MINI STUFF

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MINI:

Production Number:

Vehicle Identification Number VIN:

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Service Manual

  • Copies are sometimes available on places like Ebay : search for TIS and ETK cd's under MINI and BMW
  • A manual ... no. A CD ... yes.Contact
    Schiff European Automotive Literature Inc.
    881 Dyer Ave., Cranston, RI 02920 USA
    401/946-4711 * 401/946-5785 FAX
    US Toll Free 1-888-789-6882
    mail to:
    It seems everyone wants a "manual" a cheap manual. I've paid more for ones in the past; try getting a set for a 928s Those I have not found, but these are complete offical one the BMW MINI uses.

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Threads for Aftermarket installation ideas:

  • UCC Shift Knob

wtopic&topic=5338&13

  • Skid Plate Installation:
  • Glove Box Organizer:
  • Armrest:
  • Hot Pocket:
  • MCS Cold Air Intake and Shift Knob Installation (Rogue Engineering)

wtopic&topic=4563&6

  • MCS Air Box Modification:
  • New MCS Steering Wheel / Pedals:
  • K&N S Filter:

I did some searching on the K&N web page ( ) and noticed they finally had a part# for the MCS, K&N# 33-2270. I used the K&N store locator and found a shop called Speed Freaks in Cincinnati that sold me the filter for $39.99. It only took one day for it to arrive and the installation was a breeze. I had purchased the BMP kit but I was more impressed with the fit/finish of the stock box and its remote battery post location. Just thought I would pass along the information. I did find the installation was easier by removing the intercooler shield first.

  • Pics of H-K Audio:
  • Whalen Shift Knob:
  • Shipping Schedule out of Southampton:
  • Locating Your Ship:
  • Changing Oil:

Torque of drain plug : 31 Nm (22 lb-ft) and Torque of filter can : 25 Nm (18 lb-ft)

  • Washing your MINI:
  • Batteries:
  • Tail/Brake Light Mod:

wtopic&topic=2109&start=25

Also, a Bridger pdf.file.

  • Supercharger Pulley Mod:

wtopic&topic=5299&forum=11&5

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Braking Features

The MINI has disc brakes all round, ventilated at the front. The front disc brakes measure 276x22mm, while those at the rear are 259x10mm. The braking system, with a diagonal dual-circuit arrangement, includes four-sensor ABS plus EBD and CBC as standard.
ABS or Anti-lock Braking System helps you maintain control and direction of the vehicle during an extreme braking maneuver.
EBD or Electronic Brakeforce Distribution controls the distribution of the hydraulic braking force between the front and rear wheels, ensuring the optimum braking power distribution between axles at all times and under different load conditions. If the car's rear axle is under heavy loading, a higher braking force than normal can be safely applied to the rear wheels, greatly improving the vehicle's braking abilities. The EBD mechanism is automatically activated under average braking pressure, long before the ABS would be required.
CBC or Cornering Brake Control tempers the natural tendency for a car to become unstable at the rear if the brakes are applied heavily while cornering. The system recognizes that the car is cornering and feeds more braking force to the outside front wheel and counteracts potential oversteer. This also means that more braking force can be fed to the rear brakes and the car is slowed down as fast as possible with maximum stability.
Two systems which provide stability and traction control are also offered for the MINI. Either of these systems, if fitted, can be deactivated by a toggle switch.
ASC+T or Automatic Stability Control plus Traction effectively prevents front wheel spin and guarantees stability. This smart electronic system uses the ABS sensors to detect any wheel slippage. When the system does so it automatically cuts power to the spinning wheel until it grips again.
It also works under deceleration on a slippery surface, if a wheel approaches lock-up due to engine braking. In this instance power is gently fed to that wheel to get it rolling again and so control is regained. A warning light comes on when the system is activated.
DSC or Dynamic Stability Control is an expansion of ABS and ASC+T. DSC monitors lateral and longitudinal forces on the car as well as throttle and steering inputs from the driver and any wheel slippage. Thus it determines the intended trajectory of the car and compares it to its actual course. If necessary, it can adjust the dynamic attitude of the car by applying braking forces to individual wheels and controlling throttle inputs.
If it detects oversteer, DSC applies the brake to the outer front wheel. If the driver is already braking, the computer increases the braking pressure on this wheel and reduces the pressure on the inside wheels. In the case of understeer, DSC applies braking force to the rear wheel on the inside of the bend. If the driver has already started braking, the braking pressure on the wheel on the inside of the curve is increased, whilst the pressure on the outer wheels is reduced.

