(Updated 20/06/2018)
BACKGROUND
Pool Solutions offers a tough pool epoxy primer with a gloss protective topcoat epoxy in various colours. Epoxy coatings are easy to maintain and offer long-lasting protection against algae and staining when applied on marble plaster, fibreglass, cement-plaster or concrete surfaces. The product is engineered to specifically offer qualities like acid and chlorine resistance when using HTH products and normal pool acid in recommended dosages. (Please see the notes on after-care (page 7)and take note of some of the products that have reportedly caused staining of the epoxy coat.) Our guarantee requirements are indicated on the last two pages.
______
IMPORTANT
Maintaining the correct PH, alkalinity and Total Hardness levels will ensure longer lifespan of the product. Please have your swimming pool water tested after filling the swimming pool. Testespecificallyfor CALSIUM HARDNESS or Total Hardness as well as Alkalinity. Low Hardness below 300ppmand Alkalinity below 100ppm may cause more excessive chalking of the epoxy layer and reduce the lifespan. Low calcium levels may have been the culprit causing pitting and deterioration of your existing swimming pool surface. Ensure Calcium Hardness is between 350-500 ppmandAlkalinity 100-150ppm. Keep pH between 17.2 – 7.6 for best results.
For guarantee purposes please refer to pages 7,9 and 10 of this document.______
* Note for fibreglass surfaces:
Fibreglass pool linings can be coated with this product. For fibreglass pools ignore the notes applicable to the cleaning and repair of the mosaic tiles and the grinding of marble plaster. Fibreglass surfaces should be solid, crack-free and should not have formed bubbles etc.Start with the application of the Primer coat after thoroughly scourging the fibreglass surface by hand with P60 grit sand paper and following the rest of this installation manual.
______
Online help videos are available at :
NB: NEVER DILUTE THE SUPPLIED PRODUCT WITH WATER, SOLVENTS OR PAINT THINNERS
(Any thinning will compromise the quality and mix ratio of the product with unpredictable results)
SHORT OVERVIEW (please study the rest of this document thoroughly)
There are two possible ways of application that can be followed:
Long method (4-5 days)
If you are working alone or have limited help available with a relatively large swimming pool, follow the safer route with our normal 4-5 day process.
Day 1:Used for the preparation of the pool surface and is done with 230mm grinders and flexible P16 fibre discs mounted on a rubber backing disc to grind the surface to a clean, solid finish and removing all chemicals and algae from the substrate. If cracks or pitted areasare to be repaired, this may extend the process into a following day. Optionally a PCT56 water barrier can be applied if high water tables are suspected around swimming pool.
Day2:A saturating primer coat is applied. While this primer coat is still damp, after +/-30-60min, a first top-coat is applied to bond or “fuse” with the sticky primer. (allow2 hours during lower, winter temperatures below 18ºC)
Day 3:Sand the hardened, glossyepoxy coat to create a strong inter-layer bond and apply a second top-coat.Leave to dry overnight. Sanding of any dried, glossy layer is very important.
Day 4:Sand the glossy second top-coatthoroughly again and apply the final top coat. (4-5days in total), 4-layersapplied. (Note, In winter time below 15ºC, allow a day in between top coat applications).
Please Note: Sometimes, experienced applicators can apply thicker layers evenly at a time and might be able to use all the Topcoat product provided in only two topcoat layer applications. As long as most of the Topcoat product provided for your size swimming pool have been used, the total, dried coating thickness will be within specifications to ensure a long lifespan (0.6mm-0.8mm).
Quick method (2-3 days)
In summer times, if you are confident that you can manage the whole process on one day with no possibility for rain, you may consider the quicker method.Visit for more detail regarding the quicker method. Note:Follow the longer method during colder temperatures below 20ºC). For a better smooth finish and/or less risk of teardrops running in the wet paint, follow the longer method.
Day 1: Follow the exact same steps as indicated under point 1 under the longer method.
Day 2: Follow the steps as indicated under Day 2 of the longer method above.
Wait approximately 60-90 minutes after application of the first top-coat layer. While the fist epoxy layers are still damp/tacky (60-90 min. test with touching), apply a second Top-coat layer (3rd epoxy layer) using Mowhairor other short-pile rollers marked for enamel paints, fitted to extension or telescopic extension poles. Walk around the pool to apply the epoxy paint without entering into the swimming pool.Alternatively, you can perform this task by entering the pool on spiked paint shoes.After 60-90 minutes after application of the second top-coat layer (3rd epoxy layer) while the epoxy is still damp/tacky, apply the last and 4th epoxy top-coat layer using the extension poles or spiked shoes as indicated. While applying each coat with rollers, another helper should use a paint brush to paint along the bottom line of the mosaic tiles and around other mosaic patterns etc. You will need to enter the pool the next day on bare feet and inspect/feel the surface to remove any sharp points with a blade and/or sanding paper.
