BIKE SPECS
UCC TEEN EXTREME MOUNTAIN BIKING 2017
A mountain bike and helmet are required for this event, as well as the items on the packing list. If you don’t have a bike, start asking people you know (now) or check with a local bike shop about rentals. As a last resort, Rick might have an extra bike or two available.
Below are some VERY important tips about the bike you will need . . .
MOUNTAIN BIKE
Notice the emphasis on mountain. It should not only look like a mountain bike, you should be relatively certain it will actually hold together over the “bumps and jumps.”
BIKE CONDITION
Your bike must be in EXCELLENT working condition. I don’t care if it looks like Frankenstein on wheels (the bike, not you) as long as ALL features are working perfectly. Going uphill can be a real problem when your bike decides for itself when to change gears. And, if the brakes don’t work on the downhill, well, stopping is more a matter of “how” and “when” than “if”. The tires must be in good shape, and the tubes must hold air. The brakes, gears, pedals, frame, wheels, hand grips, etc. must all be in perfect running order. While I do believe in miracles, I’m quite sure your bike’s condition will not improve over the course of the weekend!
Be sure to take your bike on a ride well before the event and make sure everything works, including ALL gears and BOTH brakes. If you cannot do the repairs or adjustments yourself, be sure to get the bike into a repair shop for a checkup and tune-up.
MINIMUM SPECS
The bike needs knobby tires. Shocks are not necessary, although they do help with both comfort and control. Multiple gears are not mandatory, but highly encouraged. BMX bikes are only OK for the extremely physically fit, as riders have to pedal twice as fast as everyone else. (Visualize: crazed squirrel in a cage).
The bike must fit you, just like clothing. You should be able to stand over the cross bar, flat-footed, with about an inch or two clearance between you and the bar.
USELESS PARTS
So, what’s a kick stand for? Most avid riders have no idea; true story. BEFORE you load up the bike, consider losing those unnecessary parts like kick stands, racks, bells, shiny metal fenders, bike locks, etc. Anything that adds weight and provides no valuable function can stay home. You will be happier for it: less noise and less mass to move up the hills.
SHOPPING?
If you currently happen to be bike shopping, here is a bit of advice . . .
Go to a real bike shop. Superstores like Wal-Mart carry bikes for casual riding around town, but they may not survive a trail. Bike shops generally have much better bikes that hold up way longer, and the people there can point you to a bike that fits your size and riding style, which is super important.
Just because a bike has shocks does not mean it is a good one. It is the quality of the parts that matter, a great deal. In fact, cheap shocks, etc. can be more of a problem than none at all, if they are heavy and don’t work all that well. Poor components can do weird things, like shift when you least expect it and can be nearly impossible to fix.
Fat, knobby tires are best for off-road traction. Smooth tires are for road riding.
In general, the less a bike weighs, the higher the quality. Less weight also means more fun on the trail.
Lots of gears are a good thing. Most current model mountain bikes have 9 or more gears in the back and 1 to 3 up front. The number and size of chain rings depends on the type of riding you prefer.
Install a water bottle cage or plan to use a water backpack (such as a Camelback, Dakine, etc.).
Look for quick-release levers on both the front and rear axles. If a bike is missing either of these, you may want to question what else they skimped on. However, some high-end bikes may not have a quick release on the seat post.
There are various types of pedals available, but if you aren’t a hard core rider yet, it’s best to stick with “normal” pedals, not the clip-in type. Later, you can easily swap out the pedals for something different if you want to switch it up.
Mountain bike wheels come in 20 and 24 inch sizes for pre-adults and 26, 27.5 and 29 inch wheels for adults. The largest wheels (27.5 and 29 inch) are really great for smoothing out the bumps, but they are not always the very best choice, depending on your height and riding habits. Tubeless wheels and tires are an option on higher-end bikes, which can be helpful in avoiding flats. Again, a bike shop can help you make the right choice.
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