2015 Cambridge Business & Economics Conference ISBN : 9780974211428
Investigation of Consumer Motives for Purchase of Cotton (Lawn) Fabric as a Fashion Statement: Case of Pakistani Female Sentiment
Keywords:
Brand Perception, Consumer Behavior, Cotton (Lawn) Fabric, Female Consumer Sentiment, Hedonism, Motivation, Rationale, Status
Track: Consumer Behavior in Emerging Markets
Author: Ms. Yasmin Zafar
Assistant Professor
Department of Marketing
Institute of Business Administration, Karachi, Pakistan
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Biography: Ms. Yasmin Zafar is Assistant Professor at Institute of Business Administration, Karachi. She teaches consumer behavior, brand and services marketing; She has published teaching cases and been invited to speak at international forums as a corporate professional. She has developed academic curricula at both graduate and undergraduate business programs. She has convened a series of International Marketing Conferences in Pakistan. Her current research interests are in consumer behavior of female, and Gen X, millennials and working women in Pakistan.
ABSTRACT
The study of consumer motives for purchase of cotton (lawn) fabric as a fashion statement is of interest for all Pakistani marketers. Fashion trend cycles in the apparel industry seem to accelerate despite the mature stage and slow growth seen. The fashion cycle lasts on average six to twelve weeks and the presence of more and more brands has created a competitive environment unheard of in the past (Rutter and Edwards, 1999). This major change is because of the expanded role of female consumers as more and more enter the labor market (Shim and Kotsiopulos, 1993). This has resulted in higher disposable income for the female consumer; consequently female sentiment is recognized by apparel marketers as a sought after target market (Cassill and Drake, 1987).
This investigative studyimpinges upon the reasons for the high growth and mushrooming of cotton fabric manufacturers in recent years in Pakistan. It describes female consumer motivation variables influencing female sentiment like functionality, brand name, self-identity, reference group, rationale, and hedonism which influences cotton fabric choice and decision making.
While prior research has investigated purchase and behavior motives, very few have done in the context offemale consumers' choice of clothing as a fashion statement. The initial research study explored the purchase behavior of female consumers of Pakistani cotton (lawn) fabric(Zafar, 2013)[1]. The results indicated that the key variables included functional and emotional stimuli as predominant motivators for purchase. There was limited generalizability of the exploratory findings. This provided a road map for the current study whereby the findings need to be validated by quantitative analysis. Those uncovered variables have now been operationalized in the current study. This paper further investigates these motives with qualitative measures and analysis.
INTRODUCTION
The study of consumer motives for purchase of cotton (lawn) fabric as a fashion statement is of interest for all marketers because the fashion trend cycles in the Pakistani apparel industry seem to accelerate despite the slow growth seen. The average successful clothing trend lasts only six to twelve weeks and the presence of more and more brands has created a competitive environment unheard of in the past[2]. This major change is because of the expanded role of Pakistani female consumers as more and more enter the working force[3]. This has resulted in higher disposable income for the female consumer; consequently female sentiment is recognized by apparel marketers as a sought after target market[4].
While prior research has investigated purchase and behavior motives, very few have done in the context offemale consumers' choice of clothing as a fashion statement. The initial research study explored the purchase behavior of female consumers of Pakistani cotton (lawn) fabric. The results indicated that the key variables included functional and emotional stimuli as predominant motivators for purchase. This provided a road map for the current study whereby the findings need to be validated by quantitative analysis. There was limited generalizability of the exploratory findings. Those uncovered variables have now been operationalized in the current study.
