Duncan Graham BVSc BSc (Hons)

ANIMAL DERMATOLOGY NZ

12 Poynters Crescent NELSON

GST NO 79-319-015

Medicated Shampooing – Tips for Dog and Cat Owners

  1. Shampoo tip for cats ……..don’t
  2. For dogs….set yourself up. Shampooing is a therapeutic tool, and as many skin conditions need long term treatment, even life-long, you need to make it easy to do. For small dogs, make a rack for them to stand on in the laundry tub or bath. With larger dogs, it’s often easiest to get them into the shower with you, although it is harder to leave medicated shampoos on long enough then. Use a wet towel or non slip mat in the shower or bath to prevent the dog from slipping and panicking. Establish a routine, have everything you need at hand: fresh warm water, first shampoo, medicated shampoo, sponge, rinse jug or bucket, towels, timer and dog treats.
  3. Hot water is not necessary, and indeed it may be harmful. The ideal water temperature is luke warm to cool.
  4. If your dog is matted, work/clip the mat out before the bath as water tends to compact the mats, making them harder to remove.
  5. For dogs with very greasy, dirty conditions, it is often useful to shampoo them first with dishwashing detergent to cut the grease, and break down the surface tension due to the grease. Rinse out the pre-shampoo thoroughly, and then use the medicated shampoo. This technique has the possible disadvantage of stripping the coat of its essential oils.
  6. To make the medicated shampoo go further, you can pre-dilute it 50/50 or even more in a container before using.
  7. Thoroughly wet your animal to the skin, either by pre shampooing or by rinsing before applying the medicated shampoo. The wetter the dog is the easier it is to shampoo.
  8. Use a sponge to apply the shampoo, particularly around the eyes and face. Do concentrate on applying shampoo around the muzzle area, the feet particularly between the toes, and around the anus, as these are often problem areas for bacterial and fungal infection. Sponges make this easier. “Zoom groom” or similar aids in short coated breeds are fantastic to work up a lather.
  9. Use plenty of water during the application process. These are concentrated shampoos and water helps them to lather.
  10. Do leave the shampoo on for five to ten minutes or as directed. Use a timer to tell you when the five or ten minutes are up. This longer contact time is critical to get the most out of your shampoo efforts. Do some treat reinforced obedience work or teach a new trick to make the time seem shorter for both of you. Go for a 10 minute walk. This is good for both of you.
  11. Rinse thoroughly. This is important to avoid contact irritation. It does take time (five minutes or more in long haired dogs) and multiple rinses to get the coat squeaky clean. Rinsing usually takes longer than shampooing. The hair won’t squeak if there is shampoo residue.
  12. Dry thoroughly but gently. Over vigorous rubbing during the bathing or drying process can cause skin infections, especially in short coated dogs. Too vigorous rubbing can produce knots in longer haired coats. It is better to “squeeze dry”.
  13. Use plenty of tasty treats. Dehydrated liver doesn’t go soggy in your pocket.
  14. If the dog’s skin seems irritated by the shampoo, stop and notify your veterinarian or canine dermatologist. Contact sensitivity to certain shampoos has been recorded. If you have a sensitive skin, wear gloves during the shampooing.
  15. Many shampoos have the potential to interfere with the efficiency of the modern flea control products. Do not shampoo directly before or after applying flea treatment.

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