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EVALUATION OF BUCHANANIA LANZANSPRENG. LEAF MUCILAGE AS HERBAL HAIR CONDITIONER
ABSTRACT
Achieving great-looking hair without synthetic chemicals is not difficult.The purpose of the hair conditioner is totemporarily improve the cosmetic appearance of the hair.Herbal hair conditioners help to make the hair more manageable and often impart a smoother and softer texture. Aim of this study is to formulate and evaluate the leaf mucilage of Buchanania lanzan Spreng. as an herbal hair conditioner so that traditional knowledge and a natural product is scientifically studied. The freshly collected leaves were shade dried, then finely powdered and were mixed separately with distilled water to obtain different concentrations viz. 5%, 7.5% and 10% (w/v).The aqueous extracts (mucilage) were evaluated by conducting several physicochemical and performance tests. Common properties of hair conditioners such as wet combing, dry combing, gloss (shine) and moisturisation property were also studied using swatches of hair tresses. 10%(w/v) concentration sample of B.lanzan leafaqueous extract (mucilage) was found to have all common properties of hair conditioners.Itwas effective as a herbal hair conditioner with good hairtexture, moisture improvement, easy to comb, improved gloss (shine) when compared with 10%(w/v) reference sample of commonly marketed herbal hair conditioner. Hence,B. lanzan can also be considered as a very good conditioning agent in commercial herbal hair conditioners.KEY WORDS:Buchanania lanzan, Leaf mucilage, Hair tresses, Herbal Hair Conditioner.
INTRODUCTION
Weall use various chemical or herbal hair conditioners to manage our hair. Most of us are in the need for our hair to be easily managed. The conditioners are used for the easy combing, to improve smoothness and shining.
Conditioning agents have no effect on hair growth and cannot affect cellular repair. Rather, they can only temporarily improve the cosmetic appearance of hair and must be reapplied as removal occurs8.
Chemicals are widely used in all types of hair conditioners. A more radical approach in reducing chemical ingredients is, by incorporating natural herbal extracts, whose functionality is equally good.People are using herbs for cleaning, beautifying and managing hair since the ancient time.With the advent of new chemical preparations, knowledge of traditional usage of herbs is becoming extinct. Achieving great-looking hair without chemicals is not difficult.
Herbal conditioners help hair to havenatural tone and fine texture. It makes us feel that there are natural ingredients in our hair. Each hair roots have oil glands which are separated because the oil from the gland coats each strand. When natural oil is not able to reach the whole length of the hair strand it becomes dull and dry. That is why we need conditioners to nourish the entire strand, from root to tip16.
Conditioners are designed to provide afew of the following functions:
- Improved wet combing
- Improved dry combing
- Increased gloss (shine)
- Increased volume and body
- Improved moisturisation9.
While interacting with rural old women, I came to know that they were using Buchanania lanzanSpreng.leaf mucilage as hair cleanser. All parts of tree are useful therapeutically and nutritionally. Not much study has been done so far on use of its leaf mucilage as hair conditioner.
AIM
The aim of the study is to formulate the leaf mucilage of B. lanzan as an herbal hair conditioner and evaluate different concentrations of aqueous extracts (mucilage)viz. 5%, 7.5% and 10% (w/v) in comparison with 10 %( w/v) reference sample of commonly marketed herbal hair conditioner by conducting physicochemical and performance tests. Also it is planned to study common properties of hair conditioners such as wet combing, dry combing, hair gloss (shine) and moisturisation property using swatches of hair tresses.
LITERATURE SURVEY
Literature survey showed that Aloe vera, Acacia concinna (Shikakai) Centellaasiatica (Brahmi), Eclipta alba (Bhringraj), Emblicaofficinalis (Amalaki), Nardostachysgrandiflora (Jatamansi), and Hibiscus rosasinensis are being utilized in commercial hair conditioners as conditioning agents14.
However, no such usage of B. lanzan has been reported so far.
Botanical name:Buchananialanzan Spreng.
Kingdom: Plantae
Order:Sapindales
Family:Anacardiaceae
Genus:Buchanania
Species:lanzan
Synonym:Buchananialatifolia (Roxb.)
Common names:
English:Chironji Tree, Almondette, Calumpong nut, Cheronjee, Cuddapah almond, Hamilton mombin , Buchanan’s mango.
Hindi: Char, Chironji, Chiraunjipiyal, Pra-savak, Priyal .
