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From: "Kate Johnson" <>
Date: Fri Feb 8, 2002 1:41 pm
Subject: a quick look for clouded in the PA Gazette...
There were too many to look through, 190-some hits, but this was gleaned
from the first 30--
Several pairs of clouded stockings both cotton and wool...I found at least 7
or 8 out of thirty ads looked at:
ITEM #83256
May 28, 1800
The Pennsylvania Gazette
Six Cents Reward.
RAN away from the subscriber, living in Newtown township, Delaware county,
Pennsylvania, on the 18th of this instant, an apprentice lad, named John
Green, near 6 feet high, brown hair, 20 years of age; had on and took with
him, a roram hat, almost new, one red and white gingham coattee, one drab
coloured cloth ditto, one figured cassimere jacket, one muslinet ditto, one
cloth ditto, one pair ribbed velvet overalls, one pair gingham ditto, two
pair Russia sheeting trowsers, two Russia sheeting shirts, one fine ditto,
one pair < clouded> cotton stockings. Whoever apprehends the above
runaway, and brings him home to this master, shall receive the above reward,
but no charges.
THOMAS THOMAS.
5th month 19th, 1800.
ITEM #72704
April 12, 1786
The Pennsylvania Gazette
STOP THE ROGUE.
MARCH 28th, 1786.
LEFT the township of West Caln, Chester county, a certain JOHN PRICE, of
Welch and Dutch extraction; prior to his departure he agreed with me the
subscriber, to serve twelve months for a certain sum of money, of which I
paid him good part in hand, and have not received any satisfaction for the
same; said Price is about forty years of age, six feet high, dark
complexion, curled black hair, thin visage, strait bodied, walks like an
Indian; had on when he went away, a deep blue coat, bound with yellow silk
lace, a rose upon each hip of the same; neither button or button-holes, grey
waistcoat and trowsers, made of coating, one pair of corduroy breeches, with
silk knee bands, two pair of stockings, one pair ribbed, the other <
clouded> , two pair of shoes, one pair new the other old, two hats, one
beaver, the other old (Quality not known) any person or persons apprehending
and bringing said rogue to the subscriber, living in the township and county
abovesaid, shall have Four Dollars Reward, and all reasonable charges paid
by me, and this shall be their sufficient warrant for and in so doing JOHN
McCULAGH.
------
----
Several clouded nankeen--here are a few examples:
ITEM #82749
April 10, 1799
The Pennsylvania Gazette
Four Dollars Reward.
RAN away from the subscriber, living in Upper Dublin township, Montgomery
county, on the evening of the 7th inst. an indented servant boy, named JOHN
CANE, aged 17 years, supposed to be about 5 feet 6 or 7 inches high, he is
very much marked with the small-pox, has short light hair, grey eyes, one
remarkable crooked leg, which occasions him to have a very clumsy gait; had
on and took with him when he went away, a brown cloth coat, a pair of plain
nankeen trowsers, a < clouded> nankeen coat, wool hat, a pair of buckskin
breeches, and a new pair of shoes. Whoever takes up and secures said
runaway, so that the subscriber may get him again, shall be entitled to the
above reward, and reasonable charges if brought home.
JOHN JARRET.
4th mo. 8th, 1799.
ITEM #81550
December 14, 1796
The Pennsylvania Gazette
Seven Cents Reward.
RAN AWAY from the subscriber, on the 20th of November, an apprentice boy, by
trade a Miller, named JOHN TANNER, between 19 and 20 years of age, about 5
feet 7 or 8 inches high, light hair; had on, when he went away, a new coat,
jacket and trowsers, all of < clouded> nankeen, and took with him a light
coloured broad-cloath coat, a striped jean jacket, and a mixed red and blue
broad-cloth jacket, two pair of trowsers, one striped purple and yellow, the
other fulled lindsey, three shirts, one fine, a fur hat bound with velvet,
two pair of yarn stockings, and a pair of new shoes, and other cloaths.
Whoever takes up said apprentice, and will bring him home, so that his
master may get him again, shall have the above reward, but no charges paid,
by
BENJAMIN CHAPMAN.