This paper further investigates consumer with an attempt to understand the consumer sentiment of Pakistani women who purchase cotton (Lawn) fabric as a fashion statement. This descriptive studyimpinges upon the reasons for the mushrooming of cotton fabric manufacturers in recent years in Pakistan. It includes female consumer motivational variables influencing female sentiment. These include personality, cultural value and belief systems, brand and self- perceptions and influence of certain key reference groups on decision making,
Findings show that consumer motives for purchase of cotton (lawn) fabric predominantly were its functional characteristics, namely convenience, ease of use, quality, durability, style, design, uniqueness, and value for money. The important emotional attributes emerged included self-identity, self-concept, buying experience rationale and hedonistic buying experience. It was found that these females purchased the cotton fabric garments which allowed them to achieve feelings ofuniqueness and belonging, female sentiment and as a fashion statement
LITERATURE REVIEW
Consumer motives for purchase are based on two theoretical frameworks – the optimal distinctiveness theory and the social impact theory. According to (Brewer, 1991), the optimal distinctiveness theory, the social identification is the strongest for social groups or categories at that level of inclusiveness which resolves the conflict between needs for differentiation of the self and assimilation with others. This influences the purchase behavior of cotton (lawn) fabric as a fashion statement and influences the consumer purchase patterns of Pakistani females. Such behavior saysLatane (1981)[5], relates to a social impact as and describes it as any of the great variety of changes in physiological states and subjective feelings, motives and emotions, which occur in an individual are a result of the real, implied, or imagined presence or actions of other individuals. It was found that there was a high importance of the influence of reference groups and a sense of belonging in the study participants.
Utilizing Brewer’s theory of optimal distinctiveness (1991, 2003) to examine the trends, it was found that the respondent females maintained their sentiment through purchase and consumption of cotton (lawn) fabric because it allowed them to achieve feelings of both uniqueness and belongingness with social impact on self-identity and self-image.
Qualitative work in marketing purpose also involves discovering differentiated expressions within particular emotional stimuli that reflect (me) analytical rigor and focused creativity (ii) people’s actual experiences of brands and (iii) encourage qualitative learning. People do not necessarily have rational relationships with consumption objects. This was also discovered in the results of the current study and the findings show a significant correlation between functionality and buying experience rationale. The reason to believe of the marketing process is almost always a product of a post-hoc rationalization of an emotional response(Woods, 2004)[6]; The study findings show that there is a significant correlation between functionality and buying experience hedonism and self-indulgence in the study participants.
The demand for status goods is inspired by social rather than by utilitarian product attributes and raises particular difficulties for consumer researchers. Gutman (1982)Defined a means Bend chain as one that “seeks to explain how a product or service selection facilitates the achievement of desired end states. Such a model consists of elements that represent the major consumer processes that link values to behavior.” In essence, such models focus on three elements; product attributes, purchase consequences and personal values. Limitations of a means Bend chain include (me) respondents may be inarticulate and simply unable to answer questions; (ii) they may be hostile and unwilling to respond. However, another reason is thata conspicuous consumer can appear to be willing respondent but have the ability to build entirely convincing yet false ladders to explain their market behavior. There is no reported evidence to show that ladderingmethodologies are not able to identify such consumer motives and further empirical work needs to be done in this area (Mason, 1995)[7]
Kinch1967[8]argues that the subjective experience imparted by the consumption of many products substantially contributes to the consumer’s structuring of social reality, self-concept, and behavior. Moreover, the consumer often relies upon the social meanings inherent in products as a guide to the performance of social roles, especially when role demands are novel. This concept is seen in the results of the consumer motive behavior of Pakistani females when purchasing cotton fabric (lawn)In the study findings there is a significant correlation between functionality and both brand name and self- identity. These constructs are a function of social reality, self-concept and behavior.
Shrauger and Schoeneman (1979)[9] in their paper identify one emerging research stream, termed the “experiential view”, which emphasizes that many consumption experiences lie beyond the realm of purchase decisions: “fantasies, feelings, and fun” are also vital consumption phenomena They say that a significant portion of consumption behavior is actually social behavior-and vice-versa. They say that overall, symbolic interactionism asserts at least three fundamental postulates; (I) A consumer’s self-concept is based on perceptions of the responses of others.(ii) A consumer’s self-concept functions to direct behavior and (iii) A consumer’s perception of the responses of others to some degree reflect those responses.The constructs of brand name, self- identity, reference groups and hedonic buying behavior all were reported as significantly important to the study respondents.
Figure 1 summarizes the divergence between the traditional perspective of products as responses and the proposition that products can serve as stimuli or causes of behavior as well.The figure views products as responses rather than causes of behavior. The researcher argues that issues tend to center more upon the processes that affect the ultimate purchase decision and less upon the processes by which the consumer actually uses what he or she has bought. A product is viewed as the material satisfaction of a need (McCarthy 1981). The focus is on the effect of economic, psychological, and sociological variables on product choice, rather than on the effects of products on the consumer’s experience.
