Study Notes Procedures
Chapter 18: Chemical Texture Services
Mini Procedure - Preliminary Test Curls
Preliminary test curls are performed by rodding one parting of hair in three different areas of the head: the top, side, and nape. The procedure for performing preliminary test curls is as follows:
1. Wrap one tool in three different areas of the head (top, side, nape).
2. Wrap a cotton coil around each tool.
3. Apply waving lotion.
4. Set a timer and process according to manufacturer’s directions.
5. Check each subsection frequently for proper curl development by unwinding the hair about 1 ½ turns of the rod.
6. Curl development is complete when a firm S is formed.
7. Rinse with warm water and neutralize. Do not proceed with the perm if the test curls are damaged or over-processed. If the test curls are satisfactory, proceed with the perm, but avoid re-perming the test curl partings.
Procedure 18-1 – Permanent Waving
Preparation
1. Wash your hands.
2. Conduct client consultation.
3. Perform hair and scalp analysis.
4. Select and arrange required materials.
5. Drape client for a shampoo.
6. Shampoo client’s hair.
Preliminary test curl
1. Shampoo the hair and towel it dry.
2. Following the perm directions, wrap two or three rods in the most delicate or resistant areas of the hair.
3. Wrap a coil of cotton around each rod.
4. Wearing gloves, apply the waving lotion to the wrapped curls, being very careful not to allow the waving lotion to come in contact with unwrapped hair.
5. Set a timer and process the hair according to the perm directions.
6. Check curl formation frequently.
Procedure
1. If hair is long and a shorter cut is desired, it may be cut after the shampoo. If hair is short, cut after the permanent.
2. Section and block (subsection) the hair. Start rodding from the crown to the nape in the back to create a center panel, or from the crown forward across the top to front section. Use either panel of rodded hair as a guide for subsequent rod placement. Once the center back panel is rodded, rod the back side panels and then the sides.
3. Apply protective cream and cotton strips around the client’s hairline.
4. Apply the permanent waving solution as recommended by the manufacturer. If using a cold wave, check wave formation immediately after saturating the hair with waving solution. Take frequent test curls on different areas of the head throughout the recommended processing time.
5. Process the hair for the required time. If rewetting the curls is necessary, apply the solution in the same order followed originally. Protect the client with fresh protective cotton strips around the hairline and neck.
6. When the curls have processed sufficiently, rinse out the waving solution thoroughly. Use gentle water pressure and a tepid water temperature, unless the manufacturer’s directions state otherwise.
7. Towel blot excess moisture from the hair wound on rods. Do not rock or roll the rods while blotting. The hair is in a softened state and any such movement may cause hair breakage. Follow towel blot with paper towel blotting to remove residual moisture.
8. Apply neutralizer and process. Follow manufacturer’s neutralization instructions.
9. Unwind the rods and remove them carefully (depending on manufacturer’s directions).
10. Apply remaining neutralizer and work through the hair with your hands.
11. Rinse hair thoroughly.
12. Towel dry and style the hair as desired.
Cleanup and Disinfection
1. Clean and disinfect tools and implements (including rods).
2. Sanitize chair and workstation.
3. Dispose of towels and paper goods.
4. Sweep floor if necessary.
5. Wash your hands.
Procedure 18-2 – Reformation Curl
Preparation
1. Wash your hands.
2. Conduct client consultation.
3. Perform hair and scalp analysis.
4. Select and arrange required materials.
5. Drape client for a chemical service.
Procedure
1. Part the hair into four sections from the center of the front hairline to the nape, and from ear to ear. Clip hair out of the way.
2. Apply protective base cream around the hairline and tops of the ears.
3. Wear gloves. Part off 1/4- to 1/2-inch partings and apply the rearranger 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the scalp on the top and underside of the parting. The rearranger may be applied with a brush, applicator bottle, or the back of a comb.
4. Continue applying the rearranger until all the sections have been covered.
5. Use the back of the comb or fingers to smooth and gently pull the hair partings into a more relaxed curl formation.
6. Process according to the manufacturer’s directions and rinse thoroughly.
7. Part the hair into panels in preparation for rodding. Use the length of the rod to measure for the width of the panels.
8. Apply and distribute the booster to the first panel and rod the hair.
9. Continue wrapping and rodding the remaining panels in the same manner.
10. Place a cotton coil around the hairline; apply extra booster to each curl as necessary for even saturation.
11. If a plastic cap is used, punch a few holes in it to release excess heat. Position the rim of the cap over the cotton coil so that the cap does not touch the client’s skin.
12. Check cotton and towels. If saturated, replace them.
13. Process according to manufacturer’s directions. Most processing takes less than 20 minutes at room temperature.
14. Check for proper curl development.
15. When processing is complete, rinse thoroughly for at least five minutes. Towel blot each rod to remove excess moisture.