Kannada:Charoli, Kolemaavu.
Sanskrit: Akhatth, Muni, Piyala, Prasavakh, Priyala, Rajanadanha, Upavatth4.
Buchanania lanzan is a socio-economically important tree.It is found as natural wild in the forest, marginal lands and occasionally in farmer’s fieldsin most parts of India.Fresh ripen fruits and extracted seed kernels have several nutritional and medicinal properties. Seed kernel and extracted kernel oil are used for the preparation of several sweetmeat Indian dishes and isalso used for coating tablets for delayed action. Traditional indigenous knowledge revealed immense importance of almost all parts of the plant viz., roots, leaves, fruits, seeds and gum for various medicinal applications like cure for blood disorder, fever,ulcers, burning sensation of body, diarrhea, dysentery, asthma and snakebite15.
B. lanzan is a medium-sized deciduous tree, growing to about 50 feet tall (Fig. 1). It bears fruits each containing a single seed, which is popular as an edible nut, known as chironji. It can be identified by the dark grey crocodile hide-like bark with red blaze. It has thick leathery leaves which are broadly oblong, with blunt tip and rounded base, alternate and petiolate (Fig. 2). Leaves have 10-20 pairs of straight, parallel veins. Pyramidal panicles of greenish white flowers appear in early spring (January- March). Fruits ripen from April to May and remain on the tree for quite a long time. Seed kernel has a pleasant sweetish acidic flavor 2,7,20.
Fig.2 Fresh leaves of Buchanania lanzan
Fig.1 BuchananialanzanSpreng.
All parts of the plant are used for the treatment of various disorders. The oil from the seeds is used to reduce granular swelling of the neck 10.Ointment is made from the kernel which is used to relieve itch and prickly heat. The gum from the bark used for treating diarrhea and intercostal pains and leaves are used for promoting wound healing11, 12.
The juice of the leaves is digestive, expectorant and purgative. The leaves are used as fodder for sheep, goat and cattle13, 20. The rhizome of B. lanzan finds an important place in indigenous medicine as an expectorant, diuretic and carminative.It has anticancer, antihypertensive, and larvicidal activity. It is used for the treatment of various skin disorders, rheumatism and diabetes mellitus3, 4, 10, 15, 18, 21.
Preliminary phytochemical investigations on leaves of B. lanzanwere done by Shalini Kapoor Mehtaet al(2010) and found to have alkaloids, carbohydrates, glycosides, tannins, and flavonoids19.
B. lanzan contains albuminoids 28%, tannins 2.64% and mucilage 2.5% 15.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
Plant Collection and Authentication
Fresh leaves of Buchanania lanzan were collected from Nekkilady village of Puttur Taluk, D.K. District, Karnataka, in the month of April/May 2012.Authentication of samples was done by Mr. SrikrishnaGanarajaBhat, H.O.D. Of Botany, Vivekananda College, Puttur, D.K. (Annexure 1).
Preparation of leaf mucilage
The collected leaves were cleaned and shade dried. The dried leaves(Fig.3) were cut into small pieces and ground to powder in a conventional Kitchen Mixer. Then it was sieved to remove the large particles of leaf veins and only the fine powder was chosen for this study. It was weighed to get 5gms, 7.5gms and 10gms samples. The samples were mixed with 100ml of distilled water in glass containers. The mixture was stirred continuously for 5 minutes. It was allowed to settle for 30 minutes. Then thesupernatantwas centrifuged in stoppered graduated centrifugal tubes at 5000 rpm for 10 minutes. The supernatantmucilage was separated (Fig. 4). Later it was filtered through a single layer muslin cloth and stored in separate containers for further use. Thus, mucilage of 5%, 7.5% and 10% (w/v) samples were obtained.
Fig.3. Dry leaves of Buchanania lanzan Fig.4. Buchanania lanzandry leaf
mucilage in a jar
and Authentication:ture by ityr 11111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111Evaluation methods
To evaluate the prepared samples of 5%, 7.5% and 10% (w/v) during this study, quality control tests for physicochemical properties such as average yield, appearance and color,pH, density and electrical conductivitywere performed. Performance tests namely foam formation, foam volume and dirt dispersion were conducted1.Common properties of hair conditioners such as wet combing, dry combing, gloss (shine) and moisturisation property were also examined using swatches of hair tresses of Indian origin.
