Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
VOLUME 27 / NUMBER 2 / JUNE 2002CONTENTS
Investigations into homogeneity of coir fibresP K Banerjee, R Chattopadhyay & A Guha / 111
Influence of some test parameters on friction in acrylic fibres
K R Salhotra, R V M Gowda & S M Ishtiaque / 117
Twist structure of friction-spun yarns: Part I—Open-end DREF-II yarns
K R Salhotra, R Chattopadhyay, S Dhamija & R C D Kaushik / 122
Low stress behaviour of jet-spun yarn
A Mukhopadhyay, I C Sharma & Abhishek Saha / 130
Apron slippage in ring frame: Part II—Factors affecting apron slippage and their effect on yarn quality
A Das, P Yadav & S M Ishtiaque / 135
Influence of yarn structure, sizing ingredients and type of sizing on properties and performance of sized yarns: Part II—A comparative study of sized yarn performance for ring- and rotor- spun cotton yarns
A K Sengupta, P Pratihar, P D Kimothi, S Vernekar & M M Alamgir Sayeed / 142
Influence of yarn structure, sizing ingredients and type of sizing on properties and performance of sized yarns : Part III – A study of attrition during weaving for air-jet, ring and rotor yarns on a modern high speed weaving machine
A K Sengupta, P Pratihar, P D Kimothi , S Vernekar & M M Alamgir Sayeed / 149
Properties of polyester/ wool parent and air-jet textured yarns and their fabrics
V K Kothari & S K Bari / 156
Improvement in surface-related properties of poly(ethylene terephthalate)/cotton fabrics by glow-discharge treatment
T Öktem, N Seventekin, H Ayhan & E Pişkin / 161
Crease-resistant finishing of jute fabric using polycarboxylic acids
A Bagchi & S G Saha / 166
Weighting of silk by graft copolymerization technique
S R Karmakar, S Mandal, K Das, D Sadhukhan, S Ghosh & R Manna / 171
Alternative reducing system for dyeing of cotton with sulphur dyes
R B Chavan & Shirishkumar Vhanbatte / 179
Synthesis of substituted benzyl ethers and their moth proofing activity against wool pest Anthrenus flavipes Le Conte
Chandrashekhar Waman Acharya & Vidhya Joshi / 184
Thermal studies on cellulose cyclohexenephosphonate in air
J B Dahiya & Sushila / 189
Short Communication
Property modification of Antheraea assama silk fibre through graft copolymerizationA M Das, C N Saikia & S Hussain / 194
Review Article
Solvent-induced modifications in poly(ethylene terephthalate) structure, properties and dyeability
D Chidambaram, R Venkatraj & P Manisankar / 199Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 111-116
Investigations into homogeneity of coir fibres
P K Banerjee, R Chattopadhyay & A Guha
Experimental investigations on certain dimensional and mechanical properties of retted coir fibres reveal a very broad spectrum. The fibres measuring less than 150 mm in length appear very similar in terms of all the properties investigated and hence it is suggested that these fibres should be targeted for segregation and softening in order to design new processes and products¾among others the very promising coir-based geotextiles¾for coir industry.
Keywords: Coir fibre, Geotextiles
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 117-121
Influence of some test parameters on friction in acrylic fibres
K R Salhotra, R V M Gowda & S M Ishtiaque
The influence of operational factors on friction in acrylic fibres of 38 mm and 1.65 dtex has been studied. The increase in normal force decreases the coefficient of friction and results in a more pronounced stick-slip effect. The values for friction indices 'a' and 'n' in the equation F=aNn are found to be 0.71 and 0.90 respectively. The sliding speed has a great influence on the smoothness of fibre movement. The stick-slip effect is more pronounced at slow sliding speeds and progressively reduces at higher speeds with the result that the difference 'ms- md ' becomes smaller. The decrease in the area of contact (fringe width) decreases the coefficient of friction.
