Broiled Salmon with Sorrel Sauce
by Charlie Burke
Sorrel, a hardy perennial, is one of the earliest herbs to emerge in the spring and
in our garden is well on its way before the chives are even seen. It has a sharp,
acidic flavor which matches well with rich fish such as salmon, although it can
also be paired with grilled chicken and other fish such as halibut. Sorrel is rarely
seen in most markets, but local farmers who grow herbs probably have some.
Farmers’ markets are opening this month where it will certainly be available.
Wild salmon is now in the market and is far superior to the farmed Atlantic
salmon available throughout the year. Watch for Copper River salmon which has
a cult following in Seattle. We use local ingredients in nearly all our recipes, but
some things are just too good to miss. They eat our lobsters in the Northwest, so
perhaps we can consider this a fair trade. Fresh landlocked salmon from our
northern New England lakes and wild salmon from our rivers are not available
commercially but would be the best of all. Consider giving Dad a day of fishing
with a knowledgeable New England fishing guide* for Fathers Day and perhaps
he’ll bring home one of these beautiful salmon.
For four:
4 6-8 ounce salmon fillets, skin on and at least 1 inch thick
Butter or olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
3 cups sorrel, stems removed, plus two tablespoons rolled and sliced thinly
crosswise for sprinkling over plated and sauced fillets
2 tablespoons butter
1 shallot finely chopped or 1 ½ tablespoon finely chopped onion
2-3 tablespoons heavy cream
Salt and pepper
Heat butter over medium heat in a non-reactive sauté pan (cooking acidic sorrel
in an aluminum or cast iron pan results in discoloration and gives it a metallic
taste). When butter foams, add shallot and stir for a minute or two until soft. Add
sorrel, stirring. It will melt to look almost like a puree. Add cream and boil until
slightly thickened, add salt and pepper to taste and set aside.
Preheat broiler and set rack about 4 inches from broiler. Place salmon in a
shallow oven-proof pan, dot with butter or lightly coat with olive oil and
sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook for no more than 10 minutes per inch of
thickness. Timing will vary according to the temperature of the fillets and your
broiler; the interior should be slightly red when done. Remove the fillets before
they reach that stage and let sit for a few minutes to continue cooking outside the
oven. This delicious fish loses flavor and becomes dry if cooked to the point
where it is opaque throughout.
Served on warmed plates with a dollop of the sorrel sauce, the chopped sorrel
and your favorite spring vegetables, this salmon makes others pale –literally and
figuratively – in comparison!
*
(New Hampshire)
Outdoor Guide association)