Subwoofer Enclosure for 1997-2004 Corvette Coupe

Directions and Plans

9/7/04

Warnings and Advisements

Safety Warning: This project requires the use of cutting tools, which are inherently dangerous. Use all necessary safety precautions.

Dimension Advisement: The dimensions reflected in these plans worked for a 2002 Corvette Coupe. It is assumed that they will work for other model year coupes.

Skill Advisement: For a woodworking project, this is relatively easy. However, attention to detail in measuring and cutting are critical. The directions assume that you know how to, for example, cut dimensionally accurate pieces of wood without further guidance. Note that there is one piece which will be tricky to cut, and may require advanced tools or skills.

Blanket Liability Advisement: The author accepts no liability for the use or misuse of these plans, including but not limited to injury to self or others, damage to vehicle, or property damage.

Description

These plans are to build a sealed subwoofer enclosure for a Corvette Coupe, years 1997-2004 (C5). The rear hatch area of these cars has a large, central storage area. This subwoofer enclosure will fit entirely within this area, with the top surface approximately even with the lower edge of the carpet surround, and the woofer firing straight upward. The internal volume of the box is approximately 0.76 square feet.

Tools and Equipment Required:

· Power tools: portable power saw, portable jigsaw, power drill

· Table saw (nice to have)

· Sawhorses

· Cutting guide

· Clamps, including long pipe clamps

· T-square, measuring tape, pencil

Materials

· One 4X8 piece of ¾” MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard)

· Professional-style wood glue

· Liquid Nails adhesive

· Silicone caulk

· 1 ¼” drywall screws (optional)

· 12” or 10” subwoofer

· Subwoofer electrical connector insert (Radio Shack or other)

Anticipated Time to Construct

· Time to construct is largely dependent on skill level and tool availability.

· The instructions as written will require overnight drying of glue. Also, availability of long clamps may affect the ability to do several steps at once.

· All that being said, assume about 2-3 hours across a several days, including setup time.

Directions

Note: All directions refer to the drawing on the last page of these plans.

1. Cut a 21” wide piece of MDF of sufficient length to construct all of the main body pieces of the enclosure. You will see from the drawing that the pieces together add up to just under 48”– if you are careful you can cut your 4X8 piece the “wide” way and save a larger piece of MDF for something else.

2. Cut the Bottom (1) and Back (2) pieces from your 21” wide piece, cut in step 1, above. These are straight cuts, as shown on the diagram.

3. Cut the Short (3) piece. This piece has a 45 degree angle on one long edge. Note that the short side will be one inch in length.

4. Cut the top (4) piece. This piece also has a 45 degree angle on one long edge.

5. Cut out a hole in the Bottom (1) piece for your electrical connector. Use the dimension guide that came with the connector to mark and cut this opening. Note that the location of this opening will have the speaker wires emerge into the small well at the very bottom of the storage area.

6. Cut the circular hole for your subwoofer from the Top (4) piece. Use your subwoofer itself or its published dimensions as a guide. The opening should be toward the back of the car, away from the 45 degree angle side of the Top piece. However, make sure the edge of the opening is at least 1 ½” away from the bottom of the piece.

7. Glue and clamp together pieces 1, 2, 3 and 4, using wood glue. Screws are not necessary if you have clamps and patience. Note that MDF does not take screws particularly well – they are easy to strip out, so if you use screws, drill pilot holes.

8. Wait for this assemblage to dry – overnight.

9. The Angle (5) piece is not easy to cut and place – it “features” two non-standard angles, one of them oblique. One method: Place a piece of your MDF that is slightly longer than needed on top of the assembled pieces, then use a pencil to mark the angles directly on the board. “Eyeball match” the angles on your circular or table saw. Note that the oblique angle cannot be cut with a standard circular saw and must be cut with a table saw.

10. Glue the Angle (5) piece into place using Liquid Nails. Liquid Nails is used here (instead of wood glue) to fill the gaps left by any but the most skilled woodworker. Also, it does not require clamping to adhere effectively, and can be “press fit” into place.

11. Let dry overnight – Liquid Nails remains flexible for several hours so you must let it dry completely.

12. Use the “stencil method” to mark and cut the end pieces. Place the (now dry) assemblage on top of a piece of MDF, then reach inside with a pencil to draw the shape onto the MDF. Use a jigsaw to cut. Draw and cut each piece separately (left side, right side) before assembling.

13. Hand fit end pieces into ends of assemblage, dry. Use sandpaper to get a snug fit.

14. Glue end pieces using Liquid Nails, which will fill gaps. Push end pieces into place. Note that for a more attractive (and easier to grip) sub enclosure, push the end pieces inward about ¼” past flush, for a nice inlaid edge around the perimeter of the enclosure. Clean off excess adhesive.

15. Let dry overnight.

16. Using Silicon caulk, completely seal the inner and/or outer edges as necessary. Seals that were assembled with Liquid Nails may not need this, but use your best judgement. Let caulk dry overnight before installing subwoofer, as fumes might affect the subwoofer materials.

17. The enclosure is now complete. Sand rough edges which might catch on carpet. It is recommended to round off the bottom four corners of the Bottom (1) piece so that they do not tear holes in the carpet of the storage area.

18. All finishing work (installing speaker, wiring, carpet, etc.) is up to you.