Keywords: Acrylic fibre, Coefficient of friction, Frictional force, Sliding speed
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 122-129
Twist structure of friction-spun yarns: Part I – Open-end DREF-II yarns
K R Salhotra , R Chattopadhyay, S Dhamija & R C D Kaushik
The twist structure of friction-spun yarns has been explored through the development of an accurate method of twist measurement. It has been found that the optical method, based on the measurement of fibre helix angle and helix diameter through the well-known tracer fibre technique, is the most accurate technique for measuring twist. The twist values obtained by this method have been found to correlate well with those given by other methods of twist testing. Corresponding correlation coefficients and the regression equations have also been derived. The position of the integrating fibres along the length of the fibre assembly zone does not influence the amount of twist inserted in open-end DREF-II yarn. The level of twist is determined by the fibre and process parameters under which the yarn is spun. Twist level drops with the increase in fibre length from 25 mm to 44 mm but shows a slight increase thereafter. The coarser yarns show lower twist than the finer ones. The use of coarser fibres results in lower amount of twist in the yarn while an increase in suction pressure increases it.
Keywords : DREF-II yarns, Friction-spun yarns, Tracer fibre technique, Yarn twist
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 130-134
Low stress behaviour of jet-spun yarn
A Mukhopadhyay, I C Sharma & Abhishek Saha
The influence of first nozzle pressure, gauge length, main draft and condenser width on the initial modulus and flexural rigidity of polyester and viscose yarns has been studied using the Box-Behnken experimental design. The interaction effect among the process variables has been analyzed. It is observed that the initial modulus and flexural rigidity of jet-spun yarn increase with the increase in first nozzle pressure, gauge length and condenser width individually when the other variables are set at lower levels. However, the above yarn characteristics may decrease with the change of one variable at a time keeping the other variables at higher levels. The changes in yarn flexural rigidity with the process variables can be predicted from the yarn initial modulus.
Keywords: Air-jet spinning, Flexural rigidity, Initial modulus, Polyester yarn, Viscose yarn, Yarn properties
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 135-141
Apron slippage in ring frame : Part II¾Factors affecting apron slippage and their effect on yarn quality
A Das, P Yadav & S M Ishtiaque
The effect of various roving and drafting parameters like roving hank, roving TM, top arm pressure, spacer size and break draft on apron slippage has been studied. It is observed that both bottom apron slippage and apron-to-apron slippage change with the change in the above parameters. With the change in these parameters, when the apron slippage increases the yarn quality in general deteriorates and vice versa.
Keywords: Apron slippage, Break draft, Roving TM, Spacer size, Top arm pressure
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 142-148
Influence of yarn structure, sizing ingredients and type of sizing on properties and performance of sized yarns: Part II¾A comparative study of sized yarn performance for ring- and rotor-spun cotton yarns
A K Sengupta, P Pratihar , P D Kimothi , S Vernekar & M M Alamgir Sayeed
A comparative study on influence of structural differences of ring- and rotor-spun cotton yarns on the process of sizing and the performance of sized yarns against abrasion has been carried out using the 6s and 16s ring and rotor yarns sized with cold and hot brand PVA at different concentrations (9%, 7% and 5%) and drying rates (70°C and 140°C). It is observed that, in general, the abrasion resistance of rotor yarns is better than that of ring yarns. The rotor yarns give better abrasion resistance at 140°C because the higher temperature reduces size migration from inside to surface of the yarn, thereby ensuring more uniform deposition of size along the cross-section of the yarn. A better size distribution reinforces the open structure of rotor yarns and improves cohesion.
Keywords: Cotton, Ring yarn, Rotor yarn, Sizing, Yarn structure
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 149-155
Influence of yarn structure, sizing ingredients and type of sizing on properties and performance of sized yarns: Part III – A study of attrition during weaving for air-jet, ring and rotor yarns on a modern high speed weaving machine
A K Sengupta, P Pratihar , P D Kimothi, S Vernekar & M M Alamgir Sayeed
How best the yarns of a given spinning system can be sized with optimum cost to overcome attritive forces acting on warp yarns during weaving has been studied. Polyester/viscose (70:30) yarns (30s) obtained from the three spinning systems, viz. air-jet, ring and rotor, were sized with cold brand PVA and tested for abrasion and tensile properties. Using these yarns in warp, a plain weave fabric was woven on a Dornier Rapier loom. The yarns were then unravelled from the fabric and tested for the abrasion and tensile properties. It is observed that among the ring, rotor and air-jet yarns, the excellent abrasion resistance is obtained with air-jet yarn at higher size concentration and slow rate of drying. This is because at higher concentration there is good size film formation on the yarn surface and at slow rate of drying more outward size migration takes place, resulting in better size encapsulation. An air-jet yarn whose strength properties are derived from the tightness and compression of the surface wrappings is, therefore, protected from the abrasion forces, caused during weaving, by this size film for a longer duration.
