The Hook – or pursuit of great 60 ft. times.
Turbo Regal Edition
1. Bracing: To minimize twisting of the car be sure to install the front frame braces and rear seat braces. These will prevent cracking of the “A” and “B” pillars.
2. Body mounts: To considerably stiffen your Turbo Regal.
a. As a minimum replace the lower washer on positions #3, #4 (both are between the front and rear tire and/or the #7 bushing (behind the rear tire) with lower bushings from other G Bodies.
b. Many members raise the body off the frame and add the GNX bushing in position #5. There is none there in other Turbo Regals.
c. You might consider replacing the upper bushings while at it, as these cars are getting older these are beginning to sag a little. Urethane body mounts are available.
3. Suspension components:
a. Be sure to check the condition of the passenger side upper rear bushing as the heat from the downpipe significantly reduces this parts life. If mileage is higher rebuild the front end completely. For cars trailered to the track zero toe in offers less rolling resistance.
b. Upper and lower rear control arm bushings may be replaced with 3rd Generation Camero LT-1 bushings that are significantly stiffer.
4. Front anti-sway bar: To eliminate weight on the front of the car some racers remove the 1 ¼ inch bar entirely, some install the bar from a N/A Regal while others look for the hollow bar from a 3rd generation Trans Am
5. Lower control arms: Since these are stamped from sheet metal to form a “U” they are great for tensile loads (pulling the ends apart), but not for compression loads (pushing the ends together). It is very helpful to weld short sections of pipe between the rear control arm mounting holes and a plate across the bottom of the “U” to box these in.
Many racers prefer to use aftermarket lower control arms, or Southside Machine Co. bars that are a step above stock boxed in lower control arms.
6. Upper control arms: Unless you need to adjust the pinion angle the stock units are adequate for bracket racing. Some people feel these need to be boxed ina as well. For all out racing adjustable upper control arms are a must.
7. Control arm mounts; To reinforce the frame mounts for the control arms there are connectors available that bolt between these points. Unfortunately there is often clearance problems with the oval mufflers we often use.
8. Springs: For optimum weight transfer, consider stiffer springs in front (stock rate of 420lb/in) and softer springs in back.
9. Air bags/Sway bar: To offer pre-load to the rear passenger tire install an inflatable air bag inside the coil spring. Some folks like the huge ATR rear sway bar that will help the back end level.
10. Shock Absorbers: For bracket racers the KYB shock absorber is an excellent value. For serious racers adjustable Koni’s are the ticket. Racers may use 90/10 units on the front to help weight transfer and 60/40 units on the back.
The Hook – or pursuit of great 60 ft. times.
Gran Sport Edition
1. Body Mounts: These cars are now over 28 years old. For consistent racing be sure to replace both upper and lower body bushings.
2. Frame Braces: The points where the control arms bolt to the frame are a weak link. It is recommend to weld braces at these points. On the lower control arm an extra hole may be drilled for adjustments.
3. Upper Control Arms: For serious racing the use of adjustable control arms is recommended.
4. Lower Control Arms: These are already boxed in on the Gran Sports. For serious racing the use of aftermarket bars or Southside Machine Co. bars are recommended.
5. Front Suspension: With these cars being at least 28 years old it is recommended these be rebuilt. For cars trailered to the track zero tow in offers the least rolling resistance.
6. Springs: Replacement springs are recommended. Here Moroso or Comp. Engineering front springs and fairly soft rear springs with an air bag are recommended.
7. Shocks: For bracket racers KYB offers great value for a performance shock absorber. For serious racing Koni is the shock to use.
General things to do in pursuit of the Hook
1. Weight Transfer: Move as much weight from the front of the car as possible to help in weight transfer at launch. Battery relocation is an easy one.
2. Weigh Savings / transfer: Several pounds of weight can be removed from our cars. Consider such things as, plastic headlamps, aluminum rear brake drums, drive shaft and bumper supports, light weigh wheels, skinny front tires, large single exhaust over dual exhaust, fiberglass bumpers, hood, doors and trunk lid. You are better off leaving the spare tire and jack in to help with weight over the rear tires.
3. Tires: Run the biggest rear tire that will not rub on the frame or fender wells. Be sure to run with adequate tire pressure and on the proper rim, to prevent the center from cupping upwards. Popular street tires include BFG Drag Radials and Nittos.
4. C-clip eliminator: Serious racers should convert their differential to prevent the wheel from pulling out in event of axle breakage.
5. Bent differential housing: For automobiles producing high torque this is very common. Be sure to check for the housing to within tolerance.
6. Scale the car: Scaling will determine the loading of each tire. This will help determine changes that should and should not be done to the car.
7. Learn and apply the three Laws of Sir Issac Newton.
a. Every body perseveres in its state of rest, or of uniform motion in a right line, unless it is compelled to change that state by forces impressed thereon.
b. The alteration of motion is ever proportional to the motive force impressed; and is made in the direction of the right line in which that force is impressed.
c. To every action there is always opposed an equal reaction; or the mutual actions of two bodies upon each other are always equal, and directed to contrary parts.
Key points from Charlie Evans CCGSCA Technical Session 5/21/00