16. Apply the neutralizer, making sure that each rod is saturated. Set the timer and neutralize according to directions.
17. Remove the rods gently and distribute the remaining neutralizer through the hair ends. Rinse thoroughly. Shampoo and condition according to manufacturer’s directions.
18. Style the hair as desired.
Cleanup and Disinfection
1. Clean and disinfect tools and implements (including rods)
2. Sanitize chair and workstation.
3. Dispose of towels and paper goods.
4. Sweep floor if necessary.
5. Wash your hands.
Mini Procedure – Procedural Reminders for a Chemical Blow-Out
1. Use a wide-tooth comb or pick to comb the hair upward and slightly forward. The hair closest to the scalp gives direction to the hair; therefore, it must be picked upward and outward. Start at the crown and continue until all of the hair has been combed out from the scalp and distributed evenly around the head.
2. Place the client under a hood hairdryer until the hair is dried.
3. Once dried, the hair is ready for shaping. Evenness is very important at this point. The hair length is checked to make sure that the shortest hair is used as the guide for the balance of the head.
4. Cutting should begin at the sides. The hair is evened out around the head with clippers or shears while picking the hair outward from the scalp. The hair should be cut in the direction in which it is to be combed. The object is to achieve a smooth, even cut that is properly contoured. The final cutting should be done only with shears to even out loose or ragged ends.
5. Outline the hairstyle at the sides, around the ears, and in the nape area, using either shears or an outliner. After the hair is cut to the desired style the finishing touches are applied. Fluff the hair slightly with the pick where required and spray lightly to hold the shape.
Mini Procedure – Relaxer Test Procedure
1. Thread a small section of hair through a hole cut in a piece of waxed paper or paper towel.
Do not use a base or cream. Apply relaxer to the hair section and smooth. Process
according to manufacturer’s directions. 2. Thoroughly mist the hair section with water to remove product and blot. Neutralize with
neutralizer or neutralizing shampoo depending on the type of relaxing product used. Check
results and note on client record card. If the hair has been satisfactorily straightened, apply
conditioner or base cream to the strand, isolate it, and proceed with the relaxing treatment
over the remainder of the hair.
Procedure 18-3 – Thio and Hydroxide Relaxers
Preparation
1. Wash your hands.
2. Conduct client consultation.
3. Perform hair and scalp analysis.
4. Select and arrange required materials.
5. Read product directions.
6. Drape client for a chemical service.
7. Note: light shampooing before a thio relaxer is optional
A. Virgin Application Procedure
1. Part the hair into four sections from the center of the front hairline to the nape, and from ear to ear. Secure hair sections with a clip.
2. Apply protective base cream around the hairline and tops of the ears. Take 1/4- to 1/2-inch partings and apply base cream along each parting.
3. Wear gloves. Part off 1/4- to 1/2-inch partings and apply the relaxer 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the scalp on the top and underside of the parting. Do not apply relaxer to the scalp area or porous ends at this time. The relaxer may be applied with a brush, applicator bottle, or the back of a comb.
4. Continue applying the relaxer until all the sections have been covered.
5. Use the back of the comb or fingers to smooth the hair and gently pull the hair partings into a straighter form.
6. Process according to manufacturer’s directions. During the last few minutes of processing; work the relaxer down to the scalp and through the ends of the hair. Carefully comb and smooth all sections.
7. Rinse thoroughly to remove all traces of the relaxer.
B. Retouch Application Procedures
1. Part the hair into four sections from the center of the front hairline to the nape, and from ear to ear. Clip hair out of the way.
2. Apply protective base cream around the hairline and tops of the ears. Take 1/4- to 1/2-inch partings and apply base cream along each parting.
3. Wear gloves. Part off 1/4- to 1/2-inch partings and apply the relaxer 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the scalp on the top and underside of the new growth. Do not apply relaxer to the scalp area at this time. Do not overlap the relaxer onto previously relaxed hair as it may cause breakage. The relaxer may be applied with a brush, applicator bottle, or the back of a comb.
4. Continue applying the relaxer until all the sections have been covered.
5. Use the back of the comb or fingers to smooth and straighten the new growth area.
6. Process according to manufacturer’s directions. During the last few minutes of processing, work the relaxer down to the scalp.
7. Rinse thoroughly to remove all traces of the relaxer.
C. Neutralization Procedures
1. Thio relaxer: Apply normalizing or neutralizing solution and comb it through to the hair ends. Process and rinse thoroughly. Follow manufacturer’s directions for shampooing and conditioning.
2. Hydroxide relaxer: Shampoo at least three times with neutralizing shampoo or
recommended product. Rinse thoroughly and condition according to manufacturer’s directions. Style as desired.
Cleanup and Disinfection
1. Clean and disinfect tools and implements (including rods)
2. Sanitize chair and workstation.
3. Dispose of towels and paper goods.
4. Sweep floor if necessary.
5. Wash your hands.
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