Seven Rib Pork Roast

Seven Rib Pork Roast

By Charlie Burke

While I was in college, my family lived “above the notches” in Sugar Hill, New Hampshire, a beautiful town featuring views of Franconia Notch, Mt. Lafayette and neighboring peaksand which has changed little over the years. Bette Davis had a home there but was rarely sighted, andJohn Harman aged and shipped cheddar cheese from his combination store and post office, well before the popularity of mail ordered foods. ( John is long gone, but the store still bears his name and sells great cheddar.

One summer I worked at Magoon’s Grocery store, which sold prime meat and high endS.S Pierce food in Littleton. The butcher, Leonard Carbonneau, cut all of the meats and every transaction was accompanied by his opinions on the quality of the different cuts and instructions for cooking. His cousin, Ray Carbonneau, stocked canned truffles and other exotic ingredientsto complete the experience for there loyal customers.

With rare exception, the local butcher shop with its knowledgeable butcher is a thing of the past, and most shoppers do not have the opportunity to get advice when buying meat. It was a pleasant surprise, then, while shopping for a holiday dinner this year I met Mike Edwards, the amiable manager of the meat department of New England-based Market Basket* in Tilton, New Hampshire. I asked about the availability of pork crown rib roasts, and he said it would be no problem. He hesitated, and then asked why I wanted this particular roast. I explained it was for Christmas, and I thought I’d feature it in this column.

Hereminded me of Leonard years ago, pointing out the advantages, or disadvantages, of center loin roast, sirloin roast and 7 – rib roast (also known as rib end roast, rib end pork loin, and pork loin end). He called it the “prime rib” of pork. I learned that, although the former two are more expensive, they contain less fat and connective tissue which means they lack the flavor and moistness of the rib roast.

Try this cut, which is ideal for roasting. The bones add flavor and keep the meat juicy, while the leftovers stay moist when reheated and make tender flavorful sandwiches. Coating it with a layer of savory bread crumbs enhances the rich pork flavor.

Serves 5- 6:

7-rib pork roast (5-6 pounds)

½ cup olive oil

1 cup fresh breadcrumbs

Generous 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 garlic cloves

1 teaspoon whole pepper corns

1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds

2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage or rosemary (use ½ if substituting dry)

1 ½ teaspoon coarse sea salt

Bring roast to room temperature, covered with a towel (3 - 4 hours)

Grind garlic, pepper, coriander, herbs in a spice blender or pulverize with a mortar and pestle. Mix with olive oil, bread crumbs and mustard and spread over all surfaces of the meat, preferably when it is removed from the refrigerator.

Preheat oven to 475. Place roast, bone down in a shallow roasting pan, add ½ inch of water or chicken stock to pan and place on the lowest shelf of the oven. Roast for 1 ½ hour and check temperature in the thickest part of the meat away from the bone. Remove from the oven when temperature reaches 155 degrees. Let stand for 20 minutes, during which the temperature will rise to medium - 160 degrees. Served with a Cabernet Sauvignon or other full bodied red and your choice of vegetables, this roast is fine enough for entertaining, yet economical and easy for family meals.

*Regular readers know we recommend buying locally, but supply of local meats is far exceeded by demand. Next best, I believe, is supporting local or New England based businesses.