19/2 2001

MJ Ib wagon

Assembly instructions

Please observe that the coupler height is higher than recommended by Kadee, since it is placed at the height of the original buffer. Although uncoupling in 0n2 is possible with a large magnet under the track, do note that placing a magnet between the rails will not work due to the too narrow gauge (I use H0 couplers for 0n2 gauge).

Should problems occur you are welcome to call me at: +41 76 3673690. I hope you enjoy the kit!

General notes:

  • The parts are numbered with a letter and a number. E = etched part, C = cast item and P = purchased item (not manufactured from my original). The parts are listed in the Bill of Material.
  • Etched parts can be cut out with a knife or scalpel. Press out the rivets where required, either with a rivet tool (from for example NorthWest Short Line) or with a dull needle. Folding is done in the usual way unless stated otherwise. In some cases the parts will need to be straightend out as they tend to curve due to induced stresses in the brass plate manufacturing process.
  • Remove flash from cast items.
  • Soldering with low temperature solder (145°C) is recommended for all brass. For attaching wood to brass, epoxy is recommended.

Required tools:

  • Screw tap M2,0 mm
  • Drills Ø0,5, Ø1,6, Ø2,0 mm
  • Soldering iron
  • Files, metal saw, pliers, screw driver for M2, ...

i.Carbody

See ”Exploded view 1”, ”Exploded view 2”, ”Exploded view 3”

  1. Take out part E1 and press out all rivets. Fold together step by step beginning with the outer flanges. Fold 10-20° at a time using a pair of pliers working along the length of the flange.
  2. Solder a M2 nut, a 1mm thick brass piece (not shown in the exploded view!) and E15 to E14 with a screw temporary in place. Solder the assembly to E1 as bogie mounting pad. The 1mm piece is to give the wagon its correct height.
  3. Repeat the procedure using E16, a 1mm brass piece (not shown in the exploded view!) and E14 to make the second pad.
  4. Solder a M2 nut to E17 with a screw temporary in place. Make two of these and solder to E1. These are the mounting blocks for the Kadee couplers.
  5. Press out the rivets of E2 and E3, fold and solder together.
  6. Fold E4 and E5 and solder to E2 and E3.
  7. Solder E21 to E3.
  8. Fold E20 and solder to E3. Fold E22 as a support and solder to E3 and E22.
  9. Solder the ends to E1 with a clearance of 0,7mm between the brass floor and the lower edge of the ends. This clearance is for the wood floor.
  10. Press out the rivets of E6 and fold together, solder the parts together.
  11. Solder E8 and E7 to E6.
  12. Solder E6 to E1, again with a clearance of 0,7mm between the brass floor and the lower edge of the sides. Also solder the sides to the ends.
  13. Fold and solder E13 to E1.
  14. Solder E11 and E12 to E6 and E1 with a Ø0,5mm brass rod, going through both sides, in place. File of the brass rod to simulate a bolt when soldered.
  15. Solder E9 and E10 to E6.
  16. Form the side of E23 without rivets to a hook, solder to E2 and E3 making sure they fit to E9 and E10 respectively. This is the hinge for the sides.
  17. Fold and solder E18 to E1.
  18. Cut one E19 and fit to E18 (can also be done after painting).
  19. Press out rivets and fold E24.
  20. Solder E28 to E1. Unfortunately the hole supposed to accommodate E28 in the buffer beam (on E1) has been placed on the wrong side, thus drill a hole at the corresponding location on the other side of the coupler.
  21. Fit E27 in place with a piece of brass rod in the middle hole, short leg pointing downwards.
  22. File a M1 mm nut to a 1,3x1,3mm square while soldered close to the end of a M1 screw. Drill a Ø0,5mm hole through the nut, forming the brake die. This die should be placed about 1-1,5mm above the bottom of the brake staff to simulate a wagon with released brakes. In operation, by turning the brake staff handle clock wise, the die will climb the threads thus setting the brake.
  23. Bend a piece of Ø0,5mm brass rod according to the sketch as a brake handle.
  24. Solder a piece of Ø0,8mm brass rod to the brake handle. Solder to E24, E25 and the nut. Solder to E3. Connect this assembly to E28 with two E26 and Ø0,5mm brass rods and solder in place. Afterwards, adjust rods sticking out to simulate bolts.

ii.Bogie

See ”Exploded view 2”

  1. Drill the axle holes and the bogie fastening hole to Ø1,6mm for C1.
  2. Tap the bogie fastening hole with an M2 tap.
  3. Make sure that the axle taps rolls free in the axle holes.
  4. Solder E29 together.
  5. Screw C1 to E29.
  6. Solder E30 to the 2,5x1,5mm u-profile making an end beam.
  7. Fit the end beam to C1 and solder E33 in place. If you wish to add safety chains, a hole has to be drilled through E33 and the u-profile. The location of this Ø0,5mm hole is between the rivets on the E33.
  8. Solder the end beam to one C1 only, so that the bogie can be disassembled.
  9. Fold and solder E31 to C1 but not to the u-profile.
  10. Screw apart, paint and assemble with the wheelsets in place. Please note that the wheelsets are insulated on one side only.

iii.Painting and lettering

  1. Bogies: matt black
  2. Carbody: brown, for example ”box car red”
  3. Floor: grey (Swedish recipe: “Herdins grå färgbets” diluted with “T-röd”, stain the wood 1-2 times)
  4. Letter according to photo of original.
  5. Weathering

iv.Final assembly

  1. Pre-cut and pre-stain the wood floor. Carefully attach it to the carbody using epoxy glue.
  2. Fasten bogies to carbody with M2 screws, allowing them to move free. Make sure that all insulated wheels are on one side, else the wagon will cause a short cut.
  3. Should you wish to install safety chains, place five links E32 between the bogie and the carbody, although this tends to make the model somewhat delicate to handle.
  4. Attach Kadee couplers with M2 screws.

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