______
DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS FOR LONGER METHOD
______
INSPECTION OF THE POOL SURFACE
The epoxy coat is targeted as a gloss, enamel decorative layer to restore the appearance of the swimming pool and reduce the maintenance effort. The epoxy layer will not strengthen the structure, prevent cracking of the underlying surfaceor necessarily stop leaks. The underlying fibreglass lining or plaster surface must be strong, hard and solid to support the paint layer. Tap the plasteredpool plaster surface to ensure that there are no brittleness or pieces breaking loose. Such areas should be repaired before applying the epoxy paint. Fibreglass linings should be repaired if there are cracks or bubbles using a proper fibreglass repair kit.
On plastered pools, check for wet spots penetrating through the structure from outside the swimming pool due to high water tables, porosity, cavities or cracks in the concrete shell. Do not apply the paint on a damp/wet surface or damp spots. Wet spots can be drilled or grinded open to allow water to freely flow into the swimming pool until the spot becomes completely dry. This can take several days or even longer. Water inflow problems can in some cases be stopped using products availablefrom or similar products.
Inspect the pool structure for osmotic pressure from outside
On a small percentage of swimming pools, we have found that slow penetrating osmoticwater pressure from outside the swimming pool may result in small bubbles forming in the coating afterwards. To prevent this, test for potential osmotic pressure.See our online help videos available at
Grind a cross-hatched pattern (1-2cm deep) through the marblite layer or plaster down to the concrete layer (+/- 5cm x 5cm area).Chip the area out to create an inspection hole. This can be done preferably on the vertical side of the steps and at the bottom of the deep end. Test with fingers and visual inspection for dampness inside the structure. If dampness is detected, treat the pool surface with a water barrier like PCT56 water repellentat least a day before applying the epoxy paint. PCT56 can be ordered from us or is available at certain hardware outlets. The spread rate for PCT56 is +/- 7-8m² /L. PCT56 can be sprayed onto the surface with normal household sprayer nozzles or using a pesticide garden sprayer pump or rollers. Sand the surface slightly the next day with a P80 sandpaper before applying the epoxy primer layer. Inspection holes can be filled up again with Underwater Pool Patching, cement plaster or marblite. Use “PCT56” as a search term on Google Search for more information.
Newly plastered surfaces
New swimming pools constructed with concrete and cement plaster, should be treated with PCT56water barrier as a standard precaution. When using a cement plaster it is further recommended to us a bonding liquid like Sika1or similar with the plaster water.
Newly plastered marblite surfaces should not be over coated with an epoxy product but should rather be used for 6 months to allow the release of dioxide gasses formed when marblite comes in contact with moisture.
IMPROTANT NOTES and PREPARATION OF THE POOL SURFACE
The preparation of the pool surface is an important part of the process. Any moisture, dirt or acid residue left on the surface during the application of the product will have a degrading effect on the final finish. DO NOT ACID-WASH the pool beforehand. If an acid-wash was performed, the surface should be thoroughly neutralized with bicarbonate soda and water mix, do this process twice using splash-brushes and washing the neutralizer off with water,applying sufficient pressure to deep-clean the surface. Inherent acid in the surface will migrate into the coating while curing and might cause discolouring after a while.
- Empty the pool. Electrical or petrol pumps can be hired from most tool hire companies like Talisman, Toolhire, and Hire Quip etc. Ask for a long outlet pipe in order to drain the water into the street’s storm water drains and preferably not into the complex our house municipal drains.
- To clean mosaic tiles, apply iKleen7 (undiluted) with squirt nozzle or sponge, leave for 10 minutes to soak. Scrub the tiles with rough scrubbing spongesand water. (iKleen7 is available from Pool Solutions and is non-toxic and safe on the skin). Visit for photos and more information on this product.
- For grind-cleaningof the tiles to remove heavy calcium layers,P36,180mm fibre grinding discs or“Wire Wheel 50 x 12” or “Flap wheel sander 60 x 40mm paint remover disc”, (Disc - Sanding 115mm Flap 80, may also be used). These discs are mounted on an angle grinder orelectric drill to remove dirt from heavily stained tiles. 3 to 4 of these discs will be needed for a normal size pool. (Available from hardware stores). It is advisable to first test these grinding wheels on a small portion of the tiles. Also watch the online video.
NB!It is essential that the tiles be scrubbed with water to remove all chemicals from the tiles. Acid and chemicals may contaminate the epoxy and cause yellowstaining of the newly applied epoxy layer.
4Tap the whole pool surface to check for marble plaster that is breaking loose. Hollow sounds are acceptable if the marble plaster is thick, strong and does not show movement or cracking.
5Chip out the loose plaster, fill and repair. For small repairs, use Underwater Pool Patch(from Cemcrete), also available from Pool Solutions or other swimming pool outlets.Mix the Pool Patch cement powder with water to obtain a workable paste. Fill the holes or cracks using a putty knife. When dry, sand or grind down to a smooth and levelfinish.Underwater Pool Patch will be dry within a few hoursor can even be dried quicker using a heat gun or hair dryer.