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Warranty on AM Parts

If you are in the USA, legally, a vehicle manufacturer cannot void the warranty on a vehicle due to an aftermarket part unless they can prove that the aftermarket part caused or contributed to the failure in the vehicle (per the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act (15 U.S.C. 2302(C)). A good explanation of your warranty rights in the US can be found at

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2003 MINI Cooper Wheel & Tire Specs

  • Style R84 (V-spoke) (aka X-lite) 6.5Jx16 - 1512350 & 1512351 = 8.0Kg Offset = 50mm (Cooper S w/ all season runflat tires)
  • Style R85 (S-lite) 7x17J - 1512352 & 6757859 = 11.4Kg Offset = 50mm (Cooper S w/ performance runflat tires or all season runflat tires)
  • I'm convinced it's one of the following combinations (lot's of "tireless" research, considering the performance, ride quality, and multiple weather conditions combination that's important to 90% of us guys/gals):
    RSpeed: Rota Circuit 8 16x7 w/ Toyo T1S Proxes 205/50-16
    TireRack: Kosei K1 Racing 16x7.5 w/ Yokohama AVS ES100 205/50-16 or Bridgestone Potenza RE 730 Gen.
  • I've looked into a bunch of wheels/tire combos. After talking to a bunch of people and getting input from the boards and doing a bunch of research on what the miata folks are doing...I am going to most likely get Volk TE37s in white at 16"x7" with Toyo T1S Proxes 205/45-16 or 215/40-16. Only problem here is cost...the volks aren't cheap.
  • What's the weight of the rims you've listed? Go to Awesome resource
  • Optimal Combination: 16x7 w/ 205/50-16's will suit the MAJORITY of MINI owners
  • TIRE RACK 17” Tire Sizes:

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Fixing Runflat Tires

Assuming that no damage has occurred to the sidewall in getting to a repair shop, the same criteria apply to repairing a run flat tire as apply to a conventional tire.
Any puncture or injury to a tire's tread area obviously affects performance and safety. Proper repair is critical. The puncture must be repaired on both the inside and the outside of the tire. Since all parts of a tire are engineered to function as a single unit, any repair must take that into consideration. Only small straight through 3/16" diameter or less punctures in the tread area may be repairable, if no secondary damage has occurred.

Note:
If the puncture is close to the crown edge, say within 1/2", you may want to purchase a replacement tire. The reason is high speed (H or above) rated tires use what is known as a "crown edge breaker, or wedge", or "nylon breaker strip" to further strengthen the belt package and cap overlays during hard cornering forces. A puncture can rupture or damage this construction, making the tire unsafe even if repaired.

A tire repair can be properly made only if the tire is removed from the rim; a thorough internal inspection is carried out; and the repair is made from the inside out. A repair must fill and seal the injury, i.e. vulcanized plug and patch. A very excellent patch is offered by many tire repair material companies know as the "uni-patch" which looks like a mushroom.
The inner liner patch has a stalk or stem coming from it with a metal tip on the end used for pulling it through the injury, or the "needle and thread" method which is shown in the picture above. The inner liner is buffed to a rough texture to improve adhesion. The glue is applied and then the stem inserted into the injury from the inside of the tire, and pulled through the hole by the metal tip on the stem. The patch then seats onto the inner liner. The tip is trimmed off flush with the tread surface.
Precautions should be taken in changing run flat tires

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I switched from the 17" S-Lites w/ Pirelli's to 16x7 Rota Circuit 8's w/ 205/50-16 Toyo T1S Proxes (thanks again to Peter @ R-Speed). I may have never known the difference either, but it's reality guys - major difference in ride quality! You give up a little handling sharpness, but make up for it in grip. No more "tramlining", no more sliding, better wet grip, and the ride is still plenty stiff, without the rough edge. Don't knock it 'til you've tried it.
By the way, the low pressure warning works regardless of tire type and with MINI Assistance and AAA, I'm taking my chances on a flat (OK, just jinxed myself). I'll throw in a can of Fix-A-Flat for long trips.

6-Speed Manual Transmission

Below are maximum speeds in gear calculated for 17" wheels---ADD about 0.6MPH [1.0KPH] for 16" wheels.
Gear______RPM______MPH

1...... 6750...... 42.6
2...... 6750...... 67.9
3...... 6750...... 90.3
4...... 6750...... 110.5
5...... 6750...... 133.1
6...... (5500)...... (135)

((RPM/Gear Ratio) * Wheel Circumference In Feet)*(Minutes Per Hour / Feet Per Mile)