Purchase of cotton (lawn) fabric, emerged as a function of functionality, brand name, self-identity, opinion of reference groups, and hedonistic purchases. The product not only served as stimulus; but also as a response. The product was purchased for functional utility (stimulus) and to satisfy female sentiment; based on hedonistic emotional motives (response).
Figure 1[10]Proposed Bi-Directional Relationship between Products and Consumers
Products as Responses
Products as Stimuli
Emotions are ubiquitous throughout marketing. They influence information processing, mediate responses to persuasive appeals, measure the effects of marketing stimuli, initiate goal setting, enact goal-directed behaviors, and serve as ends and measures of consumer welfare. (Bagozzi et al., 1999)[11]Pakistani female sentiment is predominantly driven by the need for compliance and association with the cohort.
Within a cultural studies framework, Denzin (2001)[12] discuss consumption as more than theacquisition, use and divestment of goods and services. They say it represents a site where power, ideology, gender, and social class circulate and shape one another. The concept of complexity and ambivalence lies at the heart of consumer attitudes towards luxury. Complexity, first, as attitude components are numerous and intertwined; ambivalence, second, as attitude components may be contradictory, not only across consumers, but more interestingly within consumers. (Dubois et al., 2001)The market for luxury goods has experienced considerable growth over the last two decades. According to Veblen Effect(Bagwell and Bernheim, 1996)[13], the affluent classes of a given society express their economic superiority over the less well-off by the purchase, and, above all, the show-off of these goods which serve as status symbols. Micro-economic consumer theory suggests that these consumption patterns can be identified at the individual consumer level in terms of “conformism” and “snobbism”.
Pakistani society is rather intertwined and dependent on word-of-mouth among close reference groups, families and friends. Consumers are trapped within a hegemonic marketplace. The Pakistani female from all socio-economic classes and from all walks of life consumes this product. The product is ubiquitous and synonymous with female fashion and practice. Brand names are used as fashion statement to express wealth and status among the cohort. It is therefore seen that the cotton (lawn) fabric industry has seen a burgeoning growth of manufacturers and designer brands. From a mere handful in 2005 they have grown to 108 in 2010 and now there are more than 150 brands in the marketplace.
The purchase by females reflects both a conformist and snobbish attitude. Conformist, also called “bandwagon”, behavior occurs when consumer demand for the product increases just because other people are also purchasing it. Snobbish behavior is exactly the opposite: An individual tends to buy less of the product if others are buying the same. These two types of conspicuous consumer behavior correspond to the desire not to be identified with the poor, and the desire to be identified with the rich. Such snobbish and conformist consumption motives may give rise to the so-called “Veblen effect” but shortcomings exist concerning research on luxury consumption. First, despite the growing body of research on this important sector, a systematic exploration of the domain of the concept of “luxury,” as seen by the consumers is still lacking. Kapferer (1998)[14]Points to a few objective attributes, such as quality and price, as primary associations with luxury. In the Pakistani market place many manufacturers have developed unique “snob” value brands which offer only one of a kind design; while there are others who practice economies of scale to make the product economical and affordable to the masses.
Young shoppers are predisposed to various types of fashion influences (Comunale)[15] discusses that when it comes to branding, one of the most indecisive groups is Generation Y (born between 1985 and 2000). This group realizes that clothes offer personality and confidence; represent social standing, and a method for expressing individuality through styling.Generation Y makes up 26% of the study respondent population. The current study resulted in a significant correlation between functionality and buying experience hedonism and self-satisfaction.So in order for cotton (lawn) fabric brands to attract this segment, the market must focus on branding. Hence anundeniable imagery of cotton (lawn) fabric fashion brands has led to continuing success and high appeal to this generation.
A study by District (2010)[16]attempted to distinguish evaluation outcomes of likely future satisfaction from feelings or emotions prior to the act of purchase, and assess the impact of pre purchase satisfaction on the purchase behavior of first time buyers. It was hypothesized that; Pre purchase satisfaction and anticipated satisfaction are related but distinct constructs; And pre purchase satisfaction levels were higher for potential first time buyers who buy than those who do not buy. The results supported both propositions, and suggested that anticipated satisfaction and pre purchase satisfaction are distinguishable constructs, and pre purchase satisfaction is a predictor of the purchase behavior of first time buyers. Respondents of the study whether first time or repeat buyers both supported the hypotheses that there is a significant correlation between functionality and buying experience hedonism