The results were compared with marketed Herbal Hair Conditioner of Himalaya Herbal Healthcare Company (Protein Conditioner for Normal Hair) which was considered as reference sample.10gms of this herbal hair conditioner was mixed with 100ml of Distilled water to get a 10 %( w /v) sample. Also plain Dist. Water was used as another reference. Whenever tests were conducted on different days, fresh samples were prepared.
Phytochemical analysis, Determination of Nitrogen content and in vitro Antifungal activity of the aqueous leaf extract was assessed at refuted institutions.
Physicochemical Tests
Averagemucilage yield
The percentage of mucilage yield during this study in three different tests was recorded and average mucilage yield is shown in Table 1.
Appearance
All samples were observed for their physical appearance by visual inspections. The samples were evaluated in terms of their colorand fluidity. Observation during this study is recorded in Table 1.
Determination of pH
The pH of samples in distilled water was determined at room temperature by Digital pH meter (Model EQ-610) at the Dept. of Chemistry lab, Vivekananda College, Puttur, Karnataka (Annexure 2). Three sets of samples were tested on different days and average values were taken.Observation during this study is recorded in Table 1.
Determination of electrical conductivity
The electrical conductivity was determined at room temperature by conductivity meter(Model EQ-635) at the Dept. of Chemistry lab, Vivekananda College,Puttur, Karnataka (Annexure 2). Three sets of samples were tested on different days and average values were taken.Observation during this study is recorded in Table 1.
Estimation of Density
The density was determined at room temperature by Ostwood’sViscometer at the Dept. of Physics laboratory, Vivekananda College Puttur, Karnataka(Annexure 2). Three sets of samples were tested on different days and average values were taken.Observation during this study is recorded in Table 1.
Phytochemical analysis
Aqueous extract of B. lanzan was analyzed for phytochemical contents at S.D.M College for research in Ayurveda and Allied sciences, Udupi, Karnataka,as a cross reference of literature available (Annexure3).
Determination of Nitrogen content
The total nitrogen content of non-basic ethyl acetate leaf extract material was assessed at Dept. of Chemical Engineering, NITK, Surathkal, Karnataka.(Annexure4).
Estimation of Antifungal activity
In vitro antidandruffactivity of aqueous extract on Dandruff (Malassezia sp.) was assessed at Kasturba Medical College, Manipal, Karnataka, in the Dept. of Microbiology by Agar plate method in comparison with Ketoconazole(Annexure 5).
Performance Tests
Performance tests such as foam producing ability, foam volume and dirt dispersion ability were assessed.
Foam formation and volume
Foam formation and volume test of all the samples were determined by mixing 2 ml of each sample with 8ml water of distilled water in graduated stoppered test tube and shaken vigorously at 1 minute intervals for 3 minutes. Observationduring this study is recorded in Table 2.
Dirt dispersion
5 small pieces of hair swatches, each weighing 0.5gm were taken. Each swatch was dipped in Indian ink and air-dried. These were dipped 10 times in all the samples and also in distilled water for 1 minute. Then these swatches were pressed between folds of white cotton cloth. The amounts of ink stain in the cloth were evaluated.Observation during this study is recorded in Table 2.
Common properties of hair conditioners
Indian origin hair fibers were used in these studies, collected from private individuals and using these hair fibers small swatches were prepared. All hair swatches used in these studies were approximately 14 -15 inches long hair tresses, each weighing about 5g was prepared for various experiments. The hair tresses were prewashed with distilled water and air-dried.
Wet combing
Swatches of hair tresses were immersed in 5%, 7.5% and10%(w/v) samples ofB. lanzanmucilage,10 %(w/v) commercial herbal hair conditioner as a reference and distilled water for comparison for 5 minutes. Afterwards these tresses were removed and washed with common tap water. The excess water was squeezed outand dried with common bath towel. To assess wet combing, each tress was combed by hand, using a fine-toothed nylon comb (20-22 teeth per linear inch).During combing, the tress was held firmly in one hand and combed with the other hand, using a firm, smooth vigorous combing action for the entire length of the tress and occasionally changing the side of the hair tress being combed. The time required for detangling effect was recorded, and then it was graded as poor, moderate, good, and very good. The ease of combing was observed and degree of difficulty was recorded. Observation during this studyis recorded inTable 3.