The MINI Cooper S uses a three-shaft Getrag transmission verses a two shaft conventional transmission. This transmission has two output shafts geared to the differential. The gears on the input shaft from the engine drive the output shafts and the differential through different final drive gears. So there is a 2.75:1 final drive for 1st, 2nd, 5th and 6th gear on one shaft and a 4.05 final drive for 3rd, 4th and Reverse on the other output shaft. (Imagine the differential gear, with two separate gears on opposite sides.) So depending on the gear you have selected, the final drive ratio varies (either 2.74 or 4.05) The MCS, the Getrag 285. It's an ultra-short transmission, only 322 mm long, including the 100 mm space the clutch need. The problem for this gearbox won't be the hp, but it is limited by torque figures. It can only have a max. torque of 225 Nm (for now, but Getrag is planning to make it stronger in the future). So there's not a lot of space for that with the 210 Nm figure of the MINI Cooper S.

Checklist for Dealer Pick-Up:

Questions to ask before delivery

  • Please do not drill the front bumper for a license plate
  • Are there any dealer stickers, plate frames, etc that you apply? Please don't.
  • Request dealer programmed options to be taken care of before delivery. (see bottom)
  • Can I get a tour of the service area and meet the service manager on delivery?
  • Are there weekend service hours?

Questions to ask at delivery:

  • Has the cold start software update been applied? (aka CD31)
  • Was there any damage repaired that was incurred during shipping?

Walk Around:

Standard

  • Make sure received an owner's manual
  • Make sure received extra keys.
  • Check the odometer on the car.
  • Check all fluid levels that are accessible. (know these before pickup)
  • Oil
  • Transmission fluid
  • Steering
  • Windshield washer fluid
  • Coolant (level and color)
  • If there's a clear sticker on the MINI logo under the hood, remove it
  • Check the paint (+wheels) for blemishes.
  • Check the interior (dash, seats, etc) for blemishes.
  • Check tire pressure and condition.
  • Check for all ordered options
  • Check for all requested dealer programmed options
  • Check that all lights are operational
  • Headlights -- Aimed properly
  • Interior
  • Brake
  • Directionals
  • Fog

Common issues:

  • Check for leaking coolant tank. Check tank seams and coolant color.
  • Check the windshield seals and condition
  • Check for any condensation in the tail lights
  • Check for proper boot latch operation (manual and remote)
  • Check that the windows drop when the door is opened

Test Drive

Standard

  • Check for smooth transmission operation. (clutch, shifting)
  • Check brakes
  • Find a bumpy road and check for squeaks, rattles and any other strange noises

Common issues:

  • Check for surging under heavy accelertion (2,000-4,000 RPM).
  • Check for left hand pull
  • Check for steering column noise ( clicks and/or pops on rotation of wheel).

List of possible dealer programmable options: (check with dealer for details):

  • Signal an acknowledgement when locking or unlocking your vehicle
  • Automatic door licking after start off.
  • Automatic door unlocking with parking brake application
  • Selective central locking. (drivers door on first click, whole car on second)
  • Automatic open and close sunroof
  • Open and lcose sunroof and windows via remote.
  • Speed dependant windshield wipers
  • Automatic wipers on cleaning
  • Low beams stay on for 40 seconds after engine is shut off (follow me home lights).
  • Locking when engine is running (with second key)
  • Daytime running lights
  • Interior lights via remote.
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* Check on tie rod nuts and tires for proper torque

* Check that wheels are torqued to 100.

* Check all reservoirs, cable connections tightened.

* Check for plastic (?) spacers that should be removed from springs.

* Check to ensure hatch and boot are secured and can be opened.

* Check for CD upgrades for alarm, throttle, cold start, remote, and other issues that others have stated.

* Ensure that your MC(S) is programmed to reflect desires, e.g., daytime running lights, alarm, locks, etc.

* Check on weather stripping on doors, windows, sunroof...e.g., does everything close securely? Is there wind noise?

* Body control module tightened down?

* MINI manual and touch-up paint?

* Have dealer install Kleen Wheels to decrease/eliminate brake dust.

* Loose battery cables?
* Coolant Bottle/replace bottle leaking coolant.

* Radio am reception is pretty bad/no fix at this time

* DSC/Run Flat Light on/recode LEW and recalibrate steering angle sensor

* Eml light on/replace engine wiring harness and eml throttle body.
* Water in tail lamp lenses/replace both lenses

* Sunroof rattle/install velcro on cassette flap panels and along the front cassette frame member.

* Airbag light on/seat belt latches, seat air bag modules{resistance values are to high necessitate replacement

* Tail gate latch creek/replace, adjust and lubricate

What does R53W11 mean, anyway?

Well, R53 is BMW's internal code for the MINI Cooper S body style.W11 is the internal code for the Cooper S engine.