Wrightstown, Nov. 28, 1796.
ITEM #81372
September 7, 1796
The Pennsylvania Gazette
Twenty Dollars Reward.
RAN away from the subscriber, the 27th of this inst. an indented servant
man, named JACOB PHASKEL, about 18 years of age, 5 feet 7 inches high,
tolerably well set, long black hair, tied with a black thick set ribbon,
dark eyes and eye brows, his forehead bold, his visage long, and his face
full of small red pimples. He took with him a square crown castor hat, about
half worn, two tow and flax shirts, and four pair of trowsers, one pair of
new nankeen trowsers, that tied at the ancles, with a rip in the upper part
of the thigh, and vest of the same, buff colour, one pair of striped lye
coloured flag trowsers, a scarlet vest with fustian back, two waistcoats,
and a < clouded> nankeen and a fustian coat, a pair of old shoes newly
patched and soaled, and had remarkable long great toes. Whoever secures said
servant in any gaol, or brings him home to his said master, shall have the
above reward, and all reasonable charges, paid by
MOSES QUINBY.
Amwell township, Hunterdon county,
New-Jersey, 9 mo. 6th, 1796.
ITEM #81079
April 13, 1796
The Pennsylvania Gazette
Joseph & Jesse Sharpless,
No. 32, South Third street,
Have received per the Hamburgh packet, and
have for sale,
A Variety of MERCHANDIZE, consisting of callicoes, furniture ditto,
dimities, fustians, wide and narrow < clouded> and striped nankeens,
checks, ginghams, elegant vest patterns of Camel's hair, muslinet and
Marseilles, hosiery, cassimers, jeans, superfine and second cloths,
callimancoes, spinnings, moreens, Irish linens, and dry goods in general;
also a general assortment of saddlery and saddler's tools. They expect a
large additional supply of dry goods by the first vessels, which they will
sell on reasonable terms for cash, or the usual credit.
3d month, 29th, 1796.
N.B. Also a number of elegant counterpanes and Merseilles bed quilts.
---
clouded green coat:
ITEM #80819
December 9, 1795
The Pennsylvania Gazette
Six Cents Reward.
RAN away, on the 24th of September last, from the subscriber, near
Swedesborough, Woolwich township, Gloucester county, an apprentice lad,
named William Elliott, about five feet ten inches high, stout built, long
black hair, and very talkative, had on, and took with him, a < clouded>
green coat, light coloured surtout, with metal buttons, and high crown hat.
Any person securing said run away, so that his master may get him again,
shall have the above reward, but no charges, paid by
SAMUEL OGDEN.
---
Whoa! A clouded KNIT jacket...
ITEM #71936
August 24, 1785
The Pennsylvania Gazette
TWELVE DOLLARS Reward.
RAN away, last night, from the subscriber, a servant man, named JOHN
HAGENBOOK, a German, a taylor by trade; he is 21 years of age, 5 feet 5
inches high, fresh coloured, much pitted with the small pox, and has black
hair which he wears cued; had on an orange coloured coat of fine cloth, a <
clouded> knit jacket, nankeen breeches, new fine shirt, white cotton
stockings, good calf-skin shoes, plated shoe and knee-buckles, and a castor
hat. Whoever takes up and secures said servant in any goal, or delivers him
to the subscriber, shall have the above reward, and reasonable charges, paid
by ANDREW HERTZOG.
N.B. A certain Henry Voelker went off with the above servant; he is a free
man, a taylor by trade, and persuaded the servant to go with him. August 22,
1785.
------
From: Kate Emerson <>
Date: Mon Jan 14, 2002 8:31 am
Subject: Pa German clogs and stockings
Dear liste,
As always I am slightly behind all the postings so please forgive me if I am redundant. There is a description of Pennsylvania German women around Womelsdorf "The females in their short gowns, long, heavily ribbed stockings, or (if in summer) bare limbs, (and) heavy wooden shoes." Whether those heavy wooden shoes are clogs or not..... A pair was found in Ephrata Cloisters some years back when they were doing restoration. As I recall they had wooden soles and cloth tops. Many times iron "shoes" were added to the bottom is minimize wear. Usually these were located on the toes and the back of the heels. They look a lot like little horse shoes. Many English farmers wore clogs according to a paper written a number of years back in Costume. They weren't "just" continental European footwear.
mit freundlichen Gruessen,
KateE
------
From: Diana Wigham <>
Date: Wed Mar 28, 2001 6:58 pm
Subject: Re: [18cWoman] " three black Dutch laced caps?"
