably. Instead of pulling him out and consoling him (which would be the same as saying to your dog/puppy, “It’s okay to be afraid”), try enticing him out with a treat, laugh, be positive. Your dog/puppy will pick up on your mood. Show him he has nothing to fear.

What NOT to Feed Your Dog

  • Chocolate
  • Caffeine
  • Onions
  • Salt
  • Bones
  • Grapes
  • Raisins

To maintain good health, your adult dog should visit the veterinarian for a full check-up, shots, and a heartworm blood test every year and immediately if he is sick or injured. Puppies should visit the vet every three to four weeks until they are four months of age. Dogs seven years of age or older require bi-annual visits.

A healthy pet can also lead to a healthier owner. Scientific studies prove that having a pet brings tremendous health benefits:

Lowers blood pressure

Lowers cholesterol

Lowers risk of heart disease

Helps with chronic illnesses

Eases sadness and pain

Promotes faster recovery from illness

Improves survival rates for heart attack patients

Allows you to get more exercise

Reduces loneliness

Lowers stress

Improves immunity

1