MINI Status Codes

37Order is at BMW NA (On Order)

87Production Week Assigned

97Order Sent at Factory

111Order Accepted at Factory

112 Order Scheduled for Production

150Production Started (Scheduled for Production)

151Body Shop Started

152Paint Shop Started

153Assembly Started

155Production Completed

160Released to Distribution

182Released to Carrier (Awaiting Transportation)

193Arrived at Port of Exit (Received at Terminal)

194Selected for Shipment (Loaded on Vessel)

195Shipped from Port of Exit (En Route)

196 Shipment Arrival (Discharged)

FAQ: What do I need to know about MINI engine oil?

For those who like to change their own oil, some possible good news. Purolator does have a filter in production. The number to look for is L15465. The catch is that many vendors and distributors have not yet decided to stock it. Purolator is quick to point out that they only manufacture and do not market, so it could take a while to show up.

All MINIs leave the factory with 100% synthetic 5W-30 motor oil, and this oil is recommended by MINI both for topping off and for all oil changes. 5W-30 is excellent "all-climate" oil. Other weights should be used only upon specific manufacturer recommendation, and then only in extreme conditions, such as when racing in Death Valley.
MINI specifically recommends Castrol 100% synthetic 5W-30 motor oil. Castrol produces the engine oil used by the factory and all BMW branded oil. In North America, this oil is known by the trade name Syntec. Do not buy Syntec Blend, since it is not the same.
MINI also recommends Mobil 1 synthetic 5W-30 motor oil. In some countries Mobil 1 may be available in a synthetic blend version and, again, the blend is not the same.
BMW recommends Valvoline SynPower Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-30 for most of its vehicles.
Other brands of 100% synthetic 5W-30 are perfectly acceptable so long as they meet or exceed the engine oil specifications that the Castrol, Mobil 1, and Valvoline oils meet. Examples include:

  • Motorcraft (Ford) Full Synthetic 5W-30
  • Havoline Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-30
  • Amsoil Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-30
  • Chevron Supreme 100% Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil
  • Kendall SHP Synthetic Motor Oil
  • Pennzoil Performax 100 Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-30
  • Exxon Superflo Synthetic 5W-30
  • Phillips 66 TropArtic 100% Synthetic 5W-30
  • Quaker State Ultra Premium Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-30

Certain stores (Tesco, Sears) may have their own branded products.
Synthetic oils are not derived from natural petroleum stock, so they can be more readily engineered with a wider variety of helpful physical properties. They are also more expensive, often at least double the price of their petroleum counterparts.
Opinions vary on how much better synthetics perform. While you certainly won't destroy your MINI's engine with a conventional petroleum motor oil, you might have more engine wear, particularly under extreme driving conditions or with long intervals between oil changes. Also, your MINI's onboard service interval computer assumes use of the recommended synthetic motor oil. But if you cannot find 100% synthetic away from home, and your engine oil level is too low, certainly it is far better in a pinch to add regular oil (or a synthetic blend) than to run with too little oil.
Use of a synthetic oil does not forever preclude use of a petroleum product, and vice versa. Oils can be mixed, with the resulting performance roughly proportional to their percentages.
In most cases prolonged idling is not recommended to "warm the oil," although moderate speeds and gentle acceleration can help your engine after starting up in cold weather. Consult your owner's manual for guidance.
Many owners report higher oil consumption during the initial running in period. This consumption is normal, within reason. Check all fluid levels, especially engine oil, even more frequently than usual during this running in period after you receive your new MINI.
MINI does not list an initial low mileage oil change. Some owners believe that an initial oil change at 1000 miles or so is a wise precaution, as is the practice with piston aircraft engines, on the theory that new engines go through a period of initial high wear, and it is important to get rid of metal and other oil contaminants at an early interval. Others consider this practice a waste of money.
Similarly, MINI's service interval computer recommends relatively "long" intervals between oil changes of approximately 10,000 to 12,000 miles (or 2 years), whichever comes first. The exact mileage interval will vary depending on driving habits. Oil change shops typically recommend a 3,000 mile interval. Most owners agree that a 3,000 mile interval is excessive and a waste of money for modern automobiles, but opinions differ on the value of oil changes more frequent than manufacturer recommendations. Many owners opt for one additional oil change halfway between each change specified by the onboard service computer. In any event, "extra" oil changes will not be covered under the MINI initial maintenance plan, such as the TLC program. Regardless of the oil change interval you choose, be sure to check the oil level regularly and top off if necessary. Excessive oil consumption should be brought to your service technician's attention.
MINI does not recommend any special oil additives beyond those already present in the recommended motor oils. Most owners consider such additives a waste of money.