Keywords: Air-jet yarn, Ring yarn, Rotor yarn, Sizing, Weaving
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 156-160
Properties of polyester/wool parent and airjet textured yarns and their fabrics
V K Kothari & S K Bari
Airjet texturing of polyester/wool blended spun yarn has been carried out and woven and knitted fabrics have been produced using parent and textured yarns. The properties of parent and textured yarns and of the fabrics produced using parent and textured yarns have been compared. It is observed that the yarn bulk increases while the tensile and evenness properties become inferior on airjet texturing. The textured yarn fabrics have lower air permeability, higher thermal resistance, higher abrasion resistance and inferior strength-related properties as compared to the parent yarn fabrics. Airjet textured polyester/wool blend spun yarns can be used where higher comfort-related properties are desirable.
Keywords: Air-jet texturing, Fabric properties, Polyester/wool blended yarn, Textured yarn
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 161-165
Improvement in surface-related properties of poly(ethylene terephthalate)/cotton fabrics by glow-discharge treatment
T Öktem, N Seventekin, H Ayhan & E Pişkin
Poly(ethylene terephthalate)/cotton fabrics have been treated in low-temperature plasmas to increase the hydrophilicity and, therefore, to impart soil resistance and to improve dyeability. The fabrics have been treated in glow-discharge apparatus using acrylic acid and water plasmas. Two alternative modifications were applied. The plasma conditions, such as exposure time and discharge power, were varied to control the extent of plasma surface modification in the first approach, while the acrylic acid content and the incubation time were changed in the second approach. It is observed that the glow-discharge treatment significantly improves the wettability of the fabrics. More hydrophilic surfaces are created due to the treatment and, therefore, the dyeability of the fabrics is much better. No significant colour change, neither with repeated washing cycles nor with long period of storage, is observed.
Keywords: Dyeability, Glow-discharge treatment, PET/cotton fabric, Soil resistance, Wettability
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 166-170
Crease-resistant finishing of jute fabric using polycarboxylic acids
A Bagchi & S G Saha
The potentialities of jute fabric to develop wrinkle resistance through crosslinking with polycarboxylic acids, like citric acid and 1,2,3,4-butane tetracarboxylic acid (B T C A), as an alternative to the conventional N-methylol compounds have been studied in the presence of phosphate catalyst by pad-dry-cure technique. It is observed that for jute fabrics, B T C A shows better crease recovery than citric acid at all the concentrations studied. Citric acid finishing may, however, be used in the applications that do not require high crease recovery as it is less expensive. FTIR spectroscopy reveals the formation of ester crosslinks between jute fibre and polycarboxylic acid.
Keywords Butane tetracarboxylic acid, Citric acid, Crease recovery angle, Jute
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 171-178
Weighting of silk by graft copolymerization technique
S R Karmakar, S Mandal, K Das, D Sadhukhan, S Ghosh & R Manna
Wild silk yarns and fabrics have been graft copolymerized with two monomers, namely methyl methacrylate (MMA) and methacrylic acid (MAA), using potassium peroxidisulphate and cerric ammonium sulphate to minimize homopolymer formation. The optimum conditions of grafting have been standardized. The changes in the dyeing behaviour using acid, basic and reactive dyes have also been investigated to understand whether the grafting should be carried out before, after and during dyeing operation. It is observed that the graft copolymerization with MAA and MMA affects the dyeability of silk. The effect on various physical properties of silk fibres grafted before and after dyeing is quite noteworthy. The higher the graft add-on the more is the variation in physical properties. The dyeing followed by grafting using reactive dyes shows favoured properties and is recommended for weighting of silk on industrial scale.
Keywords : Breaking load, Degumming, Drape coefficient, Dyeing, Grafting, Weighting
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 179-183
Alternative reducing system for dyeing of cotton with sulphur dyes
R B Chavan & Shirishkumar Vhanbatte
An attempt has been made to replace sodium sulphide by reducing sugar, obtained by acid hydrolysis of molasses, in dyeing of cotton with sulphur dyes. The results of dyeing using reducing sugar in alkaline condition have been compared with those of the conventional dyeing with sodium sulphide. It is observed that the depth of shade, expressed as K/S value, is deeper in case of dyeing with reducing sugar than in conventional dyeing.