List,
German (as we call it today) caps, and presumably Dutch since they are close geograpically, were black caps. That is a traditional dress with them. if anyone wants specifics, I can dig into the file system (or is lack of file system? <gg>) and find sources.
Diana Wigham
former Hessian campfollower
------
From:
Date: Sat Feb 17, 2001 12:13 pm
Subject: dutch clothing
Dear List,
I have had an interest in dutch
clothing in the colonies (early
to mid 18th century) for sometime,
but am finding it next to
impossible to find books on the
subject. I found books on dutch
folk
costumes from the 19th and early
20th cent.,but nothing about folk
clothing or high fashion in the
18th. I searched our archives and
found I am a little late on this
subject, but I have many questions
that remain unanswered. I do not
read Dutch or German, but if I did,
it sounds as if the book that was
earlier recommended "Sits Oost
Weist Reldiesim Textiel" would be a good read. I did find wonderful
advise on Dutch textiles in our archives! If any one has since found
more information on Dutch clothing or a new resource...PLEASE share
it with me!
I would like to know more about the cut of the clothes and caps.
I realize this might depend on the area one is from in the
Netherlands. I have the names of the towns in the Netherlands inwhich
my family lived if this would help, Amsterdam (book sellers),
Zaandam, Beverwijk, Leiden, Dortrecht, Leeiwarden, and Alphen aan den
Rijn. I may have to choose an area to focus on if I find information
on a particular place. Unfortunately, I am not sure of their social
status. I do know that one of the ancestors in my geneolgy died in
the East Indies. I do not know what his particlar job was (low or
high position). How long would it be before one adopted more english
modes of dress in the colonies? My ancestors lived in Kent Co., DE
and Germantown, PA and a few were in NY.
I would really like to portray one of my own ancestors
someday...possibly during the War for Independence or earlier. If
anyone is familiar with this subject or is now portraying a dutch
woman, please share your knowledge! Thank you for any information you
can offer!
Yours in Scholarship,
Kelly
------
From:
Date: Sun Feb 18, 2001 6:02 am
Subject: Re: dutch clothing
Hi, Kelly,
Are you referring to Dutch as in
Holland or Dutch as in German? The
reason I ask is because you
indicate your ancestors were
located in
Germantown and in Delaware, as well
as New York. The Germantown
settlers were Krefelders from
Germany. The European origin of the
New
York settlers was Dutch from
Holland with some Palatinate
Germans and
French Hugenots.
Somewhere in my house I have a
great little book which I think is
called _Clothing the Colonists_ which I received from a New York
historical society/house museum. I'll dig around and see if I can
find it or the review I did for the ALHFAM Historic Clothing
Newsletter a few years ago. Its focus is 17th century New Amsterdam
and relies mostly on paintings by Jan Steen and other 17th century
artists. Dutch common dress had a definite visual identity that
differed from that of the Germans, English, and French that, to my
mind, expressed their national confidence and self-satisfaction, as
well as a joy for life that doesn't seem to come through in the
artwork of other European countries. Dutch artists are noted for their
precision and accuracy, so what you see is what it was.
By the late 1660s, New Amsterdam and Delaware (which had been captured
from the Swedes in 1654) were under English control, so by the early
18th century Dutch clothing would reflect more of an English
influence. Germans, probably because they settled in the hinterlands
and had less direct contact politically or socially with the English,
retained much of regional appearance.
Interestingly, as there are so few paintings in the middle 1600s of
English common dress, we must turn to Great Britain's trade ally (and
sometime enemy) in Holland to see what was being worn in England
during the Commonwealth. The clothing is very similar, but the few
English paintings of ordinary people that exist show clearly a much
less fun-loving lot.