Dry combing
Different sets of swatches of hair tresses were immersed in 5%, 7.5% and10 %( w/v)sample of B. lanzanmucilage, 10 %( w/v) commercial herbal hair conditioner as a reference and Distilled water for comparison for 5minutes. Afterwards these tresses were takenout and washed with common tap water. The excess water was squeezed outand dried with common bath towel. The tresses were then dried with Hair drier till completely dry. The same combing procedure as in wet combing was repeated and results were recorded accordingly.Observationduring this study is recorded in Table 3.
Gloss (shine)
Once again different sets of swatches ofhairtresses wereimmersed in 5%, 7.5% and10% (w/v)sample of B. lanzanmucilage, 10 %(w/v) commercial herbal hair conditioner as a reference and Distilled water for comparison. Afterwards these tresses were removed and washed with common tap water. The excess water was squeezed out, and dried with common bath towel. Tresses were observed for gloss (shine) before and after experiment and graded as Dull, Moderately dull and Goodobservationduring this study is recorded in Table 3.
Moisturisation property
After the above test those tresses were observed for moisturisation property by feeling by touch. Suppleness and smoothness were evaluated and compared with reference samples immersed tresses. Grading was recorded as poor, less, moderate and good.Observation during this studyis recorded in Table 3.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Physicochemicaltests
Average mucilage yield
The average yield of mucilage obtained during this study was 70.3%, 65%, and 60.3% respectively as shown in Table 1.
Appearance
The results of appearance byvisual inspection are shown in Table1. It can be noticed that during this study all the samples were light yellow. Hence depending on intensity of color it was graded as +, ++ and +++. The extracted and purified mucilage was light yellow colored and odorless. The 10 %( w/v) reference sample was pale white.
Fluidity
It was found to be watery in 5%, slightly thick in 7.5% and thick in 10% sample and reference sample as shown in Table1.
Mucilage is glutinous substance. Mucilage is formed in the normal growth of plant by mucilage secreting glands15. Hence the 10% sample is thick in consistency.
pH Estimation
The pH of sample has been shown to be important for improving and enhancing the qualities of hair. Mild acidity prevents swelling and promotes tightening of the scales, thereby including sheen.The optimal pH range of hair conditioners is about 4.5 to 5.517.
As seen in theTable 1,during this study, 10% sample shows a lower pH of 4.60 nearly the same as the 10 % reference sample.
The acidic pH will close (compact) the cuticle layer of the hair. Acidic conditioners give shiny, bouncy hair. They do create shine, and add elasticityto the hair17.
Electrical conductivity
Electrical conductivity test results are shown in Table 1.During this studyconductivity of 10% sample had more conductivity value than all other samples including the reference sample. Conductivity is a measure of the concentration of ions in a solution. Increased electrical conductivity is the essential property of an ideal hair conditioner17.
Density
During this studyas shown in Table 1.density of all the mucilagesamples ranged from 1005 to 1016, whereasit was 1017for 10% reference sample and 997 of distilled water. Though it was less than reference sample, the 10% sample was almost nearer to it.Increased density is the essential property of an ideal hair conditioner17.
Table 1:Physicochemical test results (Consolidated)
Sample / Mucilage yield % / Appearance / Fluidity / pH / ElectricalConductivity
(/2mU) / Density
(kg/m3)
5 % / 70.3 / Light yellow(+) / Watery / 5.58 / 1.008/2mU / 1005
7.5 % / 65 / Light yellow(++) / Slightly thick / 5.07 / 1.238/2mU / 1012
10 % / 60.3 / Light yellow(+++) / Thick / 4.60 / 1.382/2mU / 1016
Reference / ----- / Pale White / Thick / 4.49 / 1.193/2mU / 1017
Dist. water / ----- / Colorless / --- / 6.05 / 0.056/2mU / 997
Phytochemical analysis
The results obtained during this study are in agreement with the earlier work done by ShaliniKapooret al19(Annexure3).
Determination of Nitrogen content
The total nitrogen content of non-basic ethyl acetate leaf extract material was 0.61 as N%(Annexure4).
Anti-Dandruff test
In vitro antidandruffassay of aqueous extract on Dandruff (Malassezia sp.) during this studywas negative (Annexure5).
Performance Tests
Foam formation and volume
Foam producing abilityduring this studywas nil in 5% and 7.5%, scanty in 10% and referencesampleas shown in Table2. This may be due to absence of saponins in mucilage.
Dirt dispersion