Retrofits Explained
Recommended Management Techniques
The following sections describe stormwater management techniques and practices that are recommended for your property to reduce your water consumption and to divert water from municipal storm drains. Additional information on stormwater and wastewater management can be found at Clean Foundation’s website: clean.ns.ca/infographic/
Redirecting Downspouts and/or Sump Pumps
What are Downspouts and Sump Pumps?
A downspout is a vertical pipe that moves rainwater from a rain gutter on your roof to the ground. It can be an effective means of redirecting rainwater to a suitable location. A sump pump is used to remove water from a collection site. They are regularly used in basements that experience flooding due to excess water build-up around the foundation.
Sometimes downspouts and/or sump pumps are connected to municipal water collection systems. Although this practice removes stormwater effectively, it sends large volumes of stormwater into already strained municipal wastewater systems.
Please note: It can be illegal to direct stormwater into a wastewater system, as it overwhelms municipal systems in storm situations. A variety of problems, including an increase in the volume of pollutants being released into the local environment, as well as basement flooding with municipal wastewater, are the result of an overwhelmed stormwater or wastewater system.
Redirecting a Downspout
Redirecting water from downspouts and sump pumps is one of the most effective methods available to you for preventing water pollution and flooding. Excess stormwater can be properly managed through the careful redirection of downspout outflow. Water should be released to vegetated areas of your property, to water features, or to specifically designed collection areas that allow water to slowly infiltrate the ground, evaporate, or remain in storage for later use.
In most cases, redirecting a downspout is a low-cost procedure that can be completed by the homeowner. Local hardware stores typically carry connections for downspouts, which allow you to redirect the stormwater to a more suitable area.
To avoid directing downspout drainage into the municipal system, your downspout must be disconnected from the underground pipe and refitted with a downspout extension. Please note that it is important to keep any re-directed water away from your home’s foundation – a distance of at least two (2) meters is generally recommended.
It is strongly recommended that you refer to a professional for guidance.
Redirecting a Sump Pump
Redirecting a sump pump can be complicated and may require professional guidance.
If your sump pump is not connected to a municipal system; you should be able to find the discharge pipe leaving your home. If this discharge pipe exists, be sure that the water is being directed to a suitable receiving location on your property.
If your sump pump is connected to a municipal system, it may be considered illegal in your area, and may need to be redirected.
Rain Barrels
What does a rain barrel do?
A rain barrel collects stormwater that drains from a roof. Rain falls onto the surface of the roof, and flows into eavestroughs (gutters) and leaves the roof through downspouts. Rain barrels are simple to install at the end of downspouts, and are suitable for most property sizes. In addition, they require little maintenance and are relatively inexpensive considering the services that they provide.
Why install a rain barrel?
After running off the roof of your house, most rainwater will filter into the ground or flow into a stormwater sewer system. By using a rain barrel, you can collect this valuable resource for later use. Water collected in a rain barrel can be used to water your lawn or garden, wash your car, and, when connected to residential plumbing, can also be used for flushing toilets and washing clothes. Rain barrel water should not be used for drinking and should be used with caution when watering edible plants because it can pose a health risk when not properly treated before consumption.
Location, location, location!
Rain barrels should be installed on strong and level surfaces, as they can weigh over 1000 pounds when full, depending on their size. Barrel location should consider accessibility and where the water will be used. Placement of your rain barrel directly under a downspout makes filling easy. You can also disassemble your current downspout and attach a flexible plastic hose to redirect the water flow into your rain barrel. Overflow water must be diverted away from your foundation to prevent potential flooding. A downspout diverter is an optional accessory that can direct the flow down to the ground and along its natural path, once your barrel is full.
Optional features
Spigots for attaching hoses or filling watering cans / Filters to improve water quality / Connector piping for filling multiple barrels to maximize water collection per rainfall / Overflow spout, installed above any connector pipes to allow for maximum collectionMesh to prevent children and animals from getting into the water, and to prevent mosquitoes and other insects from breeding in the barrel’s standing water / Patio stone, bricks or other solid surface to prevent a full, heavy barrel from sinking into wet ground / Cinder blocks or other elevated surface to allow gravity to increase water pressure
Some barrels feature a drain valve that allows water to slowly drain from the barrel over a period of 24-48 hours. Drain valves permit the barrel to be filled during the next rainfall event, avoiding stagnant water and preventing overflow from frequent rain events
Proper Maintenance
Rain barrels require minimal maintenance, but there are a few practices that will improve the way they function.
1) To reduce clogging, clean eavestroughs and downspouts regularly, or invest in covered eavestroughs, which require less maintenance and prevent moisture-retaining debris from collecting.
2) Use stored water between each rain event to allow for maximum water usage/storage.
3) Disconnect the downspout and drain the rain barrel before winter to prevent ice from forming and cracking the barrel. Barrels should be stored upside down in a shed or sheltered area during winter months to prevent snow and ice damage.
Connecting Rain Barrels in a Series
Typically, a good rain can easily fill more than one rain barrel. Connecting two or more rain barrels is a simple way to increase your capacity to store rainwater.
1) Clear an area large enough to place the second rain barrel beside the first.
2) Make a level platform for the second rain barrel, at an equal or lower height than the first barrel.
3) Connect the overflow from the first rain barrel to the second rain barrel.
4) Direct the overflow of the second rain barrel towards vegetation or down a gentle slope at least 1.8 m (6 ft.) from your foundation. We do not recommend directing overflow to paved surfaces as this may cause cracking and guides runoff towards municipal storm sewers.