Hope that this helps a little bit.
Karen Greim Mullian
------
From: Kate Emerson <>
Date: Fri Dec 8, 2000 11:40 am
Subject: RE: [18cWoman] Petticoats with borders
At 11:03 08.12.2000 -0500, you
wrote:
>Miller's images are early to mid
19th century aren't they? He was
born in
>1796.
>
Yes, but you see it in earlier
artists as well. His are the best
known and
the most easily available to us
(you the reader) because of Ellen's
book
and the publication of some of his
pictures by the York County
Historical
Society. ... Okay I'll do it. Here
is a quote from my (untidy)Tidy
paper.
"Sources occasionally display a band around the petticoat hem. One such
illustration is found on a German sampler in the collections of Colonial
Williamsburg. This sampler, dated 1734, depicts a female figure wearing a
brown and blue vertically striped petticoat with a brown band on the
bottom. Another embroidered sampler dated 1733 shows a woman in a st4riped
petticoat with a band. She wears a light gold jacket or bedgown over a
green and white striped petticoat with a light blue band above a darker
one. The white of the petticoat is the Unembroidered backing linen. This
sampler is attributed to Anna Wagner, a Schwenkfelder widow, and is
initialed "ACCW". It was brought to Montgomery County PA in 1737 from
Saxony.
Karl Becker shows 18th Centrury illustrations of Palatine farm women in
short petticoats with bands at the hem and comments "The heavily pleated
petticoat... is covered with stripes of ribbons" (Becker __Die
Volkstrachten der Pfaltz_ pp. 49, 25, 28, 45, & 47) Lewis Miller drew
bands or ribbon trim, not tucks, on the bottom edge of some petticoats.
This illustrations support Mittelberger's statement "They wear handsomely
sewed petticoats trimmed with ribbon.
Protective cording or heavy braid are found on many 19th Century dresses
to protect them from abrasion. It is possible that these 18th Century
bands did double duty, being both decorative and utilitarian. The bands
are infrequently seen on 18th Century English petticoats; it seems to be a
Germanic fashion. Perhaps Margaret Keller was referring to a short banded
petticoat on August 4, 1737 when she willed her goddaughter "a petticoat
made in the german fashion". What was the German Fashion? Evidence
suggests a short, striped petticoat with bands at the bottom."
Are you a little happier now? :)
KateE
------
From: Kate Emerson <>
Date: Fri Dec 8, 2000 7:15 am
Subject: Re: [18cWoman] Petticoats with borders
Dear Mara,
I have found references to
Pennsylvania Germans having
petticoats with
borders/borders. If you look
closely at Lewis Millers painting
what Ellen
Gehret suggested was a tuck IMHO is
a border. Sometimes there is only
one
at the bottom edge or up an inch or
so. Sometimes two or three tucks
are
shown. (The tucks in Millers work
shows better when seen in real
life.)
Other paintings also show this but
my papers and notes are somewhere under
Christmas junk right now and the cat is asleep on my lap and Every One
Knows that you _Never_ Move a Cat! There are also references to bands on
petticoats "made in the German Fashion" in Lancaster County Wills. And
speaking of Dear Ellen Gehret, God love her for her early ground breaking
research _But_what she shows in her book _Rural_Pennsylvania Clothing _as a
banded petticoat is a tucked 19th Century petticoat worn UNDER a gown.
You all have probably discussed this before/already but I just couldn't
help my self in replying. :D
Yours
KateE
>Hm... I've been wondering if one ever sees petticoats in the American
>colonial context with a strip of tape or something sewn on as a band,
>a few inches above the hem, as one sees occasionally in European
>pictures. How would one search for that?
>Regards,
>Mara
------
From: Kate Emerson <>
Date: Thu Oct 19, 2000 6:25 am
Subject: pesky, plagueing Palatine Krauts
Dear Nora and Gang,
In response to your question about
those pesky, plaguing, Palatines
....
Dear List,
>...... I am descended from the
Palatine Germans who settled in the
Mohawk
>Valley area of New York. I have
read that I need to do some
research on
> the ethnic groups that lived in
my area and such...but where do I
find this