6Large resurfacing of a damaged pool surface can be done with normal cement plaster, the plaster water should be mixed in 10:1 ratio with a bonding liquid like Sika1 (available from most hardware stores).
7Scourge the whole pool with P16 flexible fibre discs mounted on a 230mm angle grinders fitted with M14 flexible rubber backing discsuntil green algae, loose or brittle plaster and dirt are removed. (P16 flexible fibre discsand M14 Rubber Backing discsare available from Pool Solutions, P16 discs, manufactured by Lucas Abrasives are the correct type.) Black algae and dried algae that has penetrated deep into the surface and has fossilized over time, becoming part of plaster surface does not need to be removed or grinded out completely, it can be painted over if these spots are hard and solid. The main idea of the grinding process is to remove loose green algae or material and chemicals.
8Alternatively if the pool offers a very solid and hard surface, a high-pressurewasher with at least 200KPa pressure capability can be used to clean the pool surface instead of grinding. The high-pressure washer equipped with a rotating-pencil-nozzle works best. High-pressure-wash the pool at least twice at 4-6cm distance from the surface. The pool must be completely dry before applying the first Primer coat. If the marble plaster cannot withstand this pressure and form uneven hollow spots, rather grind the pool surface as described above.
9After grinding, remove the dust by broom and scoop and wipe the surface clean with damp cloth.
10If wet spots appear from the outside of the pool and doesn’t dry after a day, drill a hole through the pool structure to drain the water table. Fix later withUnderwater Pool Patching. If reverse osmosis is suspected due to high water tables around the pool, it is strongly advisable to treat the pool surface with a damp sealer like PCT56 (available from Pool Solutions and some hardware stores). This will help to prevent blistering at a later stage due to excessive water pressure from the outside.
11Remove all water from the weir. Blow hard into the outlet-nozzles to remove water from the pipes.
TIP: To prevent dripping from the inlet jets of the pool, create ”plugs” using cloth bundled into a small plastic bag. Smear the plastic bag with silicon sealant on the outside and push tightly into the pipes after removing the jet nozzles. Alternatively use balloonsstretched over the nozzle heads to catch dripping water. Keep an eye on balloons that may be filling up.
12New cement-plastered pools(or concrete) must have a hard and solid finish. Brittle cement surfaces may break loose with the epoxy coat later. It is recommended that Sika1 or a similar bonding liquid product be mixed with the water when mixing cement-plaster. New concrete structured pools must dry for the industry recommended drying time specified for concrete, (28 days) before painting.
13On newly cement plastered pools, test the moisture content of the substrate by placing a clear plastic sheet (1m x 1m) on the floor of the pool in a sunny pot and tape the edges with masking tape. If no moist or dampness has formed underneath the plastic after two days, it is an indication that the surface might be dry enough for the paint process.
14Previously painted surfaces. Pool Solutions’ epoxy coatings can be over-coated again by sanding the previous paint layer using p60 sandpaper to remove any loose paint dust or brittleness. If the substrate surface is not exposed, only two or three topcoat layers may be re-applied. Alternatively apply primer again in areas where the cement plaster is exposed. Paint layers of unknown origin should rather be removed as much as possible by grinding using Semiflex Paint Removal discs (available from Pool Solutions).
15Donot paint on the mosaic tiles or between the tiles. A paintbrush can be used paint alongthe bottom tile edge and in sharp corners. For the rest of the surface, MOWHAIR rollerscan be used. Short-pile rollers intended for enamel paints work best with this thick type of epoxy resins, sheepskin rollers tend to tear and leave particles behind. Paint relatively fast with the rollers while the epoxy paint is still wet as it becomes more sticky with time and can start to tear fibres from the rollers. Experienced painters may choose to paint without applying masking tapealong patterns and tiles and using the rollers or brushes to neatly paint along the edges. Mowhair type Rollers are disposed of after each layer and you will need a new set of rollers for each layer. Use the same roller handle and use separate roller refills for each layer.Masking tape if used, should be removed directly after painting each layer while the product is still damp.
16The POT-LIFE of the mixed epoxy product may vary between 15 min(very warm days) and 60 min (cold days) while still in the container. The higher the ambient temperatures, the shorter the pot life. The product mix should be applied within this time span. Use a second helper to do the applications by brush while another is rolling the rest of the surface to save time.NB! Mix only limited amounts (e.g.2L) at a time to ensure that the amount of mixed product is utilized before end of pot-life, especially during hot conditions. All unmixed productsshouldbe kept cool and in the shade. In very hot conditionsabove 30°C, the A and B component containers can be kept in a larger container with cold water or ice to help prolong pot-life if necessary, although this is normally not necessary. Under very hot conditionspaint early in the morning while the pool surface is still cool. During application DO NOT leave the paint bucket or tray on the surface, the heat from the surface will shorten the pot life or trigger the gelling process.