Helpful Links
/ How to make and connect rain barrelsPart 1: youtu.be/pzj36Uci_cc
Part 2: youtu.be/xTK48NM0tek
Cisterns
A cistern is a permanent holding tank for water. It is usually large and often located underground. If the water collected in your rain barrel isn’t enough for your needs, a cistern is another option!
Cisterns are often built from concrete or other solid, impermeable materials, giving them long term durability with relatively simple or no maintenance. Cisterns are designed to collect water from hardscapes such as roofs or paved walkways. They can even be used to collect water from French drains, bioswales, and other systems designed to help control flooding and stormwater.
Water collected in a cistern can be used for a variety of purposes such as laundry, flushing toilets, and watering gardens. For uses inside the home, like laundry, it may be necessary to install some level of filtration or treatment, but most basic uses do not require such advanced additions. Check with a specialist or contractor to learn more about your specific needs.
Building a cistern is a large project and, depending on the details, may require the special skills and equipment of a construction contractor. The easiest way to include an underground cistern on your property is to build it during new construction when the lot is being re-graded and the foundation is prepared. Existing properties being retrofitted could take advantage of simpler above-ground cisterns. These may not be as attractive as the hidden underground cisterns but are far less work to complete.
No matter the choice of above or underground, a cistern can still be completed by ambitious Do-It-Yourself enthusiasts. Consultation with experts is always recommended, however, and can help you determine the correct size and type of cistern for your property. In terms of water storage, the cistern has always been king and will remain relevant for sustainable and healthy communities for generations to come.
Helpful Links
/ The Drop on Water: Cisternsnovascotia.ca/nse/water/docs/droponwaterfaq_cisterns.pdf
Eavestrough Enhancements
What Are Eavestrough Enhancements?
Eavestrough enhancements are retrofits done to your eavestroughs that reduce the amount of clogging material accumulating in the troughs, or at least the downspouts. There are many different types, all with their own advantages and disadvantages, installation difficulty, and price range. Before installing your own enhancements, make sure you have a properly sized ladder and someone to hold it steady. If
Types of Eavestrough Enhancements
Downspout Screens
Downspout screens are the easiest enhancements to install. They’re inserted into either the top of your downspout, or in between the downspout bottom and whatever system it dumps into, that prevents solid debris from passing through. When installed at the top, it stops solids washing down from the eavestroughs, making it accumulate and requiring regular cleaning. When installed at the bottom, it allows the water to pass through on its way to wherever you’ve directed it, but separates and disposes the debris to the ground. Downspout screens come in many designs and materials, and can range in price from $2.80 apiece up to $13.
Foam Inserts
Foam inserts are moderately difficult to install as they occupy the whole lengths of the eavestroughs. There are foam inserts available that are specially designed to be put in downspouts that prevent debris from entering, but allow water to pass through them into a gap left along the bottom of the eavestroughs. Some even have coatings that make them resistant to fire, UV degradation, and/or bacterial growth. Foam inserts are considered only moderately difficult to install in your home as there are no fastening parts required. They come in many shapes, sizes, and lengths to match your eavestrough style, with prices varying from about $7.80/m ($2.60/ft.) to $26/m ($8.80/ft.).
Gutter Brushes
Gutter brushes are also moderately difficult to install for the same reasons as the foam inserts. This is an oversized, bristled pipe-cleaner that you put in your eavestroughs that prevents leaves and other large debris from entering. They too come many shapes and sizes to match your eavestroughs. They usually retail from $14/m ($4.50/ft.) to $18/m ($5.90/ft.) depending on what diameter and length you want.
Gutter Guards
Gutter guards are difficult to install as they require many fastenings and can be cumbersome to handle. Gutter guards come in two types: perforated and unperforated.
The perforated type is usually a long sheet of aluminum with small, evenly-spaced holes along its length in a grid pattern. It hooks onto the length of your eavestrough and allows water to pass through the holes. While it does stop leaves, ice, and other debris from falling in, however this debris tends to accumulate, but only need a quick brushing off to remove it. Prices vary from $2/m ($0.66/ft.) to $4.10/m ($1.40/ft.).
Other perforated gutter guards are made using a fine, corrugated mesh to the same effect. This type works much better than the other, handling heavy rainfall just fine and allowing debris to fall off the side. It ranges in price from $6/m ($2/ft.) to $9.60/m ($3.20/ft.).
The unperforated type actually attaches to the edge of the roof overhanging the length of the eavestrough. It leaves a slit between its curved edge and the lip of the trough.
Helpful Links
/ Information on Foam Eavestrough Insertsjoneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/2110-A-rain-gutter-leaf-filter-that-works
/ Information on Many Eavestrough Enhancements
hometips.com/buying-guides/gutter-guards-fine-mesh.html
Rain Gardens
What Is a Rain Garden?
A rain garden is a planted or stone-covered garden bed found in a shallow depression or low-lying area that intercepts the flow path of stormwater. This flow path may be natural or may result from hardscape drainage. Unlike traditional gardens, rain gardens feature a variety of native plant species, as native species are already adapted to local rainfall patterns.
Benefits of Rain Gardens
Rain gardens are specifically designed to receive stormwater. They interrupt water running over the ground, thereby enhancing drainage into the soil and decreasing nutrient and soil runoff.
Tips for Designing Your Rain Garden
Figure 4: A cross-section of a common rain garden design
1) Location
An ideal rain garden location should:
· Be fed by natural runoff from one or more downspouts, or from other hardscapes
· Have sandy or loamy soil, or gravel, with little clay content to ensure proper drainage
· Be as level as possible to minimize stormwater outflow from the garden bed
(the slope should be no greater than 12%)
· Be at least 4m (13 ft.) from buildings or septic beds
· Be far from wells (at least 15 m (50 ft.) from drilled wells, and 30 m (100 ft) from dug wells)