Started in Cleaverville WA, 1 October 2017
Losing our bearing
Dear friends and family,
Well that has been an interesting period: good - bad - good; for those of a nervous disposition I will let you know that it all ends well.
As most of you know Cath is not good with the heat. The fact that she has survived this long north of the Tropic as the summer approaches is remarkable. Therefore, it was essential that we visit Marble Bar in the Pilbara region of Western Australia. This is the hottest town in Australia and is in the Guinness Book of Records for the 1923/24 season when it recorded 116 days over 100F (37.78 C). We discussed whether it was worth taking the attached photo as it was only just over 38 C, balmy by local standards though it was yet to reach the hottest part of the day.
East of Marble Bar, heading back towards the centre of the continent there is a sign that says “no fuel beyond this point” not “no fuel for xxx km” just “no fuel”. Eighty km further is the turn off to the Meentheena Veterans Retreat campsite. We had heard good reports from other travellers and it had reasonable write ups in on the forums so we thought we would give it a try for a night on our way looping around to Newman via Nulliginie, Carawine Pool and Gorge, Running Waters and Skull Springs. Like most before us we ended up having to prise ourselves out of the campsite days later.
We had a beautiful campsite under paperbark trees by the side of the Nulliginie river. Here we lounged for days, swimming in the river and the waterholes scattered through the area, using the (free) kayaks, reading and just chilling out. The retreat is operated by a volunteer association with the aim of providing a peaceful environment for (primarily) ex-military or emergency service personnel who want to get away from it all. Although a ‘veterans retreat’ it is open to all and has a welcoming and relaxing vibe.
Eventually we did get away which is when the excitement started. About 120 km down the road, some 400 km from the nearest big town (Port Hedland), 200 km from Marble Bar and about 140 km from the nearest dot on the map (Nulliginie), we went up a track to the Running Waters swim hole. Whenever we stop I get out and ‘count the wheels’ as Cath calls it. Usually there are six wheels, this time I counted 5½. A trailer bearing was missing and the hub was sitting on the axle which is usually considered a bad thing. It probably failed on the rough track in. We had a spare bearing kit, so a painful but not impossible repair job. Some 5 hours later I figured the repaired bearings were not going all the way onto the damaged axle.
We managed to bodgie it enough to get back to the intersection with the bitumen. We left the trailer by the side of the road and drove the 100 km back to the Veterans Retreat. Next day (Saturday) arranged for recovery – an 800 km round trip from Port Hedland. We returned to Port Hedland where we had already spent 2 days – quite enough to see most of this iron ore port town with the world’s heaviest rail lines run by three separate mine railway companies – each with their own lines and engines dragging 35,000 tonne trains! The repairs required: new hubs complete with brakes, new axle and repairs to the suspension as we found cracks in the welds. Of course this took longer and cost more than expected – oh well. All fixed and on the road, 150 km down said road the dust cover had come off and the bearing was running hot. Left trailer by side of road and drove back till we got mobile phone reception. Recovery (at our expense this time as we had used up our roadside assistance allowance) plus accommodation.
Repairer took it apart and could find no obvious fault, perhaps a brake adjustment or proud spot on the brake shoe? Put it back together and triple checked everything. About 200 km further on we did get the brakes adjusted at Karratha as they settled in. During our extended stay in Port Hedland the primary battery failed and while it was being replaced they checked the system and noted the alternator was on the way out. Not really surprising after 19 years and 350,000 km. Add to that a broken UHF/CB antenna and a replacement tyre for the one where the bead was damaged,an expensive and moderately stressful couple of weeks but no one died and we found the problems before they caused serious damage.
We stayed at the Cleaverville bush camp which, despite its name, is not in the USA. It is halfway between Roebourne and Karratha in northern WA. We adjusted our plans as it was school holidays and the national parks we next want to visit are likely to be packed. Where we were at Cleaverville, was not crowded, very pleasant and as of the start of Oct, free. Each day we went swimming in the Indian Ocean, sometimes twice and took day trips into the local towns and attractions. It was so good to get back into our little home. Eventually the midgies (sandflys) got the better of us and we moved into Karratha for a night to restock and sort out a few things before heading south to national parks.
Talking of our little home, some have asked about our MODOM (mobile domicile). How do we live in a camper trailer? When folded up the trailer is the size of large single axle box trailer, smaller than most work trailers. When unpacked in the basic configuration the ‘bedroom’ is a queen size inner-spring mattress with plenty of head room mounted on top of the trailer body. Also in the tent is a 2 x 3 m fully enclosed living area with windows on all sides, some with weather/privacy screens on the outside that can be set up like little awnings. The tent has an inbuilt ‘ecoshade’ which provides protection from heat and rain. We can have this set up in under 10 minutes.
The full set up includes the large awning which provides an additional 11.25 square meter outdoor living space. When needed we can put up tarps to act as wind, rain or sun shades. One step beyond the awning is the patio which is the size of Australia.
The kitchen folds out from the rear of the trailer and we have our trusty old gas cooker. There are also drawers for the ready-use items. If she wants, Cath can use the camp-oven to roast or bake. We have two fridges in the car plus cool bags, enough to keep food and beer cold. Cath also vacuum packs the meat before putting it in the fridge. The tea and coffee making gear is kept separate with its own little butane burner in the back of the car so we can ‘brew up’ at a moment’s notice.
The trailer has a 60 litre water tank with a pump in the kitchen area and we carry 40+ litres in the car. The trailer has about 5.5 cubic meters of storage space which is accessible from outside or inside the tent. We have our clothing, dry goods and cooking gear in boxes for ease of access and to keep out some of the dust. Of course there is also the storage in and on the Land Cruiser.
For washing, if showers are not available, we have a water bladder on the roof of the car, which is heated by the sun, as well as our other water and a bucket. We normally choose camps with toilets but if necessary we have a shovel – mainly used to tend the camp fires. For clothes washing we have a rotating camp washer big enough to do even the sheets. Totally self-sufficient for many weeks - if need be.
We don’t even notice the set up anymore, possibly no more than we noticed the little day to day jobs we did when we got back to our house at the end of the day. We love our little MODOM and certainly enjoy the changing views and people more than days in the motel room at Pt Hedland. If you have any questions on how we survive please ask.
We have settled into this travelling life and are enjoying the ever changing scenery, the places we visit and learn about and the people that we meet. You know you have been outback for a while when you are excited by a town that has not only a Target but also a KMart. The good food, exercise including walking and swimming (and changing tyres) and outdoor life is keeping us trim, healthy and fit. We miss our friends and family but with phone reception available in most places (except 200 km east of Marble Bar) we are able to stay in contact. Most nights there is ‘another bloody sunset’; some over the desert, some dropping over the ocean’s edge and some highlighting amazing rock formations or stunning pastoral scenes. Each day brings: new sights and new knowledge, different swimming holes, new roads and expectations of towns which are met, exceeded or disappointed; incredible scenery which changes by region; and interesting people/characters; the birds, plants and critters; the beauty of a single desert rose set against a dark red termite mound; and, of course, the stars. The main thing is the freedom to go, and by which way, or to stay. Yep, it is worth the occasional problem.
I could say “all our problems are behind us” but that is where the trailer is. Rather, I will say we are on our way to see new national parks and other interesting places.
Don & Cath