> I had the rad out of my 88 FC and thought this would be the ideal
> > time to replace the rad hoses as well as most of the exposed heater
> > hoses. I am also in the process of rebuilding the Sporlan valves. 2
> > are done and reinstalled. Most of what follows applies to the
> Silver
> > Edition but much might be usefull for any FC and maybe the SP's. BB
> > in their infinite wisdom installed my Sporlan's where only "Plastic
> > Man" could access them. I have only found 3 but I think there is
> > another puppy somewhere. One is behind the front bumper in front
> of
> > the battery box and above the air cleaner. Another is behind the
> rear
> > bumper RH side. The worst one is in the LF wheel well, wire tied to
> a
> > kazillion wires. Removing the wheel would make it easier to work on
> > but I do not feel comfortable being under the beast with no tire
> for
> > support. Paranoia??
> > First off you will not believe how many hose clamps are required
> for
> > this job. I bought 30 size 20, 10 size 32 and 10 size 36. I doubt
> > there will be many left over. The 87 and up 3208's have a lot of
> > extra pipes and hoses for the turbo. The hose clamps I used are
> > Breeze brand and they are the style that are smooth on the inside.
> > They do not cut into the hoses. Recommended for silicone hose as
> > well. I ordered clamps and silicone hoses from
> > They have a great web site and online
> > ordering was very easy. Prices are better than NAPA and everything
> > was in stock. FleetPride is also a good source for parts.
> > To do this job easily ( is anything easy on a Bird?) requires some
> > decent tools, not your usual Harbor Freight junk. You need: a good
> > fine tooth 1/4 drive ratchet. A 5/16 deep socket and a bunch of
> > extensions will help. An Olfa knife ( box cutter to you Yankees and
> > Southerners) is agood idea. If you have a good creeper with a
> > headrest use it. I was on an Arkie creeper ( old cardboard sheet)
> and
> > it is hard on the neck. The Sporlans are all right under the floor
> > and even with the air dumped it is a long way up. I should have
> power
> > washed those areas first. I am wondering if there is any protein
> > value in road dirt. A can of PB blaster is required if your Bird
> has
> > been in the East or anywhere there is salt. I used Dayco HD
> insuline
> > heater hose but any GOOD quality such as GoodYear or Gates will do.
> > Some stores have hose that is not HD, be cautious. I paid $1.99 a
> > foot. You will also need: wire ties ( buy good ones, again no
> harbor
> > freight cr-p)and some split wire loom to use as protection for the
> > hoses. I also used some foam pipe insulation for that purpose. You
> > will also need some HD 1/2 inch wire ties to tie up some of the
> hoses
> > and wiring. That is what BB used. The Spoprlans do not use any
> > electrical connectors. They are crimped and sealed with heat
> shrink.
> > I soldered mine. This is not a fun job but I went slowly. I am not
> on
> > flat rate! Installing the heater hose to those copper u bends that
> BB
> > used can be difficult. This is 1 inch hose. I softened the hoses
> by
> > putting the ends in boiling water. I would hate to have to do any
> of
> > this while on the road. Or worse yet pay many hundreds ( or
> thousand)
> > to have it done. One of my Sporlans was fill of crud. The other one
> > looked OK. Once removed they are very simple to work on. I bought
> > those parts from Steven Birtles. Any questions? Ask away.
> > Bruce
